THE HUMBLE potato has been a staple of diets through history, so much so that it is often considered as one of the key causes of the 19th-century population boom in Europe, as it sustained people. Conversely, it was also responsible for the Great Irish Famine of 1845-52 because of crop failure in areas inhabited by the poorer sections of western Ireland. The modest potato, low on genetic diversity and slow to be adopted by European farmers when it was first introduced in 1589, became a necessity in diets, especially of the poor, soon after.
As cuisines evolved and tastes became more sophisticated, the potato, most often associated with peasant communities, found its place in ‘cuisines’ as opposed to just ‘food’. However, more often than not, it played the role of a great side character artist—for instance, ‘meat and potatoes’ became synonymous for a hearty meal. The earliest mention of the potato as part of a meal in India was in the travel writings of author Edward Terry. He mentioned its presence in a banquet hosted in 1675 for English dipomat Sir Thomas Roe. However, the potato was brought to India by two European nations: the Portuguese planted batata along the western coast of India in early 17th century and the British introduced aloo in Bengal around roughly the same time.
Today, the potato’s colonial origins have been forgotten and it is an immensely popular vegetable in Indian cuisines across states. Some time back, the potato got a boost in India when McDonald’s arrived with its world-famous crisp and perfectly seasoned fries. Of course, French fries had been around before the arrival of McDonald’s, but the patent of sorts it has on the preparation of this deceptively simple and pedestrian potato dish sets it apart. I bring it up because, often in conversation amongst foodies, there arises a lament on how others don’t seem to get fries right in quite the way McDonald’s does. Seems like an awful lot of time spent discussing a side dish, but there it is. Historically, the potato has been known to outshine its loftier companions and its allure continues.
Even when one considers a classic preparation of baked potatoes and sour cream with chive topping, its traditional western heritage makes it hard to consider an Indian version. But Jack Po Tato’s, a home-grown Indian quick-service restaurant in New Delhi-NCR, has attempted to do just that: that is, take the very Indian appeal of potatoes—and the jacket potato—and create a culinary experience that caters to desi tastebuds. It’s amazing how right this fresh-off-the-oven brand has got it. For starters, just how much are you willing to pay for a potato, even one that is oversized and comes loaded with delectable toppings? Jack Po Tato’s fixes it around a sensible R79, up and down a little.
The price, I am told by co-owner Mehul Sharma, is important. Potatoes, as far as the perception balloon goes, are not considered fancy, no matter how you dress them. However, the oversized potatoes of Jack Po Tato’s relieve some of the angst. Sharma and his partner made several trips to Shimla and sampled over 40 potato types to pick the right one/size that suits their business. The skin, he tells me, is potassium-rich and heavy on antioxidants. With people getting increasingly health-conscious, it was important to load up on the toppings, but also on nutritional goodness to take off the guilty edge. And there is enough to feel guilty about (in a good way). Jack Po Tato’s serves up a whole meal in one potato, with signature toppings like chicken tikka, baked beans, mushrooms, honey-mustard, chicken sausages, keema, etc, paired with melted cheddar cheese. Each one of these is delicious. Care is also taken to match sauces when needed—for example, chicken sausage potato is served with barbecue sauce. These potatoes pack a delicious punch and it is impossible to pick a favourite. It’s one of the simplest and yet tastiest food concepts I have ever encountered.
The flavours are decidedly Indian. Inspired as Sharma was by his visits to England that led him to create Jack Po Tato’s, he still pays attention to the Indian palate and the desire for value-for-money food. Jack Po Tato’s scores on both counts. It’s a wholly made-in-India recreation of a popular western dish and this is why it will succeed in a crowded market for quick, comfort food.
Advaita Kala is a writer, most recently of the film Kahaani. She is also a former hotelier having worked in restaurants in India and abroad