Nita Mukesh Ambani, Founder and Chairperson of Reliance Foundation, brought Indian heritage to the global stage at the TIME100 Summit in New York. During her ‘Leadership Lens’ conversation with TIME CEO Jessica Sibley, she draped a breathtaking Tribal Lore Jamdani saree from West Bengal, a true masterpiece handwoven by Padma Shri awardee Biren Kumar Basak in Phulia.
In an exclusive interview with Financial Express Online, Basak revealed that it took him over two years to make this masterpiece, which costs a little more than Rs 5 lakh.
Nita Ambani in six-yards of exquisite ‘Tribal Lore’
Nita Ambani turned heads at the global event in this Meenakari Jamdani saree named ‘Tribal Lore.’ The cream-toned six-yard drape served as a profound tribute to Bengal’s storied weaving traditions.
The saree is a marvel of detail, blending intricate Meenakari work with tribal motifs and ceremonial storytelling.
What elevates this piece to heirloom status is its narrative “storytelling” through thread. While the pallu depicts human figures, animals, and lush foliage in a series of ceremonial scenes, the soft pastel stripes run across the drape, providing an elegant contrast to the complex artistry and ensuring a sense of refined restraint.
The saree was paired with a delicate sheer blouse and timeless pearls which gave Ambani an effortless, regal, and sophisticated look. As the images went viral, one thing was clear. Her Jamdani saree didn’t just steal the show, it quietly became the highlight showcasing the unparalleled artistry of Indian craftsmanship on an international platform.
Weaving Rs 5 Lakh Masterpiece for Nita Ambani
Basak, while speaking to the Financial Express, revealed that the saree that Nita Ambani wore was not a custom commission, but a creation inspired by the daily life and lanes of Santiniketan.
“I once went to Bolpur in Santiniketan, and that’s where I got inspired from the tribal people there. This is how I came up with the design,” Basak said. He further revealed that this is his “general process” behind the creation of these exclusive designs. He added that he only makes one piece each of such designs, making them all the more exclusive.
Basak further revealed that Nita Ambani’s team was searching for inspiration across India at the time of her brand Swadesh‘s opening. The store is her luxury retail label dedicated to Indian artisans. That’s when her team came across his designs.
“They got inspired and took a bulk order then. I was even invited to the store’s opening. Around 19th or 20th of April, her team told me that Nita Ambani is interested in this particular design and that she would want to wear it on the 22nd in New York,” he said.
Basak added that they were so moved by the craftsmanship that the team interviewed the weavers personally, a video of which was screened at the Time100 Summit in New York.
The Master behind the art
From the historic textile hubs of West Bengal, Biren Kumar Basak has emerged as an artistic powerhouse whose work now commands a global audience. Basak’s weaving empire today generates an annual turnover of Rs 50 crore, a far cry from his humble beginnings where he sold his first saree for just Rs 60.
Basak began weaving at the age of 13. While he has been in the saree trade since 1981, it was in 1987 that he shifted his focus toward perfecting the intricate art forms that have now become his signature.
His client list reads like a who’s who of Indian excellence, including the West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee, Former Indian Cricket Captain Sourav Ganguly, Amjad Ali Khan, and renowned veteran actress Moushumi Chatterjee.
Today, Basak manages a core team of 25 employees and leads a massive network of 5,000 weavers, together producing approximately 16,000 hand-woven sarees every month. His contribution to Indian textiles was officially recognized in 2013, when the Union Ministry of Textiles honored him with the prestigious Sant Kabir Award.
Beyond official government recognition, Basak’s craftsmanship has earned him international and domestic prestige. In 2018, he secured a Guinness World Record by creating a staggering 3,726-meter-long sari. This followed a 2014 entry into the India Book of Records for a unique Jamdani piece. That particular project, crafted from muga and tussar silk, depicted the various temperaments of Lord Ganesh and required over a year of intensive labor.
His portfolio also boasts two significant national milestones. In 1998, Basak dedicated two and a half years to producing the first-ever Dakai sari to feature the Krittibas Ramayana. This intricate textile achievement utilized a muslin kora warp and a tussar silk weft.