A decade back, when Varq, the modern Indian restaurant at the Taj Mahal Hotel in the capital, was launched, it was a pioneer in modern Indian cuisine. With chef Hemant Oberoi at the helm, at Varq, Indian food moved away from the bowls of brown or yellow curry to beautiful pre-plated food. Blending traditional flavours with modern twists, it was an instant hit. But Indian Accent followed soon after and then the Masala Library, which modernised Indian food like never before. Varq was in need of a fresh perspective, which has finally happened as it celebrates its 10th anniversary. Under the able tutelage of executive chef Arun Sundararaj, chef Rajesh Singh has breathed fresh life into the menu with new techniques applied to traditional ingredients.
In sync with the times, there is a big emphasis on seasonal and local produce. There is pumpkin on the menu, ker sangri, zucchini flowers, spinach and broccoli, while the usual ‘restaurant ingredients’ like asparagus and bell peppers get a pass. Vegetarians don’t need to be content with just paneer or mushrooms, though there is the ubiquitous paneer dish with raw garlic if the average north Indian palate so demands. Beetroot, the most glamourous vegetable in restaurant menus these days, is made into a smooth galauti kebab, delicately flavoured with spices and presented in a cloche full of sandalwood smoke. The theatrics continue with a ‘masala pot’, which is served on a small tray of smoking pebbles and is essentially dahi bada chaat where the green chutney is a sorbet with a liquid nitrogen hit, slowly imparting its flavour as it melts. Banana slices are an unexpected delight, and with puffed wild rice, give the dish a play of textures. A beautiful wooden platter with a multigrain khichada comes with ghee, tempered curd, green chilli pickle and ker sangri, a full meal in itself.
Mini appams with prawns, served with a pineapple chutney, are an absolute delight and the Dhungar patthar ke kebab are melt-in-the-mouth. Chicken tikka gets an interesting makeover with a minced chicken souffle served in a sauce flavoured with fenugreek leaves.Use of multiple grains can be seen across dishes, be it black rice served with pepper prawns or quinoa served as a pulao with duck confit. The bread platter has a melange of interesting options, including a gluten-free tandoori roti, a bajra missi roti, mandua flatbread or a naan sprinkled with lemon powder. A quinoa orange kheer is a clear favourite on the table, as are the filter coffee kulfis. A modest Sundararaj, giving all credit to the young Rajesh Singh, tells us the new menu is a result of six months of labour, where the thought process focused on the ingredient. Varq has always offered generous portions, and coupled with the fresh and bold flavours, diners can expect a hearty and very satisfying meal.
