In the vibrant culinary landscape of Delhi, Chef Dhruv Nijhawan stands out as a pioneering force with his innovative restaurant, NOE. With a background that fuses classic European techniques and a passion for plant-based cuisine, Chef Dhruv has carved a niche for himself in the realm of elevated comfort food. In our exclusive interview, he shares the inspiration behind NOE, highlighting how the essence of The Diplomat Hotel and its elegant surroundings shaped his culinary journey. From his adventurous experiences in Ladakh to his commitment to sustainability, Chef Dhruv opens up about the philosophy that drives his menu and his aspirations for the future of dining. Join us as we delve into the creative mind of this award-winning chef, exploring his approach to redefining comfort cuisine while maintaining a deep respect for tradition and innovation.
Can you share with us the inspiration behind the concept of NOE and how it reflects your culinary journey?
The concept and menu for NOE were inspired by the timeless elegance of The Diplomat Hotel and its surrounding Lutyens Delhi neighborhood. We aimed to create an all-time go-to destination for elevated comfort dining, with a vibrant social atmosphere and an elegant cocktail room, offering dishes that evoke nostalgia while introducing innovative flavors and techniques. Innovating dishes through a play of ingredients and cooking techniques to bring something fresh has always excited me. This passion has taken me through some amazing culinary adventures, such as Dholkar in Ladakh, where I researched authentic ingredients lost over time to create plant-based Ladakhi recipes using traditional cooking techniques. My experiences with Lodhi in New Delhi and as Head Chef at People for Tomorrow, Delhi’s only 100% plant-based restaurant, further shaped this journey. I feel that the concept of NOE and particularly the menu were natural progressions in my culinary path.
NOE is known for its “elevated comfort cuisine.” How do you define this concept, and how do you bring it to life in your dishes?
When we say “elevated comfort cuisine,” we’re bridging the gap between traditional comfort food and innovative dining. The goal is to create a space where guests from diverse backgrounds and palates can enjoy wholesome, healthy meals. All dishes on the menu are inspired by familiar, comforting flavors but are enhanced with novel, premium-quality ingredients and a refined touch, offering something for everyone.
As both a chef and an artist, how do you balance creativity with practicality when designing a menu?
Each dish is designed with the selected flavor profile in mind, combined with a blend of instincts, trials, and experience. Several factors go into selecting a flavor profile: the target audience for the dish, seasonal ingredients, the availability of authentic and quality ingredients, and a vision along with the right cooking technique to bring that vision to life. A fine balance is maintained between being creative and ensuring our guests will realistically enjoy the dishes. One of our most unique dishes, which may sound adventurous but hits the right notes every time, is Leek and Tamari. This dish features koji-braised leeks paired with our take on ghee khurchan, accompanied by French sour cream infused with a tomato-tamari base, and finished with a dusting of orange and chili.
How do you source your ingredients, and what role does sustainability play in your culinary philosophy?
We are committed to sourcing premium-quality ingredients. Embracing the “glocal” mindset is central to our philosophy. Just as the average person in Delhi now speaks in Hinglish, blending languages seamlessly, there are ingredients that may be considered imported but have become staples in our kitchens. Our focus on quality drives us to choose fresh, local, and seasonal produce wherever possible. It’s all about selecting the right ingredients that play a harmonious role in our culinary creations.
What are some of your signature dishes?
- Lobster & Bread: Crusty bread soaked in rich lobster bisque, topped with lobster roll slaw, Korean chili, and Kewpie mayo.
- Cabbage & Tofu: Twice-baked cabbage with a zing of fermented ginger, garlic chutney, and a silky tofu purée, topped with spiced pistachio crumble.
- Prawn & Black Garlic: Prawns slow-roasted in noisette butter, served with black garlic mayu, marinated kundru, and a roasted garlic bulb with a hint of lemon.
How do you stay innovative in a competitive culinary scene like Delhi’s?
It is definitely not just about an ‘innovative menu.’ Delhi has a very mature audience with an experienced, discerning, and diverse palate. This calls for outstanding quality in food and drinks, as well as offering something refreshing, new, and yet familiar. The ambience of the space is an integral part of the equation. Elements such as lighting, music, decor, and furniture contribute to creating a warm, positive mood, enhancing the overall dining experience.
Can you share a memorable kitchen experience or a challenging moment that has shaped your approach to cooking?
One of my most memorable experiences was at 19, working in a French kitchen (La Mata’afa) in Chamonix Mont-Blanc. I was new to the culinary world and intimidated, but the chefs guided me, shaping my early career and fostering a love for learning. Another defining challenge came when I gave up meat but still had to cook and taste it in restaurants. Though it was tough, it pushed me to refine my craft. For years, I avoided cooking meat entirely, but at NOE, I’ve rediscovered my passion, collaborating with Mentee Chef Sammy to create a beautifully curated menu that balances my personal journey with innovation.
Why don’t we see many female chefs in Indian restaurants?
The lack of female chefs in Indian restaurants often stems from cultural barriers, orthodox thinking, and societal patriarchy, which wrongly assume women aren’t suited for tough kitchen environments—an idea with which I completely disagree. I’ve worked with incredible female chefs who can easily hold their own against any male chef in the industry. While long, off-peak working hours pose challenges, it’s really the gender bias and lack of mentorship that hinder more women from entering the field. Thankfully, this is changing, with more women stepping into leadership roles and reshaping the industry.
How do you see the future of dining evolving, and what trends do you predict will shape the culinary landscape?
The future of dining is all about personalization, sustainability, and a deeper connection with ingredients and the overall dining experience. At NOE, we see a shift toward elevated comfort cuisine that merges familiarity with innovation, offering diners something both nostalgic and new. Plant-based options, locally sourced ingredients, and mindful consumption are becoming key trends, with guests seeking not just great food but also an experience that aligns with their values.
What excites you the most about being a chef, and what are your future aspirations for the restaurant?
What excites me most about being a chef is the constant opportunity for creativity and the ability to connect with people through food. Every dish we create at NOE tells a story, blending tradition with innovation, and it’s incredibly rewarding to see how diners experience that. As for the future, we aspire to push boundaries and continually elevate our offerings. A major goal is to have NOE recognized on platforms like the 50 Best Discovery list, showcasing our unique culinary philosophy to a global audience while staying true to the roots of elevated comfort cuisine.
