At FHW 2016, Mumbai the panel discussion on ‘The Challenges of Sourcing International Food Products’ saw chefs and F&B experts engage in an animated debate on the pros and cons of FSSAI regulations and the impact on business and chef’s creativity By Sudipta Dev
One of the highlights of the inaugural day of Food Hospitality World global exhibition was the Hospitality Think Tank panel discussion on ‘The Challenges of Sourcing International Food Products’. The panel members included F&B heads and executive chefs of leading hotel companies, including Ashish Shome, director – F&B, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai; Debdeep Chakraborty, director – F&B, Four Points by Sheraton Navi Mumbai; Gaurav Magoo, F&B director, Novotel Imagica Khopoli; Aditya Parekh, founder and director, Aspher Foods; Chef Vishal Atreya, executive chef, JW Marriott Mumbai Sahar; and Chef Zubin D’Souza, corporate executive chef, Mars Enterprises.
The FSSAI ruling has brought about a lot of changes through the transition years for hotels and restaurants. While the rulings have led to many challenges for chefs who continue to be aggrieved, there have been some positive impact too, primarily the fact that it has stopped India from being a dumping ground of sub standard food products. “Hotels were given one and a half years for implementation but many hotels and restaurants have not implemented it. We as a fraternity should also support this. FSSAI sends out the right message. More and more international companies are now looking at India. They know that FSSAI ruling is stringent but it gives a good message across the globe. In my hotel, all products are FSSAI labeled so we have confidence that what we offer is world class. The challenges are that we are sometimes forced to choose other brands,” said Shome, albeit adding that the chefs should have the liberty to use the brand they choose. He acknowledged that the government has also learned over a period of time – it is a huge machinery to sort and consequently not easy.
With Indians travelling the world, the taste of people has also become more global. They demand and are ready to pay for the best. “We are a country of millennials, they have the right amount of disposable income. About 18 years ago I had the freedom to import whatever products that I want from across the world, today when the demand has increased manifolds I cannot serve them. The Indian palate has gone global but we cannot cater to our customers. Businesses do get affected as I have to cut a sorry face in front of the customer either because the ingredient is not available at all or if it is rotting in the warehouse and I cannot bring it to the table,” said Chef Atreya.
Reminding that in 1995, the Oberoi group started importing everything from abroad, Chef D’Souza rued that things have changed 20 years later. “FSSAI states that there should be at least 60 days of shelf life. We do not have any labs or infrastructure to test according to FSSAI rules. It is nothing but a bullying tactic. The babus are not trained. We are scared, but why should I be scared? Like a painter has the choice to paint in pink, blue or yellow, why can’t I make the pasta category I want?” he argued. Refuting that those engaged with FSSAI are food specialists, Chakraborty mentioned, “They have a book and we also have a book. If there is a rule it has to be followed.” Acknowledging that food is a sensitive topic as it pertains to health, Magoo added that Indian retailers used to get expired stuff, relabel it and then sell here. FSSAI is now asking for engravings on the package. “FSSAI is both, a watchdog and a regulator,” he added.
Matter of quality
A lot of import happens largely during Diwali, Christmas and New Year. Chef D’Souza believes that if quality products are bought from a quality supply chain then there is no question of getting old products. “Everyone wants repeat customers. The problem is our supplier cannot get it out of the customs,” he added. Asserting that there is no middle path and the only way is the right way or the wrong way, Chef D’Souza remarked that no chef will use sub standard ingredients. Hotels have their own checkpoints for food safety and quality.
While from a business point of view it is good to have rules but enforcement has been uneven, said Parekh. “Expired products are not okay but to have international companies have labels just for India is not practical. On pretext of testing, people should not be harassed. Business owners lose products so they hack up price for the product sourced,” opined Parekh.
Need for transparency
Clarity and transparency is needed when it comes to regulations, which keep changing. Magoo believes that the license should be increased to three years. According to Chef Atreya, one and a half years is not enough time for implementation. “It is still in its teething stages. Implementation should be clear. Licensing should be clear and not be based on different aspects – it should be clubbed.” Pointing out that with the rollout of GST, a lot of rules regarding taxation should be straightened, Parekh stated, “The agencies should not be overlapping. In a restaurant 28 licenses are needed. Implementation takes a long time.”
Shome agreed that the government needs to simplify the processes. “It will bring in more people. As of now it is not happening. There is no single window to simplify the licensing process,” he stated.
Despite the enigmatic debates, almost all panel members agreed to one sad truth – despite being a top producer, Indian products are not trusted the same way as those imported into India. Then there is the question of organic products which has been a much debated subject in recent times. Chef D’Souza pointed out that organic products are a myth as to be truly organic the land should not have been subjected to pesticide for the last 60 years as the soil still carries the contaminants.