You would be forgiven for talking about the weather in Chiang Mai. It?s the comparatively cooler climes which really turn on the charm as far as golfing in the city is concerned. While other (and equally viable) golf destinations in Thailand, such as Hua Hin and Bangkok, swelter in humid heat from the end of March, Chiang Mai is very bearable, almost pleasant, till May.
Just over 700 km from Bangkok (five-seven hours by road, or a 45-minute flight), and flanking the banks of the Ping River, the erstwhile first city of the Lanna Kingdom (second in importance only to the capital) has evolved into a fascinating place, its multi-faceted history and culture blending wonderfully with modernity.
Golf isn?t one of the city?s traditional attractions even though it is home to the oldest sporting club in Thailand, the Chiang Mai Gymkhana, which was established in 1898 by a group of itinerant British expatriates and included a nine-hole course. The historic layout survives to this day, almost in its original design, but it has been joined by a dozen or so additions to offer golf tourists a wide range of options. These include championship courses designed by well-known names, including Lee Schmidt and Brian Curley (of Schmidt-Curley), Ronald Garl and Peter Thomson.
Most touring golfers queue up at the Alpine Golf Resort. But this is an ill-advised move unless you?re really on top of your game. The Ronald Garl design is a 7,541-yard monster from the tips, and possibly the most difficult in Chiang Mai. Only 8-handicappers and below are allowed to challenge the course from the black tees (you need to carry a handicap certificate). For lesser mortals, the blue tees present a more-than-adequate 7,174 yards of length to navigate.
Set in the San Kampaeng forest, with golden teakwood trees lining the fairways, the Alpine Golf Resort boasts a breathtakingly scenic layout. But it bares its teeth if you try and bludgeon it into submission; this is a shotmaker?s course with deep bunkering and water in play on most of the holes. With the majority of par-4s averaging over 400 yards, you?re hitting mid- and long irons on your approaches. The fourth hole, for example, is the longest par-5 on the course, at 652 yards. Even more difficult is the 11th, a 524-yard par-4 dogleg with water down the entire left side of the fairway.
The signature is the 15th, featuring an island green reminiscent of TPC Sawgrass. At 169 yards, this hole looks tougher than it actually is (the green is almost 50 yards long). The Alpine is a fantastic course to play but to enjoy your game, it?s important to shelve the ego and stick to either the blue?or even the white?tees (playing from the latter, at 6,814 yards, is no walk in the park).
Much easier to get around (and this is the place with which to ideally start your golfing vacation in Chiang Mai) is the Summit Green Valley Country Club. With its relatively wider fairways and greens of moderate speeds, this course is more receptive to mid- and high-handicappers. That said, it can seem deceptively easy?an abundance of water bodies and bunkers in the landing areas demand smart play from the tees.
The hole that stays with you after you?ve finished is the 416-yard par-4 ninth. The drive has to fly over water and thread through bunkers on both sides of the landing area, while the second shot requires you to clear a water body on the way to an elevated green surrounded by big palm trees. The Summit Green Valley CC is also fully floodlit, allowing you to tee it up at night?if you?re looking for something different (the green fee for night golf is substantially less).
Also set amongst the hills is the Schmidt-Curley design Chiang Mai Highlands (which opened in 2005). A 45-minute drive from the centre of the city, the course affords magnificent views on almost every hole. With large, undulating greens, and close to 100 bunkers, it?s almost as difficult as Alpine. Starting with the downhill first, the Highlands eases the golfer into his game with gentle terrain before testing him with elevation changes on the back nine. The landing areas are large but the bunkers are downright cavernous. If you can?t avoid the sand traps, it?s impossible to score well on this course.
Of course, the ?high? season (October-March) is the best possible time to visit; everyone (including Thais) heads to Chiang Mai during these months. This leads to hiked-up rates for everything, including lodging (and even green fees), so do pre-book your tee time. Call the clubs at least a week in advance, or better still, confirm the same over email before you arrive in Chiang Mai. In ?low? season, it?s possible to ?walk in? for a round on weekdays. As with most golfing destinations, clubs are very particular about tee times. If you miss yours, you likely won?t get another opportunity to play the same day.
Chiang Mai is a mid-sized town and getting about is easy, either by cab or Tuk Tuk. All golf courses can arrange transportation for you or your group, to and from the golf course. Costs vary between THB 800?1,800 (depending on the location of the course). There are direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai to Chiang Mai, or you can break journey in Bangkok?Thai Airways operates multiple flights throughout the day. For a more authentic experience, and if you have time on your hands, hop on to a train (12 hours from Bangkok). Trains from the capital?s Hua Lumphong station depart six times a day, from 8 am to 10 pm.
Off the course, there?s a lot to do in town. Pubs and restaurants on the Ping riverfront spoil you for choice once you?re finished with the day?s golf. There are spas galore, a host of entertainment and activity options, and even (for those interested) workshops in Thai cooking. Best of all, there aren?t any of the traffic snarls that you?re bound to come across in Bangkok or Phuket.
The caddie fee at all courses ranges from THB 200 to THB 250. Most golfers tip between THB 300 and THB 500. Carts are available at all courses and usually cost between THB 500 and 800 (one cart usually accommodates one golfer). The green fee is usually heavily discounted in the low season.
A golfer, Meraj Shah also writes about the game