After visiting Kronborg Castle in Denmark?the setting for Shakespeare?s Hamlet?the writer wonders if the visit was historical or literary. Perhaps, it was both

ACT I, SCENE I: Elsinore. A platform before the castle.

This is how William Shakespeare?s play The Tragedy of Hamlet begins. And so, I perched myself on ?the platform before the castle? just like Francisco in the play, and started imagining the conversation between him and Bernardo. ?Tis now struck twelve; get thee to bed, Francisco.? Well, the clock had struck 12, but it wasn?t midnight, but noon. So instead of thinking about going to bed, I went inside the castle and looked around.

I was at Kronborg Castle near Copenhagen, the mythical ?Castle of Elsinore? in the famous tragedy by the Bard. Interestingly, Shakespeare never visited it. His theatre troupe did. And it is said that they were so impressed and gave such varied details to Shakespeare that he, at once, decided to use the castle as a setting for his forthcoming play. Those managing the castle also claim that the character of Hamlet is based on a north European prince called Amlet. What?s more, Elsinore is actually the English spelling of Denmark?s seaside town of Helsingor, where the castle is located.

So I embarked upon a guided tour to get a first-hand experience of royal munificence. Surrounded by the huge rampart, Kronborg?also called Frederiksborg (after King Frederick II who built it)?is a mish-mash of towers, spires and green copper roofs. It was built in the 1550s to demonstrate Denmark?s power and prosperity. At that time, sumptuous banquets were typical of castle life, and Kronborg?s magnificent architecture was a fitting backdrop for the king and his court to enjoy such banquets.

With the finest of wood, silk upholstery and the costliest porcelain on display, the ground floor bears witness to the profuse opulence and magnificence of those times. Interestingly, the furniture has been preserved well and is in a usable condition even today. Not surprisingly, visitors are not allowed to touch anything. So particular is the management that you stick to the ?no touching? rule that an official from the front office follows each group of unguided visitors just to keep an eye on those who may touch?wittingly or unwittingly?the dining tables, chairs, chests or cupboards. If one does, you will hear somebody almost screaming ?no?. Perhaps, there are some lessons to be learnt here for India on how heritage can be preserved and protected.

On this level, one gets to peep into many of the king?s and queen?s bedrooms, and the royal family?s dining rooms and living areas. But the most striking is the huge ballroom with a checkered floor and huge chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. At 63 metres, it?s said to be the longest ballroom in Europe. You can almost picture Hamlet and Ophelia, with the country?s entire nobility in tow, dancing in its pristine ambience.

As you make your way through the labyrinth of passages to the dimly-lit vaults below, a stale odour pervades the air. There sits Holger Danske, the giant who?s ready to wake up and protect the nation if the need arises. Danske finds elaborate mention in Hamlet as well, especially in passages pertaining to the supernatural.

The location of the castle is quite unique. Situated on the edge of the Danish coast, it is merely 4km from the corresponding Swedish city of Helsingborg. From the ramparts, one can see Sweden across the sea, which looks just at a stone?s throw.

However, to keep the place?s literary association intact, there is frequent staging of Hamlet by several local as well as international theatre groups. Interestingly, the management has now opened up many of the castle?s rooms, which can be hired for meetings, conferences and gala dinners.