Sartorial power

Ahead of International Women’s Day, we look at some of the leading ladies and how they assert authority, communicate their agenda or simply make a statement through the way they dress at work.

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For instance, Leena Nair, the CEO of French fashion house Chanel, is often seen in a knee-length dress and jet black hair that typically define her elegance in an international brand’s boardroom.

Iconic fashion designer Coco Chanel once said: “Dress shabbily and they remember the dress; dress impeccably and they notice the woman.” Over the years, this statement has become a timeless quote, emphasising the importance of dressing well and the power of a woman’s personal style.

Be it business, politics or the creative world, leading ladies are known to dress powerfully, and make a strong professional statement, especially to secure their place and acceptance in an otherwise male-dominated world. But as diversity and dynamism become commonplace, the rules are somewhat changing. So, whether they wear traditional, western, fusion or athleisure, the idea is also to associate their sartorial sense with individualistic behaviour, comfort, style and confidence.

For instance, Leena Nair, the CEO of French fashion house Chanel, is often seen in a knee-length dress and jet black hair that typically define her elegance in an international brand’s boardroom. Similarly, Kiran Majumdar Shaw, a woman leader in a male-dominant pharma sector and founder and executive chairman of Biocon, has balanced her business savviness with her feminine side in tailored silk jackets, trousers and vibrant scarfs.

Even Anna Wintour, the longtime editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine, is known for her distinctive style. Her consistency in dressing up exudes confidence and authority, while her approach to power dressing is characterised by her chic and tailored dresses.

In the banking sector, Naina Lal Kidwai, former group GM and country head of HSBC India, and Arundhati Bhattacharya, former chairperson of the State Bank of India, have become power dressers in sarees. On the other hand, while helming Nykaa Fashion, its CEO Adwaita Nayar—or Vineeta Singh, CEO and co-founder of SUGAR Cosmetics, for that matter—wears pantsuits in boardrooms which define a brand-centric and style-led approach representing the young and enterprising.

Even Ghazal Alagh, the co-founder and chief innovation officer of Honasa Consumer, is a household name today. Helming brands like Mamaearth and The Derma Co, her determination as a startup woman entrepreneur was reflected in her judging skills on Shark Tank India, where she participated while being eight months pregnant, dressed in free-flowing dresses, red lips and smart heels. “What people in positions of power wear creates an impact on the people around them and at the same time communicates their agenda,” says Nandita Abraham, CEO and interim dean at BITS Design School. 

As much as the roles define diversity and dynamism, professionals now walk in style to define their roles. Politicians across the world are a case in point. From Nirmala Sitharaman, Mamata Banerjee, Sonia Gandhi and Supriya Sule to Mahua Moitra, Nusrat Jehan and Hema Malini, women politicians in India convey an image and their personal style is crafted to communicate that. 

When Bengal CM Mamata Banerjee went about her election campaign on a wheelchair in 2021 despite an injury in her trademark white cotton sari in mono-coloured blue border and rubber hawai chappals, her demeanour resonated with the masses.

While finance minister Nirmala Sitharaman dons handloom sarees to promote vocal for local, Congress leader Sonia Gandhi—known for her love for khadi prints and handloom weaves like telia rumaal from Andhra Pradesh—can easily manage a crowd, campaign or extreme weather conditions in her clothing. Similarly, Priyanka Gandhi Vadra wears a crisp, white shirt with black trousers that resonate with the city’s cosmopolitan crowd, or a handloom saree like her grandmother, former PM Indira Gandhi. Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II was known to wear colourful skirt suits that were stylish and created to ensure crowds could see her. Similarly, Theresa May, former PM of the UK, wore a mix of graphic designs and textured jackets, while Hillary Clinton’s pant suits and dresses make a bold statement. 

US Vice-President Kamala Harris sports blazers, pant suits and sneakers with an underlying message of a woman in action.

Gurugram-based image, fashion and grooming consultant Yatan Ahluwalia says, “Clothes and accessories create an image that connects with culture, nationality and people. They are often used to build a patriotic or nationalist narrative as well.” 

Here, we profile four women who have embraced fashion—traditional or Western—making significant strides in their respective fields and inspiring the masses with the choice of clothes they wear at work.

The practical royalist

Princess Diya Kumari (53), deputy chief minister, Rajasthan

In her many roles as a public servant (deputy chief minister and minister of tourism, finance, art, literature, culture and archaeology in Rajasthan), a philanthropist (founder of Princess Diya Kumari Foundation Society) and a royal scion, Princess Diya Kumari has many hats to don. Making her comfortable in her day-to-day life is the humble saree, which she calls a “versatile garment”.

“It is practical for someone like me who works in public service. It not only reflects the cultural ethos of our country but is also comfortable, free-flowing and unstructured to allow ease of movement while also being protective, as it covers the entire body and yet lends a sophisticated look,” explains the 53-year-old granddaughter of Man Singh II, the last ruling Maharaja of the princely state of Jaipur during the British Raj.

The colourful traditional sarees in leheriya and bandhej prints in intricate zari, resham and gota patti patterns by skilled artisans bring forth the art, heritage and culture important to her desert state. “Handcrafted sarees are practical for my profession, connecting my passion for promoting craft with my style,” she adds.

“The formal sarees that I usually wear for special occasions, like classic chiffons, are hand embellished by local artisans from Rajasthan using textile craft techniques such as hand embroidery, zardozi, sequin work, gotta patti, etc. These are also the kind of craft-based sarees created by women artisans trained by my foundation. With my love for classics and an affinity for the craft and textile traditions of Rajasthan, in formal wear, I lean towards sophisticated chiffons, which are very comfortable and breathable fabrics. They remind me of my grandmother, the late Rajmata Gayatri Devi, and my mother, Rajmata Padmini Devi, who are also my style icons,” she adds.

The modern traditionalist

Arundhati Bhattacharya (67), CEO & chairperson, Salesforce India

As the first woman chairperson of State Bank of India (SBI), Arundhati Bhattacharya has been credited with  ushering in digital transformation at the financial powerhouse, introducing several policies for women, including two-year sabbatical leave, temporary deputations and flexible work hours that allow female employees to manage work and home. Having succeeded in a male-dominated world of Indian public sector banking, she has opted for a traditional look with sarees and bindi.“The way you dress at work says a lot about your taste and personality. It’s usually the first thing that people notice about you and it makes an impact, like the Hindi saying, ‘Pehle darshan dhari piche gun bichari’ (First the looks get noticed, later the virtues),” adds Bhattacharya, currently CEO and chairperson of Salesforce India. She oversees the growth strategy of the company and plays an integral role in defining Salesforce’s relationship with the ecosystem of customers, partners and community across India.But when she started her career in the 1970s, dressing up was almost like putting on an armour at work. “It was as if I went out for a battle,” she says, adding: “Slowly, my confidence improved and I developed a style that suited both my beliefs and my comfort zone. I began to look at it as a form of self-expression that communicated my identity and values. To me, a saree spells power and elegance. I believe it enhances a woman’s personality like none other; it represents a harmonious blend of traditional values and contemporary professionalism. A saree has the advantage of suiting every body type and helps one create a versatile look.”Over the years, Bhattacharya has taken to wearing handwoven and embroidered sarees as she feels it has helped the wonderfully creative artisans of the country in some way.“I match them with beads and other jewellery, again made by small-time entrepreneurs. This gives me a very individualised style at a pretty affordable price. From embroidered styles like kantha, Kashmiri stitch, Parsi work, chikan and the Sambalpuri, Maheshwari, Kanchipuram, Patola, Chanderi, Baluchari and Banarasi among the weaves, I match my neck pieces in coloured stones or beads, terracotta and sometimes other materials like shells or cloth or threads. Saree lends a certain grace and finesse to all who wear it. And whenever I feel down for any reason, I visit a saree shop. The variety and richness of colours, textures and patterns are a great ‘pick me up’ and I always return home happier clutching my purchases,” adds Bhattacharya. 

The versatile fashionista

Neeta Lulla (58), Costume designer & fashion stylist

A prominent name in the show business industry, fashion designer Neeta Lulla has carved out a niche as a costume designer and couturier by wearing many hats. An academician-designer, teacher for the past 34 years in various institutes such as SNDT University in Mumbai, jury member of the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences and aperture committee on costumes for the Oscars in 2020, Lulla has worked on costume design for more than 400 films and likes to reflect a harmonious fusion of Indian and international elements, making her style and brand globally relevant.

“Versatility and comfort are key for me in power dressing,” says Mumbai-based Lulla, the founder of the label, House of Neeta Lulla, whose go-to is a well-cut jacket, suits and a comfortable pair of boots or shoes for an outdoor meeting, conference or lecture and a wedding saree with a formal jacket or bodysuit draped in different styles for formal evenings. Cargo pants, shirts or T-shirts with jackets in neutrals or denims work on any normal day.

“I wear jackets and shoes to make a strong statement as this can also be coordinated with neutral sarees for a formal look or bling trousers with singlets to match a formal evening or show appearances,” says Lulla, who believes in the idea that first impressions make lasting impressions. 

“My style statement speaks about fashion as a profession and exudes confidence in modern and contemporary fusion. I use hats, turbans and bandanas to match my outfit,” she says.

Power dressing for Lulla is as versatile as her characters in films. From Chandni, Lamhe, Jodha Akbar and Devdas to Manikarnika, Thalaivi and Shaakuntalam, Lulla enhances the beauty of women and woman power in her historical films and costume dramas. She prioritises sustainability by using biodegradable and recycled textiles, working with suppliers to use organic and non-polluting dyes, and switching to environmentally friendly packaging. An early adopter of online retail in 2008, she introduced ready-to-wear sarees in 2001 and fibre optic dress in 2017, besides championing the homegrown weaves like banarasi, kalamkari and kanjeevaram in her collections. Lulla brings an Indo-Western appeal to her dress design, which has also become her personal style.

“Comfort and confidence are important. Whether it’s a crisp suit or a tailored dress, there’s something about the polished look that resonates with me. Beyond just the appearance, I feel a sense of readiness and professionalism when dressed formally. Slipping into formal wear is like putting on armour—it prepares me to tackle situations head-on. Formal attire makes me feel both comfortable and empowered. I opt for classic suits, well-coordinated and constructed looks put together and a fusion of coordinates like sarees teamed with jackets or accessories like belts and boots or shoes,” says Lulla, who is often seen dressed to the nines in hand rings, caps, turbans and bandanas.

The sporty corporate

Vineeta Singh (40), co-founder & CEO, SUGAR Cosmetics

As the co-founder and CEO of makeup brand SUGAR Cosmetics— and recently forming a strategic partnership with actor-investor Kareena Kapoor Khan to launch Quench Botanics, a premium Korean skincare brand —Vineeta Singh’s dressing style reflects what her brand stands for—being yourself and unstoppable.

Singh’s wardrobe is versatile, in vibrant shades like hot pink or indigo, and adaptable to various occasions. “I prefer wearing sharp, impeccably tailored suits for important events. 

On any given day, you may find me in a ‘sporty avatar’, pairing dresses with sneakers that do not compromise style or comfort,” she says.

Her fashion sensibilities are quite relatable to her achievements as a woman entrepreneur, a mother of two sons, an athlete, and a mentor while she helms a direct-to-customer brand valued at $500 million.

Singh has been in the news for making the right career moves, facing discrimination and rejections from investors, declining a `1 crore job offer from an investment bank at the age of 23 years to start her enterprise. A driving force for women, she believes in women empowerment with a workforce accounting for 75% of women employees in her startup, and reach a target of 10,000 women employees soon.

She is one of the judges of the reality show, Shark Tank India. “My attire reflects a commitment, readiness to lead with vision, embrace challenges, and inspire beauty in every aspect of life. It’s about the comfort and the confidence it instills, underscoring my belief that true empowerment stems from feeling at ease in one’s own skin. I favour monochromatic outfits with strong, solid colours, which are impactful and exude confidence, making them perfect for professional settings. The accessories I select are understated and elegant, complementing rather than overwhelming my professional attire,” she adds.

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This article was first uploaded on March three, twenty twenty-four, at five minutes past twelve in the am.
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