At a recent high jewellery auction in Geneva, Sotheby’s sold a breathtaking ‘fancy vivid blue’ diamond for a whopping $21.5 million. One of the most valuable jewels sold this year, weighing 10.03 carats, the ‘Mediterranean Blue Diamond’ was mined last year from the legendary Cullinan mines of South Africa. It soon became the talk of the town for its vibrant colour as well as value.
“It is undoubtedly the defining stone of the season and ranks among the top blue diamonds we have sold,” said Quig Bruning, Sotheby’s head of jewellery, Americas & EMEA, adding, “The excitement reflects the growing global appetite for rare and impeccable diamonds, and a marked flight to quality among collectors who seek the very best in the world.”
With a surge in popularity and demand, coloured gemstones are having a moment, and the world just can’t seem to have enough of them. Recently, two high-octane events—Cannes Film Festival and Met Gala—generated quite a buzz for their red carpet collections. At the Cannes Film Festival, Swiss jeweller and watchmaker Chopard showcased the personal universe of its artistic director Caroline Scheufele. Seventy-eight new masterpieces, including necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, and jewellery watches, were part of this collection with a show-stopping choker made from ethical white gold, set with a jaw-dropping 129-carat Colombian emerald cabochon.
Meanwhile, at the Met Gala red carpet, actor Priyanka Chopra wore a 241-carat Bvlgari Magnus emerald necklace, which is part of the brand’s new Polychroma collection and is a breathtaking tribute to colour, culture, and craftsmanship. It has 600 exceptional creations, including 250 new high jewellery and high-end watch pieces.
Global icons Jennifer Lopez and Selena Gomez, and Bollywood divas Alia Bhatt, Kareena Kapoor and Janhvi Kapoor have worn Bvlgari collections worldwide. This is at a time when the US-headquartered jewellery brand Angara entered India last month; and Parisian jewellery brand Messika launched its first standalone store at The Chanakya, New Delhi.
“Diamond jewellery remains popular in the studded category, but we have been seeing growing consumer interest in coloured stone jewellery and classic jewellery with rose cut diamonds,” says Ramit Kapur, MD of the Gemological Science International (GSI), a global leader in diamond and jewellery certification.
According to Kapur, “Certification data from our labs show a sharp rise in submissions for these categories, signaling a shift in buyer preferences toward more expressive and personalised choices.”
Craftsmanship & creativity
Coloured gems have long been associated with craftsmanship. Bvlgari was founded in Rome in 1884 by Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris. Renowned for its unconventional gemstone combinations, colour palettes, and signature techniques, the brand has become a symbol of a legacy built on bold design, architectural precision, and timeless elegance.
Those looking for a closer look of craftsmanship, there is a major exhibition being held at The Victoria and Albert Museum in London, featuring more than 350 objects, including precious jewels, historic gemstones, iconic watches and clocks that chart the evolution of Cartier’s legacy of art, design and craftsmanship since the turn of the 20th century. From Cartier London Tutti Frutti bandeau, made in 1928 for Lady Mountbatten on long-term loan to the museum; Panthère clip brooch of 1949 sold to the Duke of Windsor and Cartier Collection; to a necklace from a private collection, the exhibition has a mix of hues and hot jewels on display till November this year.
With a 400-year-old legacy in trading gemstones from Jaipur, US-based fine jewellery brand Angara entered India this year with an aim to grow the coloured gemstone category. The demand for Angara is pan-India with Bengaluru emerging at the top with 22%. However, 60% of orders are from tier 2-4 cities.
“We first built the brand in the US to test and scale as a tech-first, D2C fine jewellery model, and now we have grown that into an over $100-million global business,” says cofounder Aditi Daga, who launched the brand in the US in 2005 followed by the UK and Australia.
Having a lineage that’s worked with global icons like Princess Diana and Prince Charles, and the Ambanis, and now seeing a growing appetite for jewellery in India, Daga wants to expand not just in scale but in sentiment.
“That’s exactly what coloured gemstones bring to the table. We began with a soft launch and crossed Rs 10 crore in revenue within six months, with little to no marketing. Now, we plan to open our first physical store globally later this year, in Jaipur, followed by 100 stores across India by 2030,” adds Daga.
Trending now
Coloured gemstones are transcending seasonal fashion and becoming an all-year-round favourite. From lightweight jewellery and timelessness of traditional jewellery, rubies, emeralds, pink sapphires and other brightly-hued gems now have a timeless appeal.
“Gold remains a staple choice but brides show interest in experimenting with colours, thus including precious gemstones such as rubies, emeralds in jewellery ensembles. The focus is on wearability and colourfulness. We are witnessing a strong demand for bridal jewellery which captures the entire spectrum in terms of theme and regions,” says MP Ahammed, chairman, Malabar Group.
Precious and semi-precious gemstones have unique textures and tones that bring character and distinction to diamond jewellery. “While precious stones have always been in style, what’s exciting is the creative resurgence of semi-precious gems. Brands like Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier are championing materials such as mother-of-pearl, malachite, and onyx—blending them into contemporary designs. Another stone gaining attention is spinel. With its vibrant hues and versatility, it’s fast becoming a favourite among designers and collectors,” says Leshna Shah, founder, Irasva fine jewellery.
For Daga, the shift is apparent in the US with over 60% of the engagement rings now featuring coloured gemstones or lab-grown diamonds, as per the brand’s engagement ring survey. In India, there’s a similar wave, especially among GenZ and millennial buyers, who are moving beyond ‘one-style-fits-all’ jewellery.
“They’re choosing pieces that carry meaning—birthstones, symbolic gems, and versatile designs that can be worn every day, not just locked away. The demand peaks during festivals and milestone moments like weddings and birthdays, where colour, story, and sentiment take centrestage,” says Daga.
Coloured gemstones are becoming the new classics.
Jewellery designer Archana Aggarwal, founder of Archana Aggarwal Timeless Jewellery, observes a strong and growing demand from discerning clients who seek jewellery that reflects their personality and presence. “Coloured stones bring a fresh, expressive charm that feels both timeless and distinctive. With these gems, we can create heirlooms that make them feel personal, expressive, and unforgettable, and that’s what our consumers demand,” says Aggarwal, whose collection, Celeste Lume, features pink sapphires and vivid rubies paired with diamonds.
The Indian gemstone market continues to thrive, with strong demand for natural gems like sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and tourmalines, as per Neil Sonawala, MD, Zen Diamond, who is expanding the collections to include a bold mix of gemstones and diamonds, crafting jewellery that’s premium, and versatile. “These elevate the visual appeal and offer value-driven wearable luxury,” adds Sonawala.
From classic rubies, sapphires, and emeralds to playful semi-precious gems like topaz, amethyst, and peridot, the jewels go beyond adornment—mood enhancers, conversation starters, and true style statements, and keeping in mind Gen Z and millennial women. For Piyush Gupta, director, PP Jewellers by Pawan Gupta, emeralds have become a true favourite among consumers. “We are seeing a big shift, especially with the younger crowd. It’s not just about beauty anymore—it’s about personal connection, rarity, and investment in gemstones that offer a beautiful alternative to traditional diamonds.”
