In the labyrinthine alleys of old Delhi, where the air holds echoes of forgotten tales, a timeless narrative unfolds – that of Gulab Singh Johri Mal, the capital’s oldest perfumery. Within these walls, where history and scent entwine, a journey into the heart of Chandni Chowk awaits, like a love affair with time itself, celebrating India’s 76th year of independence.
Amidst the soft embrace of dawn’s golden hues, the air stirs with a symphony of scents, guiding wanderers towards the fabled ruh-e-gulab, the “queen of ittars.” With every step, the fragrant tendrils of the past weave around us, leading us to an antiqued haven that transcends the realm of ordinary. The two shops, shrouded in an enigmatic allure, speak of a legacy spanning over two centuries.
Stepping into either of the two shops that bear the legendary name, one might be forgiven for thinking they have entered just another antiquated store. However, the moment you engage in conversation with Praful Gundhi, the amiable custodian of the establishment, and his brother Mukul, the essence of history comes alive. Wooden frames and cabinets, over a century old, elegantly encase glass shelves, while luxuriously shaped-and-cut glass attar decanters, passed down through generations, stand as testament to the family’s enduring commitment to their craft.
Enveloped by the Dariba Kalan, a place where gems shine and history lingers, one cannot help but be drawn into the cadence of history’s heartbeat. The shops here, each like a chapter of India’s saga, invoke the era preceding the echoes of rebellion in 1857, a time when a nation stirred under British rule.
The birth of the ittar during the reign of Akbar Shah II
Dating back to 1816, the fragrant tale of Gulab Singh Johri Mal dances harmoniously with the winds of change. Lala Gulab Singh and his son Lala Johrimal embarked on a journey that would intertwine their essence with the tapestry of India’s independence. A story marked by the finest ittars, showcased in the Mughal court of Akbar Shah II, a symphony of aromas that captivated the nobility and even the queens and princesses who lingered within palace walls.
Decanters of a bygone era, etched in Belgian cut glass, stand as silent witnesses to the secrets whispered in the zenana, tales of fragrance unveiled only to the chosen few. From generations past to the present, the scent-filled chapters of life reside within teak cupboards, resonating with the love and legacy that persists through time’s ephemeral grasp.
Passing on the legacy: The Gundhi Family
Today, as the Gundhi family treads on the path paved by seven generations, their artistry lives on. From roses and jasmine, meticulously extracted oils breathe life into a myriad of perfumes, keeping alive the flame of authenticity. In a world entangled in the allure of synthetics, the Gundhis remain guardians of the old ways, crafting essences that speak of tradition’s enduring charm.
The process of making
In an ethereal dance of dawn, flowers are plucked, their essence captured before the sun’s rise, ensuring the fleeting fragrance remains bound to the ittars. Among them, the Ruh-e-Gulab, a 10-gram symphony of luxury, dances with a price tag of 18,000 rupees, while a humble variant of rose essence whispers its stories for 1,000 rupees.
As the world reshapes its horizons, Gulab Singh Johri Mal remains a sanctuary untouched by time’s hands.
With celebrity patrons ranging from AR Rahman to former Prime Minister Indira Gandhi, this perfumery’s reputation has traversed boundaries. Even former Pakistan President General Pervez Musharraf, during his visit in 2009, paid homage to the shop’s heritage by choosing ittar as a gift, reflecting the shared scent that wafts across the subcontinent.
As the world transforms, this fragrant oasis of tradition stands tall. The Gundhis’ skilled artisans, now numbering fifty, preserve the essence of their ancestral art. Amidst the bustling shop and hidden distilleries, the fragrance that sparked its journey two centuries ago continues to weave its spell, reminding us of the enduring power of history, culture, and scent.
As India marks its 76th year of independence, Gulab Singh Johri Mal stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of Indian craftsmanship and tradition. Just as the nation has flourished and evolved, so too has this perfume shop weathered the tides of time, remaining steadfast in its commitment to authenticity and artistry.
So, the next time you stroll through the bustling lanes of Chandni Chowk, take a moment to step into the fragrant haven of Gulab Singh Johri Mal. Let the scents wafting from those storied bottles carry you on a journey back in time, as you celebrate not just independence, but also the art of preserving history in a bottle.
