In conversation with the financialexpress.com, FDCI (Fashion Design Council of India) head Sunil Sethi talks about the business of fashion, upcoming trends, and how the Indian fashion industry has come a long way since it first began. He believes that social media is a harbinger of change, the way we see, consume and observe the tectonic shifts in this space, which was earlier reserved for only a select few. Excerpts from the interview:
Tell us something about your collaboration with Blenders Pride Fashion Tour 2022?
Both Blenders Pride Glassware Fashion Tour and the Fashion Design Council of India are well-known brands in the fashion and lifestyle sectors, and we are pleased to continue our collaboration with them. This collaboration is an appropriate method to demonstrate our desire to change and rethink the changing face of Indian fashion. It is incredibly fascinating to see how these two forces will work together to revolutionise fashion and build a platform for talent.
How do you think fashion has evolved over the years? – how fashion changed over the pandemic?
The pandemic has forced us to think about functionality and multipurpose usage, the whole idea of being “trendy” has been redefined, as consumers want clothing that is individualistic. The fashion weeks have demonstrated how we can channel sustainability through reusability by creating timelessness. Fashion has seen a resurgence of colour to celebrate the end of the darkest days, and it is undoubtedly being viewed as a way to make clothing a socio-economic reflection of the world around us.
In this day and age of social media, how are you keeping fashion week/shows more relevant?
Social media is a harbinger of change, the way we see, consume and observe the tectonic shifts in this space, which was earlier reserved for only a select few. It has democratized the entire world, anyone anywhere can be a connoisseur, the proverbial velvet ropes have been removed. Fashion weeks will always be relevant as they are a showcase of design thinking, the future and how even the past plays a huge role in shaping its ethos. As India has the largest young population, their way of engaging has changed, everything is on the Smartphone, thus the advent of communication through digital platforms. Having said this, I do believe print will never lose its shine, as it is known for gravitas and in-depth analysis. We have increased our social media presence, also serenaded game changing ‘influencers’, as we understand their reach, among a tech-savvy audience.
How are Indian couturiers reinventing themselves?
Couturiers are reinventing the wheel, metaphorically, with interesting material explorations, offering silhouettes which speak to young customers. They have added weightless clothing, minimal shine, dollops of colour and fabric manipulations instead of traditional embellishments to appeal to a woman, who is looking at wearing one outfit on more occasions than just her wedding.
Separates have become de rigueur and now you don’t need to add duppatas you can be adventurous with veils and trails; it is less about zardozi more about how you can look like a bride and not let the outfit you are wearing weigh you down. So, whether it is embroidered sneakers or personalization on the wedding outfits, each piece the couturier creates has a lasting and holding value.
Which industry trend surprised or impressed you?
What has fascinated me is how designers are creating something new from something old—vintage sari is being resurrected to make a jacket, or scrap turns into couture with discarded material, even eyewear now is being looked at with a fresh pair of eyes where you can replace a broken part, a new take by talented designers. They want consumers to not be in a hurry to replace, but mend what is broken, which is an interesting way to look at the style sphere.
Which is the most important business lesson that you learned this year?
What we have learnt is to be able to rise from the storm and emerge stronger. Press the refresh button by understanding what the market needs and not what trend forecasters are predicting. Each market is individual so there can’t be one solution to all, you have to tailor your product according to current requirements. Thus, you see how some designers taught us how to re-wear the old piece with a new addition, or how textiles are being combined with new age materials to give the fabric malleability and smoothness.
Fashion tips for office-going men/women.
There has been a major shift in workwear fashion across industries, from basic formal attire to quirky prints, functional clothing to ankle fit trousers. As more and more start-ups are becoming unicorns, we are witnessing that they are the new corporations of the 21st century and I believe these start-ups will decide the future of workwear fashion. Light-weight, relaxed, comfortable, functional, versatile and sustainable are the features driving the workwear trends right now. Comfort and ease have become non-negotiable. And, I feel all global fashion brands/designers have already realised it and have adapted to suit the present demand and choice of the consumer.
Here are some key trends that I think will be the highlight for winter 2022:
There are frankly no trends, as now there is a role reversal, though what I can say with certainty is the need for free thinking, so you mix and match, to create something unique. Silhouettes which are comfortable but luxurious and outfits which can take you from a beach, to a flight, and a gala. The need for athleisure is growing as well as the demand for gender agnostic and fluidity. No one is compromising on feeling easy all day long, along with attempting to be a conscious customer by wanting to know where and how the garment is made. Recycled fishing nets, econyl, regenerated nylon, carpet flooring, scarps, industrial waste, parachutes, metal fabric crafted out of chain mail is the new cool.
Silhouette explorations where a dress can be worn as a skirt, you can remove or add sleeves, plus there are no sizes — small to extra-large just one size fits all kind of philosophy! There is also a sea change in the way we wear traditional crafts—now you can don an ikkat in the form of a dhoti/bralet or a lehriya as a jacket, young consumers want innovation, without making it too obvious.
According to you, who are the most fashionable:
A. Business Tycoons?
B. Actors
C. Sport stars
This is a question which has a layered response, there are many actors who look up to tycoons for their impeccable style, while sportspersons on the red-carpet dress like Bollywood stars, the line is blurred. The only answer to this question, can be no one is dressing like a sportsperson, off the field or a tycoon once she is out of the boardroom-they choose clothing that brings out their personality, the parameters of style are now more persona and character-driven.
What is the most important business lesson that you learned this year?
Uncertainty in any business leads to a sizeable fluctuation. We have observed a significant shift in the business this and the last year due to the pandemic. Our important learning has been to stay consistent in our efforts in all aspects and maintain meeting our quality and standards to avoid any discrepancies at both the consumer as well as the business end.
How would you evaluate 2023 business-wise?
The fashion industry has only grown and uniquely evolved over the years. With significant prints and designs taking over and new disruptive patterns coming in, this sector is only going to up its game leading to large consumer consumption.
How does it feel to be back on the ground? How was it managing the fashion shows online?
The pandemic had paused everything. It was a great struggle, in the beginning, to manage and coordinate everything remotely while ensuring the quality and standards are not compromised for our consumers and the audience. But with things easing out and getting back to normal, it feels amazing to be back on the ground for Blenders Pride Glassware Fashion Tour and running the shows again.
