If you have not been living under a rock, chances are that you’ve come across a certain ‘Adivasi hair oil’ promising to solve all your hair problems—whether it be hair fall, dandruff, premature greying or even baldness. The oil became such a sensation on the Internet last year that influencers lined up to promote the product, and social media was replete with reels featuring men (yes!) and women flaunting their long tresses, and promising ‘healthy returns’.
The oil came under various brand names—Adivasi Ajay Hair Oil, Neelambari Adivasi Hair Oil, Official Adivasi Hair Oil, and so on—but they all had the backing of well-known names such as Elvish Yadav, Bharti Singh, Farah Khan and Sonu Sood, to name just a few.
The manufacturers of these oils apparently come from the Hakki Pikki community, a semi-nomadic tribe in Karnataka, and promise results in no time. However, there is no scientific evidence yet for the tall claims made by them. In fact, many are found to be fake, with their brand credibility and consumer trust in question.
From anti-ageing creams to hair regeneration oils, there isn’t a shortage of such wellness, beauty and lifestyle products that claim to have medicinal properties, most of them with miraculous efficacy. But can these ‘viral products’ actually replace medically-approved treatments, or are they more of a marketing gimmick?
“Your favourite influencers are not medical experts. Some products may contain ingredients that have great potential with identified anti-inflammatory or antioxidant properties. However, the actual effectiveness of the products rarely rises to a level that would substantiate such claims,” says Dr Seema Oberoi Lall, consultant, dermatology, CK Birla Hospital, Gurugram.
“The effectiveness varies from person to person due to differences in skin and hair types. So what might work for one might not for the other person,” she adds.
Creams, oils, and shampoos that are advertised as herbal/organic are mostly a marketing gimmick that tend to show a few beneficial effects but cannot replace medically approved treatments, feels Dr Lall. “Consumers should exercise their own judgement and go for products that contain ingredients validated by science, accompanied by explicit and evidence-based claims. Do a patch test on the skin before trying a new product and consult a medical expert if required,” she adds.
Dr S C Bharija, chairperson, department of dermatology, Sir Ganga Ram Hospital, Delhi, agrees: “It is important for consumers to be informed about the potential health benefits of certain ingredients. They should look for products that offer more than just cosmetic improvements.”
“Many beauty products fall into a regulatory grey zone where they are marketed as cosmetics but make claims that are more aligned with pharmaceuticals. This is prevalent in markets with less stringent regulation, allowing companies to make bold claims without rigorous clinical evidence,” explains Dr Bharija.
Facing the truth
The need of the hour is better regulation and more clinical trials. “Enhanced regulation related to claims will help drive a more scientific- and evidence-based approach to products in India,” says Dr Aparna Santhanam, dermatology head of medical operations, at Kaya Clinic.
With consumers more informed than ever before, there is a demand for transparency, efficacy, and science-backed innovations that truly deliver results. For brands like Plum that recognise the importance of clinical claims and the role they play in earning the trust of consumers, the products combine research-backed activities with the chemistry of botanical ingredients.
“Each product undergoes a process of R&D with focus on understanding skin science. We prioritise ingredients scientifically proven to be effective. Before any product reaches the shelves, it goes through stability testing. Almost all products go through in-vitro (lab-based) and in-vivo (human-based) tests to assess skin compatibility, effectiveness of the active ingredients,” says Shankar Prasad, founder and CEO of Plum.
Holistic skincare brand Kama Ayurveda is also pioneering clinical trials in the Ayurvedic space. “The reason we do this is to prove that our centuries-old classical Ayurvedic formulations are as effective as had been written in the original texts,” says Vivek Sahni,
founder and chairman of Kama Ayurveda.
“Our first clinical trial in 2017 focused on bringadi intensive hair treatment oil, and the results were impressive. 94% participants saw a 61% reduction in hair fall after four weeks. This evidence supports our claims and highlights the necessity of clinical trials to substantiate them.”
Similarly, skincare brand Kass incorporates ancient Ayurvedic wisdom and modern science to deliver ethically-crafted skincare solutions. All of its 22 product ranges are formulated with bioactive ingredients for particular skin types.
For a product like Moha: 5-in-1 Hair Oil, Charak Pharma has conducted a comprehensive and extensive clinical study that unequivocally proves its efficacy. “These trials were carried out by third-party companies, labs and measured various parameters, including reduction in hair loss, increase in hair growth, and improvement in hair density and thickness, and reduction in dandruff,” says Dr Ram H Shroff, executive director, Charak Pharma & MD of Vedistry, an online platform for premium personal care products.
Tested OK
As per Deepti Guzar Kulkarni, founder and CEO of Kass, transparency ensures customer trust and understanding of products. “We enlighten the consumers about the relevance of scientific verification in skincare so that they can make well-informed choices apart from what is said in advertisements. We source extracts directly from nature, ensuring clarity and transparency in our communication.”
However, in India, the clinical trial landscape for beauty and personal care products like hair oils and creams is still developing. “While there have been studies and some clinical trials, the number is not yet extensive enough to ensure the right therapeutic use of products. The popularity on social media often outpaces the scientific validation available, leading to a gap between consumer perception and actual efficacy,” says Dr Kuldeep Singh, senior consultant, aesthetic, plastic and reconstructive surgery, Indraprastha Apollo Hospitals.
Singh feels consumers are likely to trust and buy products that are supported by scientific evidence. “But not all claims are backed by rigorous trials; some rely on studies that may not meet stringent clinical standards. For herbal and therapeutic products sold online, some offer benefits, but the medicinal claims often lack comprehensive scientific validation. Consumers should approach these products with caution,” adds Dr Singh.
As per Dr Geetika Mittal Gupta, aesthetic physician and founder of ISAAC Luxe (International Skin & Anti-Aging Centre), clinical development is a collaborative venture. “India presents a unique opportunity to explore market access pathways and identify joint opportunities for research and Intellectual Property collaboration. We are well-positioned to take a leading role in fostering advancements in clinical research.”
Cosmetics are not drugs and cannot claim to cure any condition, a perceptible improvement is expected—how does one prove that this indeed is being delivered?
“The answer is clinical trials conducted on actual human volunteers under a strict safety protocol and validated by independent experts. But the industry still faces challenges such as regulatory hurdles, high costs, and the need for more standardised protocols,” feels Prasad. One of the challenges being the need for indigenous research that caters specifically to Indian skin types.
As per Bharija, the medical efficacy of beauty products making medicinal claims is a subject of ongoing debate and varies significantly. Some products contain active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) that are well-documented in medical literature for their efficacy.
“For example, retinoids in anti-ageing creams, salicylic acid in acne treatments, and minoxidil in hair regrowth products have substantial clinical evidence supporting their use. These ingredients can be beneficial when used appropriately, though often higher concentrations may be the requirement, which can be best followed upon consulting a dermatologist and following medical advice,” says Bharija.
Still, Indian consumers have always needed a reason to believe. This used to be driven by glamour or Bollywood, then influencers, but now it is slowly moving towards science-driven beliefs.
“In this context, trials become important. But there is a lack of understanding regarding the proper methodology of trials, educating customers to influence purchasing behaviour is critical,” adds Santhanam.