In the world of whiskey aficionados, few names resonate with as much authority and reverence as Jim Murray. Renowned for his unparalleled expertise and unapologetic honesty, Murray stands as a titan in the realm of spirits’ critique. With decades of experience under his belt, he has cemented himself as the foremost authority on whiskey through his acclaimed annual publication, the Whisky Bible. Within its pages, Murray dissects and evaluates thousands of whiskies from around the globe, offering insights that distillers and enthusiasts alike eagerly anticipate. His discerning palate and candid assessments have made him both a trusted guide for enthusiasts and a formidable force within the industry, shaping trends and perceptions with each edition.
In this exclusive interview, we delve deep into the mind of Jim Murray, uncovering the motivations, inspirations, and challenges behind his illustrious career. From his earliest encounters with whiskey to the evolution of his tasting methodology, Murray shares the intimate details of his journey. Moreover, we explore his thoughts on the current state of the whiskey world, touching on topics ranging from the rise of craft distilleries to the impact of global trends on traditional whiskey-making regions. Join us as we gain unprecedented insight into the life and work of one of the most influential figures in the world of spirits: Jim Murray.
You share what prompted your transition from journalism to the realm of whiskey.
I was pretty tired of wine writers writing nonsense about whisky. Whisky is not wine. And distillers, when looking to get a new brand known, would have no alternative other than to invite wine writers and introduce them to the brand. Even if the wine writer wouldn’t know a good whisky if it bit his or her leg off. I have been visiting distilleries since 1975, tasting every single whisky I could lay my hands on since that time, built up a pretty formidable knowledge and, encouraged by Jim Milne, the legendary J&B blender, decided to offer a more informed opinion than the public was perhaps getting. So I turned my back on hard news and investigations and became the world’s first full-time whisky writer. That was in 1992. It took a few years to create a market to write for but I think my decision was justified.
In “The Complete Book of Whisky,” you featured a dedicated chapter on Indian whiskies. How do you perceive the current state of Indian whiskies compared to their international counterparts, and what potential do you see for them?
When I wrote the Complete Book of Whisky, published in 1997, Indian whisky was still in its infancy so far as the understanding of maturing spirit in hot climates was concerned. As well as marketing it, as Scotch cast a very long and dark shadow over its Indian counterpart.
However, some major changes were just around the corner and it was Amrut, followed by Paul John, who proved not only that the maturing of malt whisky in India had been mastered but the blending of the malts improved to maximise the quality of what was available from those distilleries. I’m pleased and honoured to say I did play a small part in helping that come about as a consultant.
Now, whenever possible, in blind tastings around the world I include an Indian whisky. It will rarely be singled out by anyone in the audience as that. And when I ask people to vote for their favourite whisky of the evening it will be voted above most if not all of the Scotches on show.
What factors contribute to the success of Indian whiskies in today’s market?
People are far more alive to the possibilities of great whiskies from unlikely places around the globe than they once were. Three decades ago it was widely accepted that Scotland, Ireland, Kentucky and to a lesser extent Canada were the only places where good whisky was made. Japan was looked at with suspicion. India was barely on anyone’s whisky radar.
This has changed significantly. After Amrut Fusion got the Third Best Whisky in the World in the 2010 Whisky Bible and Japan won it a few years later, those two countries have taken off significantly. We can now add Wales, England, and Australia also as major suppliers of world-class whisky.
So people are much more open to the possibilities of Indian Whisky than they once were. That includes whisky shops worldwide. The fact that Paul John consistently offers magnificent malts and Amrut has continued with their programme of raising quality it has now been proved that great Indian whisky is a constant. It is fascinating to see the other Indian whiskies fighting hard to match these very high levels. I suspect in a few years there will be even more excellent Indian whiskies for people to discover.
The debate between single malt and blend whiskies has persisted for years. Do you have a stance on this ongoing debate?
A great single malt is a blend. You take malts from the same distillery, but you create layers of personality by the percentage of what type you ask, different ages, and from which position in the warehouse they had matured. So, a single malt should be structured, in the same way as a blended whisky using column still – non-pot still malt – whisky.
My stance is very simple. A great whisky is great, irrespective of whether it is a blend or single malt. And an awful whisky is awful – even if it is a single malt. People should avoid whisky snobbery – in other words believing some whiskies are below them. I would drink a blend over a single malt if that blend is better.
Is there such a thing as a poorly made-whisky?
Yes. Absolutely. Come to my tasting lab and let me show you a great number. Often the whisky is made well. But then put into poor casks for maturation. The result is the same: awful whisky. Which is a crime in my book.
Could you offer some guidelines on the dos and don’ts of enjoying whiskey?
Drink whisky whichever way makes you happy. But at least allow a whisky to show what it is made of and the depth of its personality by adding neither ice nor water and tasting it over time as the glass warms in your hands. This is known as the Murray Method – each of the 25,000 whiskies I have revived for the Whisky Bible is tasted this way. People who encounter this method for the first time are shocked at how the whisky changes and the complexity that unfolds…
Do you view mixing coke and ice with whisky or scotch as sacrilegious?
Yes. But people are individuals with the gift of choice and it is not my duty to tell people what to do. I can only respectfully advise them on how to get the most out of their whisky. And adding Coke and ice with their whisky, is not it…
Which countries do you consider to be emerging forces in the world of whisky today?
India, Australia, and England.
When you’re not enjoying whisky, what beverage do you prefer?
Beer and rum. Though never together.
Given the numerous tastings you conduct, how do you ensure that your health remains unaffected?
Every whisky I taste professionally I spit. I have been drunk only about five times in my entire life – and never once when working. When working with whisky all day, it is unlikely I will have a whisky that evening. However, if I’ve had a few days of tasting, I might enjoy a whisky while watching an old black and white film from the 1940s and ‘50s. But my alcohol consumption is pretty low.
You’ve tasted a vast array of whiskies throughout your career. Are there any lesser-known or underrated whiskies that you believe deserve more recognition?
Yes, and I normally point them out in the Whisky Bible. Some malts we never see enough of because the blenders for the bigger houses need it for their vast blends and there is just not enough for it to go around as a single malt, also. Whiskies like Clynelish fall into that category. There is also a magnificent malt called An Scoc from the Knockdhu distillery in Scotland which I match for most but just doesn’t get much of a marketing budget. And, of course, there are countless whiskies from around the world, far too numerous to list here…
As an author of several acclaimed whisky guides, how do you approach the task of evaluating and rating different whiskies?
I treat them each as equals, as I do people, irrespective of their background or nationality. I use the Murray Method, as I described above, and by using a temperature change I see the whiskies in a near three-dimensional way. It is as fascinating as it is revealing…
What’s next?
For the industry? To see off a possible recession and not fall into the trap of bubble and burst which has been a regular factor in the whisky industry for the last 150 years… For me: to taste, to write, to blend, to give shows around the world: to just keep on Whiskying! Oh, yes!
