By Pankaj Fanase
In the heart of New Delhi City, on the night of 9th September, beneath the glittering chandeliers of the ‘Bharat Mandapam’, something extraordinary was brewing. It wasn’t just the usual diplomatic discussions or policy debates that filled the hallways; it was the aroma of a culinary masterpiece, a fusion of flavours from every corner of the nation. At a diplomatic summit of G-20, world leaders, diplomats, and delegates found themselves drawn together not just by matters of state but by the magnetic allure of food. As the night unfolded, it became clear that amidst the delicious confluence of flavours and dishes, the barriers of language, politics, and ideology melted away. In the world of diplomacy, where words often serve as barriers, food emerged as the universal language.
The Evolution of Gastrodiplomacy
Gastro diplomacy, a fusion of “gastronomy” and “public diplomacy,” encompasses a series of soft power strategies that blend cultural diplomacy with culinary diplomacy aiming to reinforce perceptions of a country, enhance the allure of its culture, people, and values, and yield economic benefits. Its evolution can be traced back to the hunter and gatherer stage of human civilization. Archaeologists and anthropologists believe that communal eating has played such a crucial role in our continued development precisely because of its ability to facilitate bonding. It’s no longer just about combining various ingredients to tantalize taste buds; it has become a scientific endeavour, exploring how the chemistry of our digestive system influences decision-making. According to psychologist Prof. Robin Dunbar, “The act of eating together triggers the endorphin system in the brain, and endorphins play a crucial role in social bonding among humans.” This forms the foundation of the modern concept of culinary diplomacy.
To delve even deeper, gastro diplomacy is not solely about stimulating our sense of taste; it also has intrinsic connections with history, culture, economy, and politics. Food has evolved from being merely a means of diplomacy to becoming a central objective of diplomacy. In the 21st century, the resurgence of identity has had a profound impact on cuisines as well. Readers are likely familiar with the debates surrounding the origin of dishes like ‘rasagulla’ and the memes on social media that link culinary identity to foods such as Vada pav, Dhokla, and Dosa. Interestingly, the positive aspect of this culinary identity debate is that, thus far, it has not taken on a toxic nature. Instead, it has created a space for embracing diversity and bridging gaps at various social gatherings. Even as controversies over identity, such as the Mughal identity, heat up across the nation, no one has disowned Mughal cuisines. People’s consciousness is increasingly inclined towards exploring a wider array of cuisines beyond the global dominance of Pizza and Burger. The growing popularity of Sushi, Chinese cuisine, and other Southeast Asian dishes, along with the enduring fame of classics like butter chicken, highlights this curiosity.
India, renowned in the West for centuries as the land of spices, couldn’t remain on the side-lines when discussions about culinary identity were taking place. The recent G-20 summit provided a fitting platform for these discussions. In the realm of diversity, India stands unrivalled among nations. This remarkable diversity finds its most exquisite expression in the menu of an official state dinner. While conventional menus may lean towards commercial cuisine, protocol menus take on a more strategic role. They begin by weaving cultural elements, including the spiritual values of a society, and accentuate dishes that resonate with the country’s historical narrative. The menu unveiled at the summit was a true testament to India’s rich and diverse culinary heritage, a testament to the heart of Indian culture. The profound emphasis on various millets, coupled with the extensive use of lentils across the courses, speaks volumes about India’s unwavering commitment to its indigenous identity. This commitment goes beyond mere symbolism; it is deeply rooted in the very processes of food production, processing and consumption.
A Menu with a Story
To delve into the specifics of the menu from the official dinner on September 9th, it becomes evident that it was meticulously crafted to celebrate this diversity. The starter, ‘Paatram,’ composed of foxtail millet leaves, pays homage to indigenous millet varieties. Foxtail millet, once a staple in South India but now lesser-known, underscores the economic significance of reviving its production, supporting exports, and promoting sustainability. This culinary choice not only triggers taste buds but also underscores the importance of preserving traditional crops. The choice of bread, with ‘Mumbai Pao’ influenced by Portuguese culinary traditions standing alongside ‘Bakarkhani’ representing the legacy of the Mughal Empire, symbolizes the cultural amalgamation that has occurred over centuries, adding depth to India’s culinary heritage. The dessert, ‘Madhurima,’ a pudding crafted from Barnyard millet, carries a deep spiritual significance. It is the only millet allowed for consumption during religious fasting, showcasing the profound influence of spirituality on Indian gastronomy. The selection of beverages, including Kahwa, Filter coffee, and Tea, transports diners on a flavourful journey across India’s diverse regions. Each sip encapsulates the unique aromas and tastes of Kashmir, Nilgiri, and Bengal, showcasing the inclusivity of regional diversity on the global stage. Lastly, the paan-flavored chocolate leaves serve as a testament to India’s rich heritage. Paan, a traditional mouth freshener, has deep cultural roots. It’s a sweet ending that connects diners with India’s cultural legacy.
Gastrodiplomacy: A New Age of Diplomacy
In global affairs, the days of relying solely on hard power to influence nations are long gone. In this era of globalization, countries are seeking innovative ways to connect with and influence the global public through the soft power approach. Effective public diplomacy demands a smart and forward-looking strategy that incorporates inventive methods, and cuisine has emerged as a potent torchbearer in this endeavor. The culinary diplomacy showcased at the G-20 summit marks the beginning of India’s journey in this realm. The G-20 represents a staggering 85% of the world economy, 80% of global trade, 80% of the world’s GDP, encompasses two-thirds of the global population, and spans nearly half of the world’s land. It’s not just an effort to boost New Delhi’s soft power but also a means to enhance exports and tourism. While other nations have already embarked on dedicated efforts, such as Peru’s ‘Cocina Peruana Para El Mundo’ campaign and Thailand’s Global Thai program, it is now India’s turn to harness the potential of culinary diplomacy. It’s an empirical truth that “In diplomacy, the way to a nation’s heart is often through its stomach.” This culinary journey not only delights palates but also builds bridges and fosters understanding, making it a powerful tool for diplomacy in the modern world.
The author is Research Scholar, CIPOD, School of International Studies, JNU, New Delhi.
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