Who says a man’s (mind) is his fortune? It seems that nowadays, it’s his grooming kit. The days of ‘just a splash of cologne and a quick shave’ appear to be behind us. Men seem to be taking their grooming as seriously as their careers, which has contributed to the rise of male grooming brands. From skincare routines to well-kept beards, the male grooming market appears to be growing. It’s no longer just women who need a drawer for their beauty products; it seems that men have recognised that looking sharp is no longer a female-only privilege, but rather a more universal pursuit. According to IMARC Group, the India male grooming products market size reached $ 2.1 billion in 2023. Looking ahead, the market is expected to grow to $ 4.1 billion by 2032, exhibiting a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 7.2% from 2024 to 2032. Riding on the same wave, Fair and Handsome from the house of Emami, which launched its male-specific fairness cream and facewash back in 2004 when male grooming was not yet a trend, capitalised on it. Adapting to the market, the company recently rebranded the brand to ‘Smart and Handsome’ with the intention of expanding its product portfolio.
“The idea was conceived back in 2000, and we launched Fair and Handsome in 2004. At that time, there were no dedicated men’s grooming brands in India. The concept of male beauty and personal care products didn’t exist. When we launched, it was an instant success because men were using products meant for women. By 2005, the brand became a household name, and we expanded our reach across India, regaining market share. Since then, we have remained the market leader in the fairness cream category,” Mohan Goenka, vice chairman and whole-time director, Emami Ltd, told Shailja Tiwari.
Goenka further stated that they faced competition from numerous multinational companies, but despite their efforts, Fair and Handsome remained synonymous with men’s grooming. Over the years, the brand had top celebrities, from Shah Rukh Khan to Salman Khan, endorsing it. And perhaps big names like SRK and Salman Khan have given the brand more visibility and increased people’s trust in the product. As a result, they were always considered leaders in the market.
A key vantage point for Fair and Handsome’s success has been its early mover advantage. Another major advantage was signing big celebrities as brand ambassadors. Additionally, the company positioned its products at mass-market pricing, with small sizes priced as low as Rs 10, which has helped it capture a significant share of the market. Goenka highlighted that nearly 70% of their sales come from products priced between Rs 10 to Rs 30.
Unlike premium-priced men’s grooming products, Fair and Handsome has been able to reach a wider, mass-market audience, making this pricing strategy a key strength. “I believe this is a smart move. When Glow & Lovely, formerly Fair & Lovely, underwent its rebranding, it was anticipated that Emami might follow suit. While a name like ‘Glow and Handsome’ might have been an option, it could have appeared too similar and positioned Emami as merely following the trend in the male grooming category. The chosen rebranding as ‘Smart and Handsome’ feels more distinct and strategic,” Harish Bijoor, business and brand strategy specialist and founder, Harish Bijoor Consults Inc, opined.
Recent years have been challenging for the brand due to the entry of new D2C and global brands in the segment. One of the D2C brands, The Man Company, was recently acquired by Emami. However, Goenka emphasised that there would be no conflict between the two brands, as their target audiences are different. The Man Company will focus on the premium range, while Smart and Handsome will cater to the masstige segment. Smart and Handsome also benefits from its already established offline distribution network, with over 15 lakh outlets across India.
With this rebranding, the brand now has ample opportunities to expand its product range, including face wash, scrub, moisturiser, sunscreen, shower gel, shampoo, beard grooming products, and more.
‘Smart’ moves,‘Handsome’ results
As per the company, it is aiming to tap into the fast-growing male grooming market with a target of reaching Rs 1,000 crore in revenue within the next 3-4 years. While the Indian male grooming market is estimated at Rs 18,000 crore, Emami is positioning itself to capture a significant share by catering to the mass market, particularly within the masstige category.
According to Goenka, existing brands in the market largely target the premium segment, and Emami plans to differentiate itself by offering products that are both accessible and aspirational. Experts believe that this strategy could prove effective if Emami can meet the growing demand for affordable grooming solutions while maintaining quality and brand appeal. However, success will depend on how well it resonates with the masses and competes with both premium and emerging brands. “This rebranding feels like an attempt to align with the times. Finally, a step away from India’s long-standing fairness fixation. That said, the word ‘smart’ comes across as an overused advertising trope. A bolder, more creative approach could have made a stronger statement! If you see the name change has given them an opportunity to enter other spaces. Yes, it might be a red ocean. But, that’s how you expand, no!,” Shubham Gune, an advertising expert and founder, Hinglish, said.
Recently, the brand was in the news due to a 12-year-long legal battle over its ‘Fair and Handsome’ product. The Delhi consumer court fined Emami Rs 14.5 lakh for misleading claims suggesting the product could make users fairer. Despite the ongoing questions over building a product on fairness and linking it to success Emami claims the rebranding isn’t a response to this narrative. Goenka explained that the rebranding was a strategic decision to adapt to evolving market trends and expand the brand’s appeal, not a result of the court’s ruling. The company emphasised that there was no court mandate requiring them to change the name.
Numbers talk!
What is the ultimate nirvana for businesses? Money and fame, most likely. Fair and Handsome holds a dominant 65% market share in the Rs 250-crore male fairness cream segment and also has a presence in the Rs 500-crore men’s face wash category, bringing its total addressable market to around Rs 750 crore, according to Goenka. By expanding into the broader male grooming segment, the brand is poised to tap into the Rs 18,000-crore market. Currently, Fair and Handsome contributes 10% to Emami’s total revenue, and Goenka expects this share to increase to 15-16% in the next three years. With the rebranding, the company plans to allocate around Rs 15 crore over the next two months for media and marketing, with an annual marketing budget of Rs 35 crore approx.
The company has brought on Kartik Aaryan as its brand ambassador to target a younger demographic aged 18 to 36 year old. In terms of distribution, the brand plans to leverage online channels alongside its offline presence, particularly with new product launches starting next quarter. Geographically, the rebranded focus will be on urban and semi-urban markets.
Brand-Wagon ride!
The brand released two ad videos featuring Kartik Aaryan to showcase its rebranding and highlight what ‘SMART’ represents in ‘Smart and Handsome.’ While the ads appear somewhat conventional and lack creativity, Goenka believes they resonate with younger audiences who aspire to emulate Aaryan and moving forward as they release more products, ads will flow. According to him, the ads deliver a premium feel with Aaryan in his signature style. “A brilliant opportunity. A decent concept. And shoddy execution. When I first heard about this rebranding, I was genuinely excited. But after seeing the execution? Fairly disappointed. A tailor-made acronym out of SMART could’ve been a game-changer. But this doesn’t quite do justice. Here’s hoping for smart and handsome creatives from Emami in the future,” Gune said.
Goenka confirmed that the formulations of existing products remain unchanged for now, with only the brand name being rebranded. However, he stated that as the brand expands its portfolio with new products, it will consider evolving and incorporating improved ingredients to better meet consumer needs. “Our marketing plan includes both ATL and BTL strategies, with a strong emphasis on digital platforms. Around 40% of our marketing budget will be dedicated to digital efforts, while the remaining 60% will go toward traditional channels like TV. We also plan to be very aggressive with college activations as part of our BTL initiatives,” he said.
With its legacy and mass appeal, Smart and Handsome is casting its net wider in a growing market. However, whether it can haul in the smaller fish and outmanoeuvre newer players remains to be seen.