The row over global fashion brand Prada using Kolhapuri chappals in its summer collection without formally crediting Indian artisans has intensified. A Public Interest Litigation (PIL) has now been filed in the Bombay High Court, demanding both a public apology and compensation for the artisans who have traditionally made the GI-tagged footwear.
The PIL, filed on July 2 by Ganesh S Hingmire, a leading Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) advocate, alleges that Prada has commercially used a Geographical Indication (GI)-tagged product, the Kolhapuri chappal, without permission or proper acknowledgement, violating both intellectual property norms and the cultural integrity of the artisans involved.
“This Public Interest Litigation seeks directions and appropriate reliefs, including an injunction and damages/compensation for the unauthorised commercialisation of a GI-tagged product, which has caused significant harm to the community traditionally associated with it, particularly in Maharashtra State,” the PIL states.
What triggered the controversy
Earlier this year, Prada featured leather slip-ons in its Summer 2024 menswear collection that closely resembled Kolhapuri chappals, a traditional handmade footwear style originating from Maharashtra and Karnataka. These sandals, protected under India’s GI (Geographical Indication) registry, have deep cultural and economic significance.
Following public backlash on social media accusing Prada of plagiarising indigenous Indian design, the brand issued a statement saying the collection was “inspired by Indian artisans.” However, the petitioners argue that this response was inadequate and lacked accountability.
“The Kolhapuri Chappal is the cultural symbol of Maharashtra and having special public sentiments attached to it. The brand has privately accepted that its collection is ‘inspired by Indian artisans,’ however, this acknowledgement surfaced only after facing widespread backlash on various social media platforms,” the petition noted.
“This acknowledgement was given to the private entity and not to the applicant, makers of Kolhapuri Chappal, GI Registry, Government or the public at large. The brand has not yet issued any formal apology along with any damages, compensation and entitled remedy, and the statement appears to be merely a superficial attempt to deflect criticism.”
Wider implications
Beyond seeking relief from Prada, the PIL also calls on the government to take stronger action to protect India’s traditional and GI-tagged products from unauthorised global commercialisation.“The Petitioners state that the present PIL seeks a direction to the government entities and authorities for protecting the rights of producers/makers of Kolhapuri Chappal and appropriate reliefs to safeguard the cultural heritage, economic interests, and intellectual property rights of indigenous artisans,” the plea stated.
The case is expected to be heard in the Bombay High Court in the coming weeks.