I am jealous. Apparently stars in the South get temples, I get fan mail. Sure I am no star but a few groupies would always be a welcome thought. And in an effort to earn my stars I am having a go at sharing some notions that I have come to cultivate apropos South Indian food and pairing it with wines.
First of all, there is nothing as South Indian food. It is four distinct states with their own cuisine and sub-cuisines. Dosa is not main course, nor is Idli. South Indian food is as ignorant an assumption as the ?North Indians are Punjabi? thumb-rule.
I recently came to know that spices weren?t used till as late as the 15th century, chillies included. So, essentially Southern dishes originating on the Sangam (Tamilian) Plateau were based on peppercorn, mustard seeds, turmeric, curry leaves, dry ginger powder, and coriander seeds and tamarind and coconut components. Between these basic few, all flavours could be concocted and the chef had a boastful list of about 250 dishes. No onions, tomatoes or garlic! The flavours were extremely complex and a svelte New Zealand Pinot Noir could have been just that thing. Else, I could have even settled happily for an Italian Sangiovese red. Chettinad may be more at home with Barbaresco or rich Barbera style wines.
Kerala cuisine which involves a lot more coastal influence can be spicier and hotter. But go away from the coast and you find other meats, including beef. The chilli fry is today a roadside speciality and if being paired, I would go for a nice soft rounded wine ? oaked Chardonnays, Chardonnay-Semillon blends from Australia and the likes. Even Mophala cuisine could work with such wines.
From Mangalore to Mysore, Karnataka has many styles of food. It draws extensively from the cuisines of the neighbouring states. Of special mention would be that delicate little number called the lady fish which is often served as a starter and could go even with red wines, given its spiced-up flavours.
Andhra is definitely the hottest of the lot with the famous chilly centre town Guntoor being in the vicinity. But the food here can be different depending on which part of the state you happen to be treading: the Telangana parts have a rich Persian influence whereas the general food has more Dravidian influences. The former being richer and meatier, the latter being more, let?s just say, Saatvik. The kebabs would be ideal with big boisterous reds ? a meat course had on its own, full of fiery spice but broken down well with a nice big red. The Biryani here is something of a mythical delicacy as also are other rich meaty dishes like Nihari and Haleem: all best with medium-to-full bodied fruit-forward yet rich reds.
Beer with Indian food is not always a bad idea, but have good beer; proper flavourful beer. Recently, during my tastings of an upcoming brand called Geist, I came across some nice brews, the kind where one could write tasting notes, mark nuances even. No it wasn?t flavoured beer; it was gastronomic beer and pairing food with such is absolutely possible.
One last thing, do not try and pair Indian food with bad wines, ever. You can?t do justice to Mozart on a 3-octave keyboard. Similarly, if you will try and pair such deserving and delicate foods you need wines that can match up, support and ameliorate the experience, not something that is either too distinct to be paired or too feeble to sustain.
I don?t know how much I have helped simplify as perhaps complicate. Well, intrigue is the start of the best learning processes. I?ll have my temple in black granite please.