No one talks about the home of golf in the UK. Referendums and independence (or the lack of it) aside, the home of ?gowf?, as it was referred to in an Act of the Scottish Parliament in 1457 in the reign of James II, has always been Scotland. That Act forbade the playing of ?gowf? (and ?fut bal?), warning transgressors of arrest by the king?s officers and a trial by the barony courts. Fortunately for the world, those early golfers continued to risk life and limb, literally, to indulge their love for the game. And today, golfers around the world pore wistfully over photographs of St Andrews and dream of teeing it up at the iconic Road Hole, and posing on the hallowed Swilcan Bridge. Who can forget Tom Watson stopping at the bridge to kiss the centuries-old stones at what was possibly his last British Open at the Old Course in 2010?
Let?s just daydream once more: there you are, outfitted in layers of wool and rain gear, a chilly breeze blowing on a grey day, hand warmers in pockets, golf ball teed up on the first at the Old Course in St Andrews? perfect.
If this seems like one of those attention-deflection trick statements, then you?ve obviously paid attention to the wrong bits and missed the most significant part. The inclement weather bit (although accurate) is insignificant to those afflicted with the golf bug: the only element of consequence in that statement is the bit about the Old Course at St Andrews. That sacrosanct home of golf, where King James IV dropped by the pro shop to pick up a new set of clubs in 1506 and where nature and wind were the only architects until Old Tom Morris created the current layout in the 19th century, is not a golf course as much as it is a shrine. And sadly, that?s why you might have to wait over 18 months to get a game.
It?s not just the history. Sure, golf has been played on the links courses of St Andrews since 1400 AD and it?s an inseparable part of local life and culture in this part of Scotland. But as the 600-year history of the game at St Andrews has unfolded, what used to be a rudimentary course?winding its way through heather and bushes?has evolved into multiple championship layouts.
Not only do visiting golfers have the opportunity to soak in the tradition of the game, they can choose to do so from no less than 11 courses. With 117 holes, St Andrews Links is the largest golfing complex in Europe. All 18-hole courses can be booked in advance even though there?s a long waiting list of about a year and a half for those wanting to play at the hallowed grounds of the Old Course.
St Andrews is quite compact and all the 11 courses are within 10 minutes by car from the town centre, which means you?ll be playing more and travelling less.
It?s not just about playing though: golf buffs can visit the Royal & Ancient which runs the Open Championship and now governs the rules of golf everywhere except the US. Even if you can?t get a round at the Old Course, make sure you tee it up at the ?New Course?: ?new? is relative at St Andrews?the course was designed by legendary Old Tom Morris in 1895. With its incomparable heritage and current relevance to the game, St Andrews continues to be a premier destination for golfers from all over the world.
It would make sense, if you have come this far and got that tee-time at St Andrews (and especially if you?ve not), to make a detour to Ulster. Hop on to a car and drive down from Belfast to Counties Antrim and Down where major winners?Rory McIlroy, Graeme Mc Dowell and Darren Clarke?cut their golfing teeth. The breathtakingly-rugged Royal Portrush and Royal County Down temper their brutal tests with spectacular views of the coast and are consistently ranked amongst the top courses in the world. Besides these two hallowed courses which require prior bookings), the best way to go about playing golf here is to have no fixed itinerary. A car can be rented for as little as ?20 a day and golf courses lurk around every bend, tucked away between the many lakes and the dramatic coastline. It?s entirely possible to play small, quirky inexpensive layouts, of which, unquestionably, the most spectacular is Ardglass, situated on the south-east coast of County Down.
Several tees and greens overlook the ocean at Ardglass, giving the layout a rugged, part-links, part-cliff-top feel. It is also relatively easy to play and has the oldest clubhouse in the world?a Gothic castle-like structure dating back to the 12th century. Sitting in the clubhouse on the first floor with the locals, quaffing pints of Guinness after the round and gazing at the sea just on the left of the outline of a lighthouse in the distance is postcard stuff.
There is no better place to stay in St Andrews than the eponymous Old Course hotel which overlooks the 17th?Road Hole on the Old Course and the Royal and Ancient clubhouse. Each of the 125 en-suite guestrooms, including the 17 suites, have unrivalled views over either the Old Course or the surrounding countryside. Summer tariffs begin at ?220 onwards.
A golfer, Meraj Shah also writes about the game