Skincare has moved beyond cleanser, toner and moisturiser, thanks to greater awareness, and Instagram. Products like vitamin C serum, retinol and hyaluronic acid, to name a few, are increasingly becoming common in self-care cabinets. However, information overload can cause confusion, and what works for someone else might not work for you. Hence, some knowledge of what makes up these products—their chemical composition, benefits and side effects—can offer you more guns to raise your skincare game.
Retinol
“One of the most used and studied anti-ageing ingredients, retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A,” says Dr Navjot Singh Arora, consultant—dermatology, HCMCT Manipal Hospital, Dwarka. Interestingly, it was originally marketed as an anti-acne treatment in the 70s, but quickly proved to have considerable anti-ageing effects, he adds.
The molecules, which make up retinol, trickle to the dermis, the middle layer of the skin, where they help neutralise the free radicals. It helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and enlarged pores.
“It also has a sort of exfoliating effect,” says Dr Arora, and hence, stimulates skin cell turnover. “Dull and dry skin makes way for new, brighter and more even-toned skin, armed with increased levels of collagen and elastin. The thicker skin is stronger, smoother and has fewer overall imperfections. “Thus, even relatively problem-free skin can have radiating effects from retinol,” he explains.
Explaining the process, Dr Seema Oberoi Lall, consultant—dermatology, CK Birla Hospital, Gurugram, says, “The skin cells are called the keratinocytes and the upper layer of the skin, the epidermis, is constantly renewed. This renewal slows down as one ages and leads to dullness of skin, depleted skin renewal and less light reflection from the surface of skin, which also leads to sunspot pigmentation and dullness. The skin cycle gets normal or regular with usage of retinol derivatives as they regulate cell growth. Retinol improves cell differentiation and speeds up the skin renewal process. This leads to a fresher and more youthful skin complexion, counteracting the effects of ageing.”
Another benefit is on the deeper layer of the skin. “The deeper layer of the skin is called the dermis. Indirect effects are noticed by regular use of retinoids on this layer as well because it improves the skin collagen and the elastin fibre growth,” says Dr Lall. Notably, retinol is a type of retinoid.
“Regular use of retinoids can help in the improvement of collagen and elastin remodelling, providing new fibres and better strength to the skin,” she adds.
Despite the myriad benefits, retinol should be used at night due to the risk of sun sensitivity during the day.
In the market, retinol is available as cream as well as serum, and what to buy depends on one’s skin type. “Those with slightly oily skin, a serum-based preparation is better. And for those with normal to dry skin, it is better to use a cream base,” explains Dr Lall.
Notably, this is also one of its side-effects that can lead to dryness. “Apart from that, it also makes your skin sensitive to sun, so one can have allergies, irritation, and redness on exposure to sun. These side-effects can be really scary,” the expert says, adding that they get patients in emergency OPDs with usage of retinoids, and they land up with allergies and irritative skin issues. “Of course, people who have excessively dry and sensitive skin, who have a lot of outdoor activities, are more prone to such side-effects,” she adds.
Being cautious and well-informed can help. “You need to identify what your skin type is,” says Dr Lall. “If it is sensitive skin, it is better to involve your dermatologist in deciding what would be the best for you. If you are choosing one of the OTC brands, then just make sure that your skin is nicely moisturised and hydrated,” she adds.
Hyaluronic acid
Another product known for its anti-ageing properties is hyaluronic acid. Interestingly, this gel-like substance is naturally occurring and “is the most abundant type of the Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) found in the dermis,” says Dr Arora. Notably, GAGs are long unbranched carbohydrates called polysaccharides. “It is produced by the fibroblast along with collagen and elastin and forms the extra cellular matrix (ECM), a woven fibrous structure providing structure to the skin,” she explains. “As it is made up of polysaccharide and disaccharide chains to form a coiled structure, it has the ability to hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water and provides hydration and volume to the dermis,” she adds. In short, it keeps the skin hydrated.
It is also vital to maintaining healthy collagen and elastin. “It is important for cell growth, cell receptor function and adhesion within the skin. It plays a vital role in cell-to-cell communication and wound healing. So, it’s clear to see how important hyaluronic acid is in maintaining healthy skin and preventing premature ageing,” Dr Arora says.
Multiple brands sell hyaluronic acid in the market. However, it is always better to consult a dermatologist before incorporating it into your skincare routine.
Vitamin C serum
If you are even slightly into the skincare game, you must have heard of the so-called elixir called vitamin C serum. Although the vitamin is a part of the diet, it does not mean it goes right to the skin. Hence, topical application is considered. This ingredient, said to be safe for all skin types, comes with myriad benefits. It may help slow early skin ageing, prevent sun damage and improve the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots and acne, as per Harvard Health Publishing, the consumer health education division of Harvard Medical School in the US. Notably, it is an antioxidant, which means it fights harmful free radicals (toxins) that come in contact with your skin from external sources like air pollution, or from inside the body as a result of normal processes like your metabolism, it adds.
Testament to its anti-ageing properties, several studies have shown that it improves fine lines and wrinkles and improves skin texture and appearance. While it is often said to cause skin brightening, more research is needed into this.
Despite its multiple skin health benefits, it is better to ensure any side-effects. And for that, try applying the product on a small area, such as the forearm, and wait for about 24 hours. If you experience no side-effects, apply on your face.
According to Harvard Health, the product is generally applied once or twice per day. A general rule to follow here is to cleanse your face, apply a toner, use the vitamin C serum, moisturise.
Although the product is readily available in the market, it is better to buy one from your dermatologist’s office or from a verified and well-known brand.
Sunscreen
While sunscreen is a more common skincare product than the rest, a better understanding of its components can help in making better choices. Speaking of its chemical composition, Dr Prateek Nagrani, dermatologist at Max Hospital, Shalimar Bagh, New Delhi, says, “Sunscreens can be either physical, containing mainly micronised zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, or chemical, with ingredients like tinosorb-M, tinosorb-S, avobenzone, oxybenzone and octinoxate.” Apart from offering sun protection, it also helps in “delaying photoageing and development of fine lines and wrinkles. When used religiously, sunscreens have also been reported as a potent modality for prevention of certain skin cancers,” the expert explains.
Not just creams and serums, these are also available as gels, lotions and sprays. “Creams, gels, sticks and serums are mainly for the face and, depending on your skin type and your daily routine, your dermatologist will be able to recommend one or a combination of these for you. Sprays and lotions are mainly used on the body for sun protection,” Dr Nagrani explains.
Sunscreen basics
* Apart from sun protection, sunscreen also helps in delaying photoageing, development of fine lines and wrinkles
* When used religiously, sunscreens have also been reported to reduce risks of certain skin cancers
* Apply a liberal amount of sunscreen on your face and body; reapply after every three hours, even when indoors
* Don’t apply your sunscreen just before stepping out in the sun, as chemical sunscreens take 10-20 min to form a protective layer on your skin
* Don’t blindly follow the SPF rating. Your dermatologist is the best to recommend one based on your skin type
— Dr Prateek Nagrani, dermatologist at Max Hospital, Shalimar Bagh, New Delhi
