If you have the notion that face oil is only meant to combat winter dryness and is the best winter care regime, think again. Today, much has been proven by medical experts on skin types and how much our skin needs in terms of moisturisation or what we call as ‘instant care’ to replenish the lost ‘natural oil’ from skin during the day.
Even in the sweltering heat, face oils are known for rewarding skin-care solutions on various skin types. Whether it is good or not is still a point of debate in the beauty industry, with some claiming they are game-changers, while others dismissing them as nothing more than a passing trend. But the truth lies somewhere in between.
Using face oil is not a one-size-fits-all solution for the skin. As per Dr Navya Handa, consultant dermatologist and cosmetologist, Primus Super Speciality Hospital, Delhi-NCR, numerous factors such as the type of oil, skin type and individual’s customised skincare needs define whether the face oil will act effectively or not.
“While face oils can provide numerous benefits, including improved hydration, increased skin elasticity and a more radiant complexion, ultimately, the key is to find the right oil for your skin type and incorporate it into a well-rounded skincare routine. So, rather than dismissing face oils as a myth or a miracle, let’s embrace them for what they are—a valuable tool in pursuing healthy, glowing skin,” says Handa.
What is face oil?
Face oils are formulated with a unique blend of therapeutic and aromatic oils that not only offer nourishment but also antioxidant benefits, helping repair and rejuvenate the skin. “These oils act as effective emollients, providing moisture and locking it in for a healthy-looking complexion. Certain oils are tailored to address specific skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation, dullness and wrinkles. Their ability to lock in moisture provides an added benefit, making the skin look and feel healthy,” says Vandini Gupta, founder of Mary Cohr, a global beauty brand.
But facial oils are essentially plant-based oils, which can either be composed of a single ingredient or a combination of various ingredients. Many skincare companies offer facial oils with additional ingredients that can help nourish and treat specific skin conditions. However, there is a misconception among people that facial oils can repair pores, provide glowing skin or act as a cleanser.
“This trend has led to a misunderstanding of the proper use of facial oils and serums. In the field of chemistry and biology, terms are defined precisely, and skincare products are all about how substances interact with the skin. Many people believe that facial oils can hydrate their skin, but it is important to understand that no water is found in oil. In fact, oil is hydrophobic and does not attract or add water to the skin, so it cannot provide hydration or moisture. Additionally, not all facial oils are beneficial for the skin, despite the fact that some may appear to be a healthy, natural option. Some oils available in the market can be comedogenic, causing acne and pore blockage, and they can disrupt the skin’s natural lipid ratio, which includes ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. It is crucial to select oils according to one’s skin type to avoid potential issues,” says Anjula Masurkar, clinical director, Entod Beauty London, which offers research-based dermatological therapies.
For those who have acne, using facial oils can increase the likelihood of developing whiteheads, blackheads and irritation. However, jojoba oil and organic coconut oil can be suitable for use on other parts of the body to treat dryness and itching.
There are several brands that have introduced face oils with various formulations for skin types. Examples are Bakuchiol Slip from Deepika Padukone’s self-care and beauty brand 82°E, Dr G face oil and Global Beauty Secrets.
Trend or fad?
Oil is more natural, closer to an organic way of skin care but experts like Dr Renita Rajan, celebrity cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Render Skin Clinic in Chennai, feels it is only a trend. “Caucasian skin is known to be naturally dry, while Asian skin is known to be naturally oily. So, yes, it is a trend, but not a trend meant for Indian/ Asian skin types.”
Even though face oils are a natural and pantry-derived solution, not all of them are necessarily suitable for the skin. Many oils fail to take into account the skin’s natural lipid ratio, which includes ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, and can be comedogenic, leading to pore-clogging and acne.
Dr Shweta Nakhwa, cosmetologist and dermatologist at HL Aesthetic Skin Care Clinic, Thane, says, “Oils should be formulated by skin type. Essential oils are potent and may cause irritation if applied directly to the skin, which is why they should be blended with another oil. Essential oils are necessary as they serve as the ‘active’ ingredient, such as tea tree oil for antibacterial and anti-acne purposes. It is always a good idea to consult a dermatologist to determine which non-comedogenic moisturisers are best for the face.”
People with excessive oily, acne-prone, or crust-filled skin may avoid using face oils. “They can potentially worsen the condition. It is also recommended to check the ingredient list for any allergens before use. Avoid prolonged exposure to harsh sunlight after applying oil, as this may cause skin tanning due to the oil’s heat-attracting properties,” says Gupta.
But for the dry-skinned individuals, in body areas without any oil glands, in babies, oils work as good occlusive moisturisers. “If the sweating and the humidity are high, oil can still cause folliculitis or hair root inflammation, sometimes even infection. It is not a function of the oil itself, but the fact that it is humid in India, and we sweat. So, derivatives of oils, which have always been used in moisturisers that contain a very good bit of water, are better than using the oil neat. Many oils that are commonly Google-recommended for the face or the scalp like almond oil and coconut oil are highly comedogenic and will break the skin out. Very rarely, even among those with Indian skin type, older individuals with reduced face sebum and people in very cold climates may be able to tolerate these oils. But for the rest of us in the majority, face oils are a ‘no’,” says Rajan.
Box 1 text:
KNOW THE BENEFITS
Moisturisation
Face oils are a great source of hydration for the skin, helping to keep it soft and supple
Anti-ageing properties
Many face oils contain antioxidants that can help protect the skin against damage from environmental stressors, which can lead to premature ageing
Improved complexion
Some face oils can help to even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and promote a more radiant complexion
Non-comedogenic
Many face oils are non-comedogenic, which means they won’t clog pores or cause breakouts
Versatility
Face oils can be used in a variety of ways, including as a standalone moisturiser, as a makeup primer, or as a treatment for specific skin concerns
Box 2 text:
USE AS PER SKIN TYPE
For dry skin
Look for face oils that contain hydrating ingredients such as jojoba oil, argan oil or avocado oil. These help nourish and moisturise skin
For sensitive skin
Choose gentle face oils that are free from harsh chemicals and fragrances. Look for face oils that contain chamomile oil, lavender oil or calendula oil, which are known for their soothing and calming properties
For mature skin
Choose face oils that contain antioxidants like vitamin E or coenzyme Q10 as these ingredients help to protect the skin from free radicals and promote collagen production
For oily or acne-prone skin
Choose lightweight oils that won’t clog pores. Look for face oils that contain ingredients like tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, or rosehip oil, which are known for their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties
Myths no more
A common myth is that face oils clog pores, but the effectiveness of face oil depends on its composition and suitability for skin type. “Topical application of facial oils can help correct various skin conditions such as dryness and dark spots and aid in controlling oil production over time,” says Gupta.
Rajan says, “We need to move from being ingredient centric (checking out everything that’s allegedly trending) to being self-centric (knowing what our skin wants or can benefit from). That’s a better way to do skin care.”
So, are face oils not beneficial during the winter months? Yes, the winter climate can cause dry and rough skin, leading to itching and inflammation; facial oils can be effective in keeping skin hydrated and supple.
Then is it good to use during the summer months, despite the hot and humid climate? The skin may look oily during summers but it still requires nourishment and hydration. Facial oils are lightweight and get easily absorbed into the skin, making it an ideal choice for summers. It is also a myth that facial oils have anti-ageing benefits. However, facial oils are a storehouse of antioxidants that fight against free radicals responsible for wrinkles and fine lines. These oils help boost collagen production, which increases skin elasticity, making it look youthful and healthy.
But not all face oils are created equal, and some may be more beneficial for certain skin types and concerns than others. “To avoid experiencing side effects from using face oils, such as breakouts or allergic reactions, it’s always good to patch test a new product before applying on face and consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns,” says Vidur Kapoor, director, O3+, a professional skincare brand.
Typically made from natural ingredients, face oils are an attractive alternative to synthetic and chemical-based skincare products and help to improve the texture and appearance of the skin. “Face oils have become an instant trend because they offer a range of benefits that many people are looking for in their skincare products. Like any skincare product, face oils can have side effects. The most common side effect is skin irritation, especially for people with sensitive skin. This can occur if the face oil contains an ingredient that the skin is sensitive to, or if the oil is applied too frequently or in excessive amounts. To avoid any side effects, it is important to do a patch test on a small area of skin before using the face oil on the entire face,” says Bengaluru-based dermatologist Dr Chytra Anand, founder of Kosmoderma & SkinQ.
