What is that intangible that draws people to India? It clearly is one of the most unwelcoming destinations in the world. Touchdown is a huge bump and thereafter, the aircraft bounces along to the aero bridge. It is not that we are incapable of building a smooth tarmac ? it is just that the contractor who had the lowest tender made money on every inch he laid down.

Corruption, a national trait, is the killer disease. You walk off the plane to be confronted by an unsavoury character called an immigration officer! He is positively ghastly, rude, slow ? a despicable being you would not want anyone to emulate! He is a true reminder and representative of a backward world, one where life is a chore, where mediocrity is celebrated.

If we are to capitalise on the potential boom in tourism in this region, surely the first thing that needs to be done is to ensure that the first point of call be dignified and pleasant. To be greeted by an officious half wit, an uneducated, arrogant babu, is unacceptable. This is the first step ? upgrading the airport is the second step because a slick airport with an obnoxious official is bad news.

Then, of course, the national fragrance takes over: Stale urine blended with phenyl. Nowhere in the world is this smell so overwhelming. Why can we not eliminate this stench? Out into the parking lot and needless to say, some unthinking selfish person has parked his car in a manner that correctly parked cars are stuck. The attendant is helpless. India is shining!

Catching up on the news if you have been away is equally trying. The quality of content, writing style, focus, perspective, its all rather flip and flimsy, in stark contrast to mainline papers elsewhere. So, onto the phone in an attempt to find out what is in fact happening! If you go by the front pages of the daily newspapers you would imagine that there has been no change of government ? endless speculation on why Vajpayee said what, where will it all end etcetera. Hugely dull.

On one evening the two main events that hogged the news on television was the BJP bash in Bombay and the LN Mittal bash in France. Both extravaganzas spelt bombast rather than quiet, dignified sophistication. Is this the new ethic?

At work the power goes off, comes on, goes off, comes on, all so that every piece of equipment can fall apart and become totally dysfunctional. It is 2004 ? the capital of India, in Lutyens Delhi, with wildly fluctuating power supply. Small wonder that nothing ever gets done as it should. It is unimaginable. How on earth can we compete at an international level if we are in a constant state of being bogged down? Exhaustion, followed by resignation, is what makes life impossible.

It is incomprehensible that a country, so skilled in creating material beauty, be they cities, buildings, forts, gardens or objects both religious and secular, can allow itself to deteriorate in this manner. Nothing we create today is comparable to what we have produced traditionally. People are drawn to India of the past, not India of today. Modern India spells confusion, chaos, and dirt, all wrapped up in many layers of corruption. If only those who rule, bureaucrats and politicians, consciously discard this menace, India will boom at all levels. Till then, the selfishness of our rulers will compel us to wallow in the mire.

It does not take much to radically alter the situation. Ministers need to lead from the front, work hard in the backroom day upon day, make people working for and with them accountable, control quality and not tolerate mediocrity.

It is sad to see this country whittle away its endless and continuing strengths in greedy pursuit of personal and individual gain. The middle class is playing ?follow the leader? and the leaders have reduced the level of our hitherto national ethos. Having not experienced the real good life, those aspiring for that life are unfortunately faking it because they are in a hurry. Lavish indulgence begins to replace traditional style, public posturing to grab attention begins to replace quiet dignity and private celebration, trite sound bites begin to replace discourse and debate. Superficiality takes over, substance gets buried.

We can change this. It is in our hands to do so, to demand so from our rulers. Complacency and silent acceptance of all the horrors of our daily life has to be replaced by active protest for legitimate and civilised living. We are an ancient civilisation. We remain confident despite having been exploited by those who conquered us, over the centuries as well as by our own contemporary rulers who carried on the same systems and processes instead of breaking away from tactics of exploitation. It is time to rebuild pride.