As glittering yellow and golden light descends closer to the Aravallis, with its shimmering reflection sprinkled across the 650-year-old Lake Pichola, a visual illusion leaves one spellbound. The mass of hills on the western end of Udaipur city appears to be one hill, with those behind it bathing in the last glory of dusk, appearing as majestic shadows of the hills, like in a scenic painting.
Udaipur, the capital of erstwhile Mewar, the city of lakes, is perhaps at its glorious best closer to the time when the sun decides to call it a day. It?s around six in the evening and sadhus at a small temple on the banks of the lake are cleaning up the after a havan, as smouldering ashes continue to give out that sweet aromatic smell of sandalwood coupled with the sudden nip in the air. People, old and young, native and foreign, start flocking the tiny L-shaped embankment with a view of the City Palace on the left, the Lake Palace in front and the Aravalli range flanking the city on the right.
Some are engrossed in their daily gossip, while some seek to sit in solitude probably soaking in their splendid and seemingly mystical surroundings. Others like me, alone or in groups, have cameras around their necks, going on a clicking frenzy to capture the last moments of daylight, the mellow orange sun appearing much calmer and friendlier than the blazing and ruthless ball of fire it was a few hours ago. It seems to have surrendered to its fate, to rest for the evening, so that it can be back in full force again the next day.
And those like me, submit to the beauty of this surrender. Imagine a scenery with a velvety red and saffron background, with nothing but silhouettes, of hills, trees, boats and people, dotting the painting of this city called the Venice of the East.
Although sunsets are mostly beautiful everywhere, Udaipur somehow manages to bestow upon those watching it, a pristine and overwhelming sense of fulfillment and pure pleasure of the senses. Especially for those who are into photography, this view is a perfect frame. And as one believes, Udaipur at sunset can be anybody?s best ever shot, even if clicked with eyes closed. So, a large number of shutterbugs attempt to capture the dusk in all its shades. From high-end DSLRs to humble digital cameras to even humbler mobile cameras, to each his own.
And if you are mesmerised by the sunset at Lake Pichola, the view from the Monsoon Palace can sweep your feet off the ground. Adorning a hilltop just on the outskirts of the city, this 126-year-old palace, also known as Sajjan Garh Palace, provides a breathtaking panoramic view of the city, its lakes, palaces and hills. Its claim to fame is its use in the 1983 James Bond flick Octopussy. Today, the palace is encircled by the Sajjangarh Wildlife Sanctuary, which has an area of 5.2 sq km. One can reach the palace either by a hired cab or by the forest department vehicles that charge Rs 100 per person for a round trip?up to the palace and back from the main-gate of the sanctuary.
Around sunset, the western end of this tiny palace gets crowded with photography enthusiasts, honeymooners, and anyone who wants to witness one of the most scenic views in the country. Once the four to five benches on the open courtyard are full, there is a scramble to find a place on the parapet. And as the sun retires yet again, this time behind the mist and hills, someone is busy clicking, someone is scribbling some quick notes into a diary, someone is attempting to capture the moment through a sketch, and some are just lost in the charm of this picture of tranquillity that surrounds them. And as you get up to bid adieu to the sun and this majestic view, feeling strangely fulfilled and content, it’s almost heartbreaking to leave the palace and that painting of a sky behind you.
Extraordinary subjects often make an ordinary photographer and his pictures look great. And the sunsets at Lake Pichola and the Monsoon Palace are surely worth that description. Udaipur is a city that is bound to leave an imprint on your mind and memory, from its culture and heritage, to its dwellers and their kind and humble aura, to the breathtaking natural beauty it is gifted with.
And before one embarks upon the return journey and bids farewell to the city of lakes and sunsets, one is already busy chalking out plans for the next trip to the heart of Mewar. Just one won?t do.