When Prada debuted its leather sandals during the Spring/Summer 2026 show in Milan, the backlash was swift. Eagle-eyed fashion aficionados called out their unmistakable resemblance to India’s traditional Kohlapuri chappals, and accused the Italian luxury house of cultural appropriation. By the time Prada acknowledged the Indian origin, the debate had spiraled beyond humdrum footwear to the larger issue of brand flex and ethics.
It’s no secret that the runways of fashion are strewn with examples of work where original creators are either overlooked or not properly compensated. But in a connected world, designers are finding it tough to get away with it. Such me-too branding — to put it mildly — can lead to an erosion of consumer trust, say experts. “The long-term brand equity risk comes not from the noise, but from the feeling of being overlooked, uncredited and unheard,” says Ambika Sharma, founder & chief strategist at Pulp Strategy.
That is increasingly evident in markets driven by young, hyper-aware consumers. “Gen Z and Millennials, who drive over 70% of luxury growth, are more likely to demand ethics and respect,” says Chandan Sharma, general manager, digital media, Adani Group. “Social proof now includes ethical alignment, not just price tag.”
That said, “most new ideas contain some element of something that already exists”, points out Samit Sinha, founder & managing director, Alchemist Brand Consulting. Think Balenciaga’s distressed sneakers that drew flak for glamourising poverty, or Zara’s ‘lungi skirts’ that resembled traditional Indian menswear minus a nod to origin.
In general, seasonal collections give a 10-20% bump in sales. Data also shows that heritage-linked pieces have a 30% higher sell-through rate on e-commerce platforms. While the economics of controversy is rarely discussed in boardrooms, fashion industry insiders say that cultural capsules — especially those tied to runway moments and a dose of cause célèbre — can lead to short-term gains. “While brands can’t estimate exact figures, such moments end up delivering good returns, thanks to the artisanal nature of storytelling’,” says Yasin Hamidani, director, Media Care Brand Solutions.
Is that the reason some brands still swear by the adage “any publicity is good publicity”? Can controversy be a long-term strategy?
Cultural paradox
The more generous among brand experts say such events actually help elevate local design to a global platform. “Moments like these operate in a paradox. On one hand, they generate cultural conversation, often polarising, but high in visibility for brands. On the other, they shine a light on the gap between appropriation and appreciation,” adds Sharma.
One way to avoid the trap is to collaborate with artisans or local designers to spotlight their unique craft. Big labels benefit by reflecting a more thoughtful appreciation of cultures that inspire their work rather than come across as tone deaf or simply dishonest. “The brands that win are the ones who translate, not transplant, cultural meaning,” says Hayden Scott, executive creative director (India), Virtue Asia.
Feted Indian designer Sabyasachi has taken the collaboration strategy to a new level altogether. Take his 2024 collaboration with Estée Lauder. With shades such as Calcutta Red and Bombay Berry, the collaboration celebrated local colour palates with new lipstick shades.
It’s a strategy many fashion houses are beginning to embrace. Dior’s long-standing partnership with Mumbai-based Chanakya International is a case in point. For its Fall 2023 show in Mumbai, the French multinational spotlighted Indian techniques like Aari, Zardozi, Phulkari, and Kantha and worked with 300 artisans. Similarly, Christian Louboutin’s collaboration with Chennai’s Vastrakala brought Indian embroidery to luxury footwear.
“Collaborating with local artistes is important for any luxury brand. It not only helps the brand preserve the culture, art and heritage of a place, but also increases the emotional brand value for the customers,” says Shruti Mishra, founder & CEO, IImage Stereo Marcom.