Jonathan Anderson got his first break in fashion as a window dresser in a Dublin department store. The man who has now risen to the centre of power in the global fashion industry in double-quick time, clearly knows how to create a buzz. And, that’s what luxury fashion house LVMH expects him to do in his new role as creative director of both men’s and women’s wear.
From designing iPhone covers and Rubik’s Cubes for British high street brand Topshop that were instant hits, the Puzzle bag for Loewe that became a classic, to being full creative boss at Dior — the first after Christian Dior to bear the responsibility — Anderson, at a mere 40 years of age, clearly has a Midas touch.
Described as “one of the creative talents of his generation” by Bernard Arnault, chief executive of LVMH, while announcing his elevation as creative director, Anderson’s appointment is the latest — and perhaps the biggest — in a series of recent shake-ups in the fashion world, which has seen as many as 17 new designer appointments in 2025, with four of them at LVMH alone.
Luxury sales have seen a prolonged slump and the tariff wars under President Trump have just increased uncertainty for the sector, which has most of its manufacturing in China. Most luxury labels steeply hiked prices in the past couple of years, which didn’t go down well with customers, leading to a slide in sales. Post-tariff viral videos on TikTok by Chinese factory owners showing how luxury handbags and other accessories could be bought from them minus the label at about one-tenth of the price commanded by brands dealt further blow. Reportedly, Dior pays its subcontractors about 53 euro for a handbag it sells for 2,600 euro.
Dior, which contributes about 20% of LVMH revenues, has reportedly been the worst underperformer in 2024 for the biggest luxury house in the world that owns 75 brands.
Anderson is expected to change this and breathe fresh life into Dior as he takes charge of the women’s collection too, replacing Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first woman design head of women’s wear at Dior. He was given charge of the men’s line in April this year, becoming the top boss after a 12-year association with LVMH.
A wannabe actor, Anderson turned to costume design instead at the Julliard School in New York, and later graduated from London School of Fashion in 2005. He earned critical acclaim in 2008 with his first venture — his own menswear label JW Anderson – setting the tone for meteoric success that landed him the job of creative director of Loewe, a Spanish luxury brand owned by LVMH, in 2013. Getting the formula right as he balanced edgy creativity (think sunny-side-up eggs at the point of a heel, or barrel-shaped jeans) with commercial success, Anderson catapulted Loewe from an unknown brand to one worn by celebrities, Daniel Craig included. Annual revenues reportedly rose from around euro 200 million to over euro 1.5 billion in those 12 years under Anderson.
It is this kind of revival that LVMH hopes at Dior too. As Bernard Arnault stated: “His unique artistic signature will be a key asset for writing the next chapter of the Dior house’s history.”
The young designer’s connect with the new generation, his daring in being able to pull off quirky design, and his clarity of vision are expected to speak to a wide audience and restore the maison’s fortunes. “It is an honour to be joining such a deeply historic and emotionally resonant house,” Anderson stated post his appointment. “Dior has existed long enough to be a testament to the strength of dreaming. My dream is to carry that dream-bravely, honestly, and without apology.”
But the job will surely not be easy. Dior is four times the size of Loewe, so Anderson faces a scale he has not seen before. He already has a huge calendar ahead of him – to design 18 collections in a year. This will include 10 collections per year at Dior, six collections for JW Anderson, and two for the JW Anderson collaboration with Uniqlo. His first test is right around the corner, on June 27, where he will unveil his men’s collection for his first official show for Dior. His first show of women’s wear on October 1 in Paris will be his toughest challenge as he takes on the formidable legacy of Grazia Chiuri and her bold feminist designs that resonated hugely with customers.
But Anderson is known to be a multitasker, having dabbled in film design too with ‘Queer’ and ‘Challengers’ in 2024. Plus, LVMH obviously has full faith in him, as Delphine Arnault, chairperson and CEO of Dior, has been quoted as saying they see Anderson bringing in consistency and coherence in their “one-designer, one-vision” for the house.