As one enters Patna by train, with trips to Rajgir and Nalanda in mind, the first thing that strikes you is the dismal condition of the railway station. This, despite the state boasting of at sending at least three railway ministers to the Union Cabinet so far. I later discover that the chaos and confusion are my companions throughout the trip. The capital city is no different. Traffic is unmanageable and taxi drivers even resort to threatening other drivers with sticks to give way.
The trip to Rajgir also begins on a wrong note. I set out at six in the morning from Patna and am stuck in a traffic jam on the city border for two and a half hours. By the time I reach the small town, less than 100 km from Patna, it is midday. The place definitely needs to call in the Japanese, who are keen on developing the Buddhist tourism circuit in Bihar. Reportedly, the Bihar government has even sought a loan from the Japan Bank for International Cooperation for constructing 481 km of roads in the circuit.
But Rajgir, a quaint little place located in a valley, with loads of small-town charm, more than makes up for the earlier hassles. Buddha is known to have spent many years in the town. It is believed that it was at Rajgir that a physician treated Buddha after he was injured by his cousin Devdatta. Also, the venue for the first Buddhist Council, the teachings of Buddha were penned down at Rajgir.
The place is best known for its warm water springs with therapeutic properties and the ropeway up to the Shanti Stupa, built by Japanese devotees atop a hill. A little disappointment is meted out to tourists here as well, who find the ropeway shut for repair. As for the warm water springs, one would think twice before taking a dip in the dirty surroundings.
The closed ropeway means a lot of tourists miss the Shanti Stupa, at least a two-hour trek on foot. Some don?t have the time, others the inclination to walk that far. However, I take out time for the Sonbhandar caves. Constructed in the third and the fourth centuries, these caves were primarily meant for meditation. Legend also has it that these still hold King Bimbisara?s treasury. ?Don?t even try; the caves will explode because of a high sulphite variant underneath,? my guide quickly warns me.
Among the other must-see places in the region are Swarna Bhandar (literally a store of gold, which dates back to King Jarashandh?s time), Bimbisar jail and, of course, the Nalanda ruins 10 km away.
Nalanda is a visual treat. The awe-inspiring ruins are steeped in history. You can?t help but take pride in the fact that it was the first residential international university of the world. The famous Chinese traveller and scholar, Hieun-Tsang, also spend time here and has described the destination in great detail. I?d strongly recommend you to hire a guide or else it will be difficult to make sense of the grandeur that once was. There is a lot to see, with many stupas, monasteries, hostels, laboratories, meditation halls, lecture halls and temples.
Right from Lord Mahavir, who spent 14 years here, to Lord Buddha, this place was greatly patronised. Interestingly, the monastery may have been found before the fifth century. The renowned teacher, Nagarjuna, who is believed to have been born around 150 AD, is quite specific about having received ordination at Nalanda at the age of seven. His teacher Rahulabhadra is also said to have lived here before that, says my guide.
The guides lend their own flavour to the place with their Bihari jokes, anecdotes and insights. My guide was the philosophical type, an old man whose life had been centred around these ruins. It is a cause he feels strongly for. ?This place needs a lot of restoration. I wish the government did something. It has so much potential?hundreds of tourists coming in each day?more from China, Thailand and Cambodia than India itself. I have no hope, but this is my land; I only wish it the best.? At this point, my driver urged me to head back. It was six in the evening and he didn?t want to take any chances. ?Naxal log jaante hain madam?? Another concern tha needs to be addressed.