Welcome to yet anothor edition of Virasat Ki thali, a month-long series, that delves into the rich tapestry of culinary traditions in India and explore the stories behind iconic dishes. This week, well we thought, enough of savory! Why not taste the origin of a dessert that we Indian’s are simply crazy about?
So here we are, Behold the gleaming golden sweet, sometimes brown, sometimes orange, filled with sweet twists and turns, as sweet as honey, crunchy to eat, and dripping with syrup – the piping-hot ‘Jalebis’ from the annals of history.
From the ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia to its delectable transformation in the Middle East, ‘Jalebi’ finally found its way to the streets of India, where it became an inseparable part of our culinary heritage so much so that it became a symbol of our celebrations.
Jalebi is so much involved in our lives that we have song about it.
A delectable discovery: Tracing the origins
In every nook and cranny of India, ‘Jalebi’ is prepared in diverse ways, each as tantalizing as the next. Whisked to perfection, a magical blend of black gram and rice flour dances in hot oil, taking the mesmerizing form of the signature spirals with the help of a muslin cloth. And finally, they are lovingly dipped in sugar syrup, transforming into the irresistible delight we know and love. But where did this sweet marvel originate?
From Arabia with love: The journey to India
A popular belief connects ‘Jalebi’ with its distant cousin, ‘Lokmat-al-qadi,’ a treat originating in the Arab countries. But as we delve deeper, we uncover subtle differences. While ‘Jalebi’ is born from whisked flour, ‘Lokmat-al-qadi’ involves kneading the flour and frying round balls in oil. The trail of ‘Jalebi’ starts in West Asia and finds its way to India through the wanderings of Muslim traders, artists, and rulers who brought this sweet delight to our land.
A taste of tradition: Zalabiya
The true birth of ‘Jalebi’ took place in the Middle East, specifically in the regions of Persia and the Levant. Historical records indicate that ‘Zalabiya’ was a festive delight enjoyed during the Islamic holy month of Ramadan, particularly during iftaar gatherings when Muslims break their fast.
The 13th-century Arab scholar, Muhammad bin Hasan al-Baghdadi, penned a remarkable cookbook titled ‘Kitab al-Tabeekh,‘ where he recorded the culinary wonders of his time. In this treasured tome, ‘Zalabiya’ was immortalized for the first time, describing a treat made by frying dough in hot oil and soaking it in sugar syrup – a striking resemblance to our beloved ‘Jalebi.’
The arrival in India
The emergence of ‘Jalebi’ in India is shrouded in mystery and the mists of time, but historical accounts point to the arrival of this sweet delight during the medieval period. It is believed that ‘Jalebi’ made its way to the Indian subcontinent through trade and cultural interactions with the Middle East, brought by Persian and Arab traders and travelers.
As time flowed, ‘Jalebi’ became an integral part of festivities, weddings, and temple offerings. The ‘Priyamkarnrpakatha,’ a renowned Jain scripture penned around 1450 CE, recounts how ‘Jalebi’ adorned the gatherings of wealthy merchants. The Sanskrit work ‘Gunyagunabodhini,’ predating 1600 CE, also listed the same ingredients and recipe used to prepare the modern ‘Jalebi.’ Some accounts even speculate its origin in Turkey before India welcomed it through Tunisia.
In the cookbooks of India
The sweet made its way to India in the 17th century when Raghunath, a writer during the reign of Deepabai of Tanjore, revealed its magical recipe in his cookbook ‘Bhojana Kutuhala,’ a treasure trove of culinary secrets still cherished today. From then on, ‘Jalebi’ began its enchanting journey across the Indian subcontinent.
‘Jalebi’ is not just a sweet but a symbol of India’s cultural diversity and inclusivity. Its Urdu pronunciation as ‘Zalabiya’ or ‘Zalibiya’ gracefully transformed into ‘Jalebi’ in Hindi, transcending its religious identity and embracing all with its sweetness.
How India’s sugar made it perfect
While ‘Jalebi’ might not be an indigenous Indian creation, our contribution to the world of sweetness is significant – sugar! Even Alexander the Great marveled at the taste of sugarcane in ancient India, likening it to fig or honey.
Celebrating Diversity: ‘Jalebi’ Across India
Over centuries, ‘Jalebi’ took root in Northern India while being pronounced as ‘Jilebi’ in the South. From the Bengali Jilapi relished during Rathayatra to the Gujarati ‘Jalebi’ savored with Fafda on Dusshera, this divine treat intertwined itself with India’s gastronomic tapestry.
Today, diverse avatars of ‘Jalebi’ reign supreme across the mainland – the majestic ‘Jaleba’ from Indore’s night markets, the delicate ‘Chhanar Jilipi’ from Bengal’s esteemed sweetmakers, the rich ‘Mawa Jalebi’ of Madhya Pradesh, its doppelganger ‘Khowa Jalebi’ from Hyderabad, and the mouthwatering ‘Imarti’ or ‘Jhangiri’ of Andhra Pradesh, paying homage to the Mughal emperor Jahangir.
How to make Jalebi
In a mixing bowl, blend the charm of black gram flour and the mystique of rice flour, whisking them into a harmonious dance of flavors. Now, conjure up a bubbling cauldron of hot oil, and, with the finesse of an artist, pipe your bewitching batter into those tantalizing spirals. As the Jalebis sizzle and dance in the golden elixir, your kitchen will be filled with the sweet aroma of anticipation. And now, for the grand finale – an enchanting plunge into a shimmering bath of sugar syrup, where they will soak up all the saccharine goodness. With a magical twist of fate, your Jalebis are now ready to dazzle the world with their honeyed charm and crunchy allure! So, indulge in the spellbinding delight of homemade Jalebi and let the enchantment unfold on your taste buds!
Places which serves best sweet spirals
1. Delhi
Old Famous Jalebi Wala, Chandni Chowk: This iconic jalebi shop has been serving delectable jalebis since 1884. Located in the bustling lanes of Chandni Chowk, it’s a must-visit for jalebi lovers.
Jalebi Wala, Dariba Kalan: Another legendary jalebi shop in Chandni Chowk that has been satisfying taste buds for generations. Their crispy and juicy jalebis are a delight.
Pandit Ved Prakash Lemon Wale, Old Delhi: While they are famous for their refreshing lemonade, their jalebis are equally mouthwatering. This shop is located near Fatehpuri Masjid.
2. Kolkata
Radharaman Mullick & Radharaman Mullick Nalin Chandra Das & Sons: This iconic sweet shop in North Kolkata has been serving delightful jalebis for decades. Their jalebis are soaked in sugary syrup and have the perfect balance of crispiness and tenderness.
KC Das: Known for inventing the famous Bengali sweet Rasgulla, KC Das also prepares excellent jalebis. This century-old sweet shop has various outlets across the city.
Bhim Chandra Nag: Situated in the heart of Shyambazar, this sweet shop has been serving traditional Bengali sweets and jalebis for generations.
So, the next time you savor the delightful taste of ‘Jalebi,’ remember that you’re not just relishing a sweet treat but also embarking on a journey through history – a journey that celebrates cultural exchange, diversity, and the essence of India’s rich culinary heritage.