What do a bowl of khichdi, mashed potatoes and guacamole have in common? They all have a rich creamy, velvety, buttery and smooth texture, which in turn makes the dishes comforting to the palate and, perhaps, even to the mind.
According to Krish Ashok, author of Masala Lab: The Science of Indian Cooking, the effect of soft, creamy and mushy textured food is more psychological than physiological. It may not have a direct relationship with digestion, but it sends signals to the brain about being comforting.
In general, food texture plays a crucial role in influencing the consumer’s preference for a particular dish. According to food scientist Fred van de Velde, in addition to consumer acceptance, texture also has a vital role in modulating flavour release and perception. If flavour components in a food are to be sensed, they must be released from the food matrix to reach the appropriate taste receptors. This release of flavour is closely associated with the way in which the food structure breaks down in the mouth relating to both the initial texture of the food and the change in texture throughout mastication.
Comfort zone
Texture certainly equals comfort, in the case of some foods. Comfort food, in turn, takes people back to a certain place, time, person or group of people, which evokes particular feelings.
Nutritionist Kavita Devgan explains, “Some textures (soft, mushy) are smoother, easier to swallow, and require less chewing. These are usually easier to digest. Also, most people have food memories going back to childhood, where they associate these textures with comfort, care and love of their grandmother or mother. So, eating them as adults, too, makes them feel secure.”
Khichdi tops the list, because of the happy childhood memories attached to this simple dish. “Eating rice raises serotonin levels, which is one of the pleasure hormones that elevates the mood and has a calming, soothing effect on us,” adds Devgan.
Mumbai-based psychologist Shrradha Sidhwani reinforces, “The emotional benefits of comfort food, such as khichdi or mashed potatoes, stir up positive memories from early childhood that symbolise feelings of nurturance, warmth and compassion. Thus,
comfort food is also used as a means to cope with loneliness and isolation. These tend to trigger positive emotions and a sense of belonging. Even in adulthood, while we are coping with sickness, one tends to crave more soft textures, which are linked to compassionate bonds of childhood.”
Apart from evoking childhood memories that spell comfort, soft and creamy textures work their magic on the palate too. Chef Vikas Seth of Sanchez, a Mexican restaurant in Bengaluru, analyses, “The soft and creamy textures provide a pleasing mouthfeel that creates a sense of comfort. These tend to be easy to chew and swallow, requiring less effort, creating a sense of relaxation. They also add satiety value to a meal. This nourishment, along with an emotional connection of being cared for and nurtured, with soft and creamy textures, is unparalleled.”
Regional Indian cuisine abounds in foods with a smooth texture, which in turn imparts comfort. Examples of such comfort foods are pakhala bhata (cooked or leftover rice washed or partially fermented in water) in Odisha, masoor daler khichdi (a rice and lentil dish with a texture that is in between a soup and porridge) in Bengal and pez (a simple rice preparation) in Goa.
A study in contrasts
Comfort notwithstanding, a soft texture is not what chefs like to serve in its entirety. They prefer to add an element of contrast that, according to them, is vital in elevating the texture of a dish.
Chef Anumitra Ghosh Dastidar of Edible Archives, a restaurant in Goa, explains, “Congee is my highest selling dish and is of a soft and mushy texture. Yet, as a chef, I feel contrast is important to balance the texture. I serve it with something crispy or crunchy, or fermented pickles. Furthermore, if I am serving a guacamole or avocado mousse, I always serve it with banana or tapioca chips. These are actually classic combinations, just like khichdi and papad.”
Texture plays a crucial role in a dish, but balance is predominant. A crispy, crunchy element to even out the smoothness and, perhaps, the monotonous texture of a dish, is a must. Chef Varun Totlani of Masque, Mumbai, avers, “I am not sure if this creamy, mushy texture is always what diners are looking for when they are dining out, unless it’s balanced with different textures.”
He further explains, “Khichdis, congees, pakhala bhata, thayir sadam— there are so many rice-based dishes which, along with other dishes and ingredients like tofu, mashed potatoes, smoothie bowls, porridges or even bananas, impart this smooth and mushy texture. In India, most of these are traditionally made with or eaten alongside something that provides a contrast, whether it’s a tadka, papad or curd chillies. Cooking at a restaurant, I definitely balance it with a variety of textures—crispy garlic, veggie trimming chips, crispy coriander rice, cashew chikki, crispy seaweed, even fried ponkh.”
Author Ashok agrees: “Textural variations in a single dish elevate a dish. In Maharashtrian cuisine, there are several dishes of a soft texture—vegetables, or chewy textures of meat—but then, these are always topped off with peanuts, farsan or something crunchy.”
Seth of Sanchez, too, follows this mantra strictly. He shares, “Texture is crucial, in terms of mouthfeel and palate stimulation. I prefer to give a balance of textures to a dish that creates a delightful sensory experience. For example, adding toasted walnuts and grilled sea bass to a creamy black garlic risotto, along with charred cherry tomato, gives the desired texture of creaminess and crunchiness.”
Emotional sustenance, reassurance and security are the prime attributes of dishes with smooth and dense textures that people turn to in times of emotional upheaval or distress.
Yet, chefs rarely serve food without adding some contrast. In an age where Instagram dominates and presentations matter, chefs are cautious about textures too.
Totlani of Masque sums up succinctly: “Texture is an important aspect of any plate, because a dish shouldn’t feel one-dimensional, grainy or too mushy.”
Mini Ribeiro is a freelancer
