A T-shirt that costs less than a cup of coffee. A pair of jeans priced at half the cost of a movie ticket. For years, fast fashion has attracted shoppers with the thrill of cheap, fast-changing trends. But behind the racks of polyester dresses and knock-off sneakers lies a global industry creaking under the weight of its own contradictions: overflowing landfills, exploitative labour, and a high carbon footprint. The world is reaching a breaking point, and governments are stepping into the business model of fast fashion which seems almost magical: clothes produced at lightning speed, mimicking runway designs, sold at rock-bottom prices.
According to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the fashion industry contributes up to 10% of global carbon emissions, more than all international flights and shipping combined. Each year, millions of tonnes of unsold clothes are dumped or exported to developing countries, overwhelming local waste systems. In Ghana, the Kantamanto market receives 15 million items of discarded clothing every week, mostly unwearable, and that is either piling up in open dumps or washing into waterways. Then there is the human toll. Fast fashion thrives on a race to the bottom in labour costs, relying heavily on workers in Bangladesh, Vietnam, and Cambodia, many of whom endure long hours, unsafe conditions, and poverty wages. The 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse in Dhaka, which killed more than 1,100 garment workers, was a stark reminder of how dangerous ‘cheap fashion’ can be.
From greenwashing to global legislation
However, critics have called on big brands to reform voluntarily. While some labels tout ‘sustainable’ collections or recycling programmes, consumer watchdogs argue these efforts often amount to little more than greenwashing. Now, governments are raising the stakes. In France, new legislation has introduced penalties for companies producing low-quality, environmentally damaging garments. Each item that fails to meet durability or recycling standards will incur a tax, with revenues earmarked to support textile recycling and sustainable design. The goal is simple: make disposable clothing less profitable. Sweden is targeting the powerful marketing engines of fast fashion. Influencers and celebrities promoting clothing online may soon be required to disclose the carbon footprint of the items they endorse.
The measure not only holds brands accountable but also nudges consumers to think twice before clicking ‘buy now’ on the latest viral dress. In New York, lawmakers have put forward one of the most ambitious proposals, the Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act. If passed, it would require major fashion companies operating in the state to map at least half of their supply chains, disclose greenhouse gas emissions, and reveal details about wages and working conditions. Brands that fail to comply could face hefty fines.
India’s contradiction
The India story is complex, both as a production hub for global brands and as a growing consumer market. On the one hand, Indian garment workers stitch for export giants such as Zara, H&M, and Shein, contributing significantly to the country’s $40-billion textile export economy, and on the other, employment in the sector provides livelihoods to millions, even as working conditions remain uneven. Reports have highlighted low wages, informal contracts, and pressure to meet unrealistic deadlines.
But the new style in fast fashion is either popular on the catwalk or a celebrity outfit and one can easily find its equivalent in stores. Most fast fashion brands offer all kinds of styles but they are all the same. The reason why these brands have often been criticised for being overly similar to each other, lacking unique designs. At the same time, Indian urban millennials and Gen Zs are increasingly drawn to fast fashion. Online platforms like Myntra and Ajio fuel the wave, while homegrown labels are leading the charge. Reliance Retail’s Yousta and Tata Trent’s Zudio have rapidly expanded across Indian cities, offering trendy T-shirts for under Rs 300 and dresses under Rs 1,000. Their strategy mirrors global fast fashion giants in presenting vast collections, quick inventory turnover, and low pricing to keep shoppers coming back.
Today, Zudio has over 500 outlets, while Yousta is opening stores to capture the youth market. But there are concerns where affordability often comes at the cost of durability, and the push for volume risks adding to India’s mounting textile waste problem. India generates nearly one million tonnes of textile waste every year, much of it ending up in informal recycling hubs or landfills. Cities like Panipat, once known for recycling woollen waste into blankets, are now overwhelmed by synthetic blends that cannot be reused.
Policy conversations are only just beginning. Some Indian startups are innovating with fabric recycling, upcycling, and rental models. But compared to Europe, regulatory pressure on fast fashion remains limited.
On the other hand, efforts are underway like H&M’s ‘conscious’ line, made almost entirely of materials upcycled from waste, or Zara’s promises of using more sustainable fabrics. According to What Fuels Fashion report by Fashion Revolution (2025 edition), H&M ranked 1st out of 200 major fashion brands/ retailers with a score of 71% based on its publicly-disclosed information about climate and energy-related efforts. “This ranking shows we are moving in the right direction, but it reminds us that action must go further and faster. No brand can tackle this challenge alone. By working together and sharing more openly, we can lift the entire industry and drive meaningful change”, says Leyla Ertur Genç, chief sustainability officer, H&M Group. Shoppers, too, bear some responsibility. The ease of one-click purchases and the dopamine rush of a new outfit feed a culture of disposal. Studies show the average garment is now worn just seven to ten times before being discarded.