For many in India, their knowledge of French cuisine is largely restricted to croissants, quiches, or macarons, at best. Too bad that French fries, something all of us have gobbled ever since McDonald’s opened shop in the 1990s, thanks to liberalisation, is not French but might be of Belgian origin. Even the ever-popular French toast, which makes for a staple breakfast in India, might be less French and more Roman. Even in the post-liberalised and globalised India, the French cuisine, considered the most sophisticated in the world, never really took off as much as its American, Italian and even south-east Asian counterparts. It can be surprising given India’s deep-rooted connection with the European nation, especially stemming from Puducherry, Karaikal, Mahe, Yanam and Chandannagar.
However, that is changing slowly but steadily as an increasing number of French bakeries, called patisseries, are setting shop here – one of the most prominent being the luxury foods brand Ladurée.
The patisserie, known for popularising macarons worldwide, opened its first outlet in 2021 right at the heart of Delhi’s Khan Market. Since then, it has opened two more outlets in Delhi-NCR, and is set to open one in Mumbai by the end of this year, says Chandni Nath Israni, co-founder of CK Israni Group, which brought Ladurée to India.
Visit any one of these outlets, and you can indulge not only in its famed macarons, but also viennoiseries and pastries. Ask Chef Clément Nadeau, acclaimed as chef sucré international at Ladurée, and he would recommend Ispahan, a brightly pink-coloured macaron with rose petal cream, lychees, and raspberries. At the same time, he also recommends guests to try Eugénie and Pépite Noix de Pécan, Ladurée’s two new offerings. With profound use of pastel pink and green, even the bakery’s interior exudes Frenchness – pastel yet glamorous. At the end, it is the quality of products and authentic French flavour that makes this 19th-century patisserie famous worldwide.
While Laduree’s offerings are a must-try, there are other brands too that are increasingly expanding in India, an example being Paul, which, too, has opened outlets in Delhi-NCR as well as in Mumbai. This 19th-century bakery, too, has delectable offerings, serving as examples of French culinary mastery.
While these are French in every way, some in India, too, have made their mark in introducing Indians to the French flavours. L’Opéra, which first opened doors in the national capital more than a decade ago, remains the foremost. Started by Frenchman Laurent Samandari, or rather his “longing for authentic French breads and pastries in India at the start of his career in 2007-2008”, it specialises in French products in India. Cakes, pastries, quiches, croissants and breads – you name it, all of them find a place at L’Opéra. Since its launch, the patisserie has expanded much with Samandari’s family, too, joining the business.
Still at a nascent stage, French bakeries offering the authentic culinary experience are still few, yet catching up in India. Naturally, there is demand here, as it is elsewhere. Ask chef Nadeau about what makes the French cuisine special and much sought-after, and he says, it is because “French pastries and cuisine are the best”.