Perched at an altitude of 1,496 metres, Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, is a hill station that still retains the charm of its colonial past while embracing the rhythm of modern life. Known as the Scotland of the East, it unfolds in rolling pine-clad hills, mist-laden mornings, cascading waterfalls and music drifting through cool mountain air. The city has an easy cosmopolitan spirit, shaped by its Khasi heritage, missionary influences, and a youthful energy that finds expression in cafés, concerts and bustling bazaars.
Getting to Shillong is a scenic adventure in itself. The nearest major airport is in Guwahati, about a hundred kilometres away (but, of course, you can also fly into Shillong’s own airport at Umroi, about thirty kilometres away, though flights are only from a few airports). From Guwahati, it’s a three-hour drive through Assam into the cloud country of Meghalaya. The road passes by Umiam Lake, a vast reservoir often blanketed in early morning mist, offering a first glimpse of the region’s dreamlike beauty. The drive from Guwahati remains the most popular and picturesque approach, with shared cabs, buses and private taxis operating regularly.
The best time to visit Shillong is from September to May, when the weather is mild and the skies clear. Spring brings a burst of blooms across the hills, while autumn and winter offer crisp air and vibrant festivals. The monsoon, from June to August, drenches the town in heavy rain, turning every slope into a green cascade, though landslides and mist often make travel unpredictable. For those who enjoy the drama of rain and waterfalls, the monsoon season has its own irresistible charm.
At the heart of Shillong lies Ward’s Lake, a century-old promenade fringed with flowering gardens and willow trees. It’s a favourite evening haunt for both locals and visitors, perfect for leisurely walks or a short boat ride. The Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians, painted in serene shades of blue, is another city landmark — its stained glass windows and tranquil setting offering a quiet refuge. Above the city rises Shillong Peak, the highest point in the area, from where one can take in panoramic views of the rolling hills and the urban sprawl nestled between them. On the outskirts, Elephant Falls tumbles in three tiers through dense greenery, its thunderous roar echoing through the forest.
Shillong also reveals the cultural heart of the Northeast at the Don Bosco Museum, a seven-storeyed building that houses artefacts, costumes, and traditions of the region’s many tribes. It offers a rare, comprehensive glimpse into the life and lore of this diverse frontier. For those seeking a connection with nature and folklore, the Mawphlang Sacred Grove, about twenty-five kilometres from the city, is an ancient forest preserved through Khasi spiritual beliefs. Guided walks through its moss-draped trees and orchids bring alive tales of forest spirits and a deep respect for the natural world.
Life in Shillong moves to a musical beat. The city has earned a reputation as India’s rock capital, and live music is part of its identity. Evenings come alive in cafés and pubs like Dylan’s Café, named in homage to Bob Dylan, or Cloud 9, where local bands often perform to packed crowds. The café culture blends the local with the global — strong coffee, homemade bakes, and the warmth of conversation. The markets, meanwhile, offer a different rhythm. Police Bazaar is the commercial heart of the city, lively and colourful, filled with food stalls, local crafts and chatter. For a more traditional experience, Lewduh or Bara Bazaar, one of the oldest markets in the region, provides a sensory overload of produce, textiles and tribal goods brought in from the surrounding hills.
Cuisine in Shillong is as distinctive as its culture. Khasi dishes such as jadoh — rice cooked with pork and local spices — and dohneiiong — pork in a dark sesame sauce — are staples of the local palate. Tungrymbai, a fermented soybean preparation, adds a rich, earthy flavour to meals, while sweet rice fritters called pukhlein are popular as snacks. Vegetarian travellers will find plenty to enjoy as well, thanks to Shillong’s cosmopolitan eateries and their creative menus featuring local produce, organic salads, and fusion dishes.
Accommodation options in Shillong range from heritage properties like the Tripura Castle, which once belonged to the royal family of Tripura, to lakeside luxury at Ri Kynjai overlooking Umiam Lake, to cosy homestays and guesthouses tucked away in quiet neighbourhoods. Wherever one stays, the sense of calm and community is unmistakable.
From Shillong, travellers can easily explore some of Meghalaya’s most iconic destinations. Cherrapunji, or Sohra, lies about fifty-five kilometres away and is famous for its living root bridges, misty valleys, and record-breaking rainfall. Mawlynnong, around eighty kilometres from the city, has been celebrated as Asia’s cleanest village, where flower-lined paths and bamboo walkways reflect the community’s deep respect for cleanliness and order. Further south, Dawki, on the border with Bangladesh, is known for the crystal-clear waters of the Umngot River, where boats appear to float on air.
Despite its growing popularity, Shillong retains an intimacy that sets it apart from other hill towns. The scent of pine, the sound of rain on tin roofs, the laughter of schoolchildren in crisp uniforms, and the sudden sight of clouds sweeping across the streets all add to its poetry. To truly experience Shillong is to slow down — to sip tea by Umiam Lake, wander through old colonial lanes, listen to impromptu music in a café, and let the rhythm of the hills find you. This is a city that doesn’t just invite you to visit; it asks you to stay a while, to breathe in its cool air, and to listen to its song.