The first sip of Assam tea at sunrise feels like a quiet invocation. Not far away, the Brahmaputra moves in a languid sweep, its waters wide enough to swallow whole islands. This is Guwahati, the gateway to the Northeast, where a four-day culinary journey with Chef Thomas Zacharias—known simply as Chef TZac—begins. What unfolds is not just a food trail, but an exploration of memory, landscape, and culture served one plate at a time.
A Taste of Assam
The evening of arrival sets the tone. After the ice-breaking “Locavore Shuffle,” strangers quickly bond over shared appetites before sitting down to a welcome dinner steeped in the warmth of Assamese hospitality, curated with rare finesse by Chef Kashmiri Nath, who presents an exquisite journey through her state’s culinary heritage. Each course feels like a story — from the delicate Maah Proxad and smoky Gahori aru Lail Saax to the deeply comforting Bora Bhat aru Gahori and the tangy Maas Bilahi Tenga. The flavours are subtle yet layered, celebrating local ingredients like bamboo shoot, black sesame, and fermented mustard with an artist’s precision. The table gleams with brass, and the air carries the aroma of roasted garlic and mustard oil. Just when the evening seems perfect, it becomes magical — as Chef Kashmiri’s mother joins in, her soulful Assamese folk songs filling the space with emotion and nostalgia. It’s more than a meal; it’s an immersion into Assam’s heart — where food, music, and memory blend seamlessly.
Morning in Guwahati begins in the market, where the day’s catch glistens on bamboo mats and the air is perfumed with herbs like morapat and lemon leaf. Chef TZac pauses to explain how fermentation threads its way through Assamese foodways: bamboo shoot pickles, sun-dried fish, the tangy panch khatta condiment. Soon, the group boards a boat and the river becomes the dining room. A traditional breakfast unfolds as the Brahmaputra glitters in the early light. It’s simple fare, but under an open sky with kingfishers darting past, it feels elevated to ritual, especially as celebrity chef Atul Lahkar is at hand to explain the nuances of Assamese cuisine.
Fields and Fusion in Meghalaya
The road into Meghalaya winds through rolling hills until Ri Bhoi district appears—lush, unhurried, green to the horizon. A farm visit reveals life lived in rhythm with the land. Guests take a walk through the fields, before sitting down to a meal that tastes of immediacy: pumpkin leaves stir-fried with garlic, pork stewed with roselle leaves, and rice so freshly milled it seems to breathe steam. Lunch here is not plated for style but for nourishment, eaten with hands, flavoured with conversation.
By evening, the convoy reaches Shillong. Dinner at Rynsan is a reminder that even in the “Scotland of the East,” tradition can play with modernity. The restaurant’s famed fusion plates reinterpret Khasi staples and the meal unfolds like a vibrant celebration of Meghalaya’s earthy bounty, where every dish speaks of the hills, forests, and hearths of the land. The evening begins with the comforting warmth of Pashor Syrwa, a local soup, before moving into the refreshing wild fern salad and the Rynsan Garden greens paired with shrimp. Appetisers like Putharo Sliders—both smoked pork and vegetarian—arrive in perfect portions, while Jauir Wings, Funky Fish, and Bamboo Shoot Salad add a burst of tang and texture. The mains layeri the flavours of the Khasi kitchen: Rynsan Crispy Pork with Jyllang, Doh Sniyar Khleh, and Kholar Bean Datshi blend smoky, spicy, and umami notes with rustic ease. Jadoh and Nei Long Fried Rice anchor the meal, filling the air with familiar aromas of turmeric and pork fat. It all culminates in a delicate Nei Long Pannacotta, where sweetness meets the essence of the hills—turning the dinner into an immersive, living expression of Khasi culture and cuisine.
We are here courtesy JrnyOn, an experiential travel startup co-founded by Sanjith Mukund and Vidyanand Murunnikara, headquartered in the UK with a regional presence in Bangalore. The platform enables content creators, experts, and influencers—chefs, adventurers, wellness specialists, photographers, etc.—to design and lead multi-day journeys for their audiences. JrnyOn handles the complex logistics, marketing, and operations, so that creators can focus on the travel vision and meaningful experiences. This is a Maestro Jrny led by Chef TZac. What makes JrnyOn stand out is its emphasis on authenticity, local connection, and allowing travellers to see destinations through the lens of creators they follow. It also works to bring small, remote experience providers into its fold, so that more voices and hidden gems are part of the travel experience. This is especially pertinent in a region like Northeast India.
JrnyOn’s Founder Sanjith Mukund says, “JrnyOn’s experiences are curated for travellers passionate about their interests and Maestro Jrnys are a way to dive into their chosen worlds with well-known experts by their side. These influencers or Maestros are the soul of the experiences; we are here to help transform their vision into their dream journey and bring them together with their audience. Our Maestro Jrnys are built keeping in mind that many of our audiences are solo travellers or couples and are looking to join like-minded strangers and build lasting friendships while traveling. Everyone is invited!”
Street Food Stories
The next morning begins at Bara Bazar, alive with vendors calling out, peddling their wares. They say you can find anything in this legendary, sprawling market. Breakfast is jadoh—the Khasi rice pulao cooked with pork fat—served hot in enamel plates. Paired with spicy chutneys and a cup of tea so strong it bites, it is the kind of meal that lodges itself in memory.
Later, under the watchful eye of MasterChef India first runner-up Nambie Marak—who hails from the Garo Hills of Meghalaya—travellers learn to fold their hands into the rhythm of Khasi cooking. Under her guidance, kyat—a dish of marinated fish with vegetables—takes shape, while dohneiiong, pork cooked in a paste of sesame seeds, simmers in iron pots. The afternoon ends with lunch on long wooden tables, the food both a lesson and a feast.
Evening brings the chaos and joy of Mylliem, a small village near Shillong where street food is king. Smoke curls from makeshift grills, carrying the aroma of sizzling doh shain, minced beef balls fried crisp. Blood sausages—doh snam—are not for the faint-hearted, but adventurous eaters relish their earthy richness. Sweet pu tharo rice pancakes balance the savoury, offering a soft landing for palates tested by spice and smoke.
A Farewell Feast
On the final evening, a farewell dinner ties the trail together. The spread is generous—platters of smoked meats, steamed rice cakes, piquant chutneys—the boldest take on Khasi food we’ve had so far. What began as a group of strangers has by now transformed into a table of friends, bound by shared meals and stories.
When the journey ends in Shillong, what remains is more than a catalogue of dishes. It is the memory of mist lifting over Ri Bhoi farms, the tang of fermented rice at dawn, the laughter exchanged over a bowl of jadoh, and the warmth of people who open their kitchens as easily as their hearts. Assam and Meghalaya reveal themselves not just in landscapes, but in flavours that carry the soil, the rivers, and the centuries within them. A true adventure!