When the monsoon sweeps across India, few places embrace it as wholeheartedly as Meghalaya — the “abode of clouds.” Between June and September, this northeastern state transforms into a surreal world of mist-wrapped hills, cascading waterfalls, and emerald forests. What elsewhere might be a season to stay indoors becomes, in Meghalaya, a time of awakening — when every trail glistens, every leaf glows, and the land hums with the rhythm of rain.
Travelling through Meghalaya in the rains is an experience of intimacy with nature. In Sohra (Cherrapunji), once the wettest place on earth, the downpour is a way of life. The roar of Nohkalikai Falls becomes thunderous, plunging dramatically into the deep blue pool below, while nearby Dainthlen and Seven Sisters waterfalls appear and vanish in veils of cloud. The living root bridges of Nongriat glisten with moss, their sinewy roots slick and strong, carrying trekkers through the drizzle to hidden valleys where the rain feels eternal.
Shillong, the capital, wears the rain like a shawl. The rolling Khasi Hills around the city are often wrapped in fog, lending its colonial cottages and pine groves a melancholic charm. Cafés come alive with the aroma of local coffee, and impromptu music sessions keep the spirit warm. A short drive away, the Umiam Lake swells into a vast, silver mirror reflecting the moods of the changing sky — perfect for those who enjoy boating amid drifting mist.
Further south, in the Jaintia Hills, the rains reveal the secret heart of Meghalaya — the caves. Places like Liat Prah and Mawsmai offer glimpses into ancient limestone formations, their chambers echoing with dripping water. Villages like Shnongpdeng and Dawki, famed for the Umngot River’s glassy clarity, take on a different hue during the rains — the water turns emerald, the surrounding cliffs alive with tiny rivulets tumbling down their sides.
What truly sets monsoon travel in Meghalaya apart, though, is the human connection. The Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo communities have learned to live in harmony with the rain — celebrating it through songs, myths, and rituals. Visitors who walk with local guides through sacred groves or along community-built bamboo bridges discover not just landscapes, but a living philosophy that reveres water as life itself.
Yes, the rain can be relentless. Roads may turn muddy, and treks demand patience. But those who embrace the monsoon’s mood find in Meghalaya a sense of magic — of time slowing down, of nature taking over. It’s not about sightseeing; it’s about surrender.
Because in Meghalaya, during the rains, you don’t just watch the clouds — you walk among them.