The ride from Manali to Leh has come to be one of the most revered rides in the world and pretty much the holy grail for Indian motorcyclists. Royal Enfield Himalayan Odyssey has been a comprehensive package for hundreds of riders each year who wish to embark on the ride from Delhi to Leh on their own RE motorcycles or borrow one from the manufacturer. This year, the ride saw people from across the country and beyond come together. We found one of the riders to have a very intriguing story and wanted to know more about her motorcycling experience. Meet Tiffany Coates, the 52-year-old has been riding since 1997 when she rode from the UK to India.
In her experience of riding bikes for some 22 years, Tiffany has ridden on in various countries of Asia, Africa, Europe, North America, South America and in Australia. We got in a conversation with the adventurer to know more about what motorcycles bring to her life and her experience at Royal Enfield Himalayan Odyssey.
What or who inspired you to start riding motorcycles?
No one in my family rides a motorcycle, it was the love for travelling that started me off on two wheels. There was no Internet, and so I hadn’t heard of other motorcycle travellers except Ted Simon (author of Jupiter’s Travels). But I had always done a lot of backpacking and travelled around the world.
Then one day, a chance conversation with my best friend Becky, about my desire to visit India ended up with us deciding to travel there together and we would do it on a motorcycle. The fact that neither of us owned a bike, had a licence or even knew how to ride didn’t deter us!
We did a five-day intensive training course, passed our tests, and two months later we set off, heading east across Europe towards India.
Your ride adventure from the UK to India. Did you face any challenges on the road as a woman motorcyclist and what was your go-to mantra to overcome them?
We had many adventures along the way, nearly all of them good ones as we seemed to be welcomed everywhere we went. I have a theory that people are more likely to be friendly and to offer shelter and help when they realise it’s women riding and not men. There can be occasional unwanted male attention but we found it easy to avoid it or just to move on. As for a mantra, there wasn’t really one as such but we did insist that we had to have fun and enjoy our time on the road and we would sing “We have all the time in the world…” as a reminder that we had no time limit and could take as much time as we needed.
You’ve done rides to places like Everest Base camp and more. How would you compare them to your experience at Himalayan Odyssey?
It was great to be on an extended ride where everyone is riding their own Motorcycles from the Royal Enfield stable. The sense of camaraderie was wonderful and it was interesting to be part of such a large and varied group. The Himalayas are unbeatable as a mountain range to ride through and the route to and through Ladakh is really very special with its breath-taking landscapes and challenging riding. It’s actually harder than the ride up to Everest Base Camp which adds to the sense of achievement I felt with completing the Himalayan Odyssey.
You’ve been riding for well over 20 years. What makes you keep going? What does your motorcycle mean to you? What is your fondest memory from the road?
I feel very lucky to have discovered the incredible way of life that riding a motorcycle can bring, and I still get a thrill every time I ride – even when it’s just my daily commute to work (although I can drive a car, I’ve never owned one). I still ride because I enjoy it and have no plans to stop, plus there are always more places to explore in the world.
Thelma, my bike has been a constant companion on my trips, we’ve been through a lot together as we’ve ridden across every continent. We’ve coped with sandstorms while riding through deserts, fled from charging elephants, tackled dangerous river crossings in remote places when there’s no-one else around and to fall would be a disaster. I’ve also used Thelma as a bed to sleep on, to tether my tent to in hurricanes and as a getaway vehicle from tricky situations!
My fondest memory? That’s a difficult question to answer, there have been so many outstanding moments, but I do think, going back to my first journey, the incredible moment when we crossed the border from Pakistan into India after several months and many adventures on the road. We’d set off knowing nothing about motorcycles and not having travelled with a vehicle before, we just had a crazy idea and a dream of riding to India, and we’d done it. It felt almost overwhelming and it made me realise that I am capable of achieving anything that I put my mind to.
Royal Enfield Himalayan Odyssey 2018: Delhi to Leh on a bike with 11 amazing women riders
There are many budding women motorcyclists in India and many who wish to start riding but have been discouraged owing to stereotypes against women who ride. Would you like to send out a message to such aspiring riders as to what can riding a motorcycle bring to their lives?
India is gradually changing as more and more women take to two wheels and show that they are capable of anything that a man can do. I’m so impressed by those women I meet who against the odds have challenged the stereotypes and gone out there to show that they can ride. I’d love to encourage as many women as possible to break down those barriers that are preventing them from riding and to strive for the independence and fun that riding a bike can bring. Riding with a group of women can be supportive and encouraging so I would recommend that they look for kindred spirits to share their experiences with and to learn from.
