Best known as the birth place of Indian coffee, Chikmagalur has more to it than just coffee estates. It will satiate the interests of both history and wildlife lovers
The coffee estates of Chikmagalur have been a big tourist draw in Karnataka for many decades. It may not be a celebrated destination yet for overseas travellers and is still viewed as a spot that is frequented only by the discerning domestic backpacker. A three-day visit is sufficient to capture all that Chikmagalur has to offer but the short stay can be quite refreshing if one knows how to maximise the trip.
Best known as the birth place of Indian coffee, Chikmagalur rests itself in the Malnad region of Karnataka with the beautiful Western Ghats providing it the backdrop that it deserves. The Hoysala dynasty paraded its wares in these hilly parts, which are blessed with heavy rains and lush green forests. Rivers like Tunga and Bhadra have their origins in these hills, capped by Mulayangiri, the highest peak in Karnataka. The place also has a clutch of ancient temples, which can be quite a sight even for people with insignificant interest in historical monuments.
But being someone with an eye for business details, the charm of coffee estates topped all other items on the to-do, to-see list. The story goes that around 1600 AD, the Sufi saint Baba Budan, on his return from his pilgrimage to Mecca, bought seven seeds to Chikmagalur and planted them on the slopes of Baba Budanagiri Hills. The fertile lands of the region then took care of the rest. The Serai, Chikmagalur, where I stayed, had a good cover of coffee plantations. Their aroma alone keeps you relaxed. An early morning walk through Serai?s mini forest cover is a rejuvenating experience. Both Arabica and Robusta are grown here. While Robusta is grown at the lower levels, Arabica is grown at an elevation of 3,000-6,000 feet. If one is interested in seeing coffee being grown on a larger scale, a visit to Kudregundi, which is a 400-acre plantation, makes for a good visit. No wonder the Coffee Board of India has set up its premier coffee research institute here. The best time to visit the plantations is around March or April as the estates bloom around this period.
After having done the estate rounds, it may be a good idea to head for the hills. Mulayangiri is an obvious destination, seated 6,317 feet above sea level. About 28 km from Chikma galur, this peak is part of the Baba Budangiri range. Once on top, it offers a spectacular sunset view.
Kemmanagundi, located 55 km north of Chikmagalur, has some good forests for us to explore. This was the summer retreat of Krishnaraja Wodeyar, thanks to its cool climes. It is ringed in by the Baba Budangiri range, complete with cascades, mountains streams and green, lush vegetation. Its ornamental gardens, mountains and valleys make this a worthwhile visit.
If you think these trips are too ?touristy?, there?s wildlife to cheer you up. The Bhadra wildlife sanctuary is a good start. The 495 sqkm sanctuary and Project Tiger reserve is a great reservoir of varied flora and fauna. It was constituted in 1974. This is a good place to head to, should the serene Chikmagalur environment tire you a bit.
For the historically oriented there are the temple wonders. And what better than Belur & Halebidu, a deemed UNESCO world heritage site. In the 16th century, Belur & Halebidu were at the heart of the Hoysala empire. The most prestigious temple in Belur is the Chennakeshava, a monumental edifice that took 103 years to complete because of the intricate details. The Shiva temple of Hoysaleshwara is unique for its two shrines. The temple is twice the size of Belur?s Chennakeshava. It took 105 years to complete this structure. Sharavanabelagola is not far either. Built in the 10th century, it has the largest monolithic statue of Lord Bahubali in the world, carved out of a single block of granite. The base of of the statue has inscriptions in Kannada and Tamil as well as the oldest evidence of written Marathi.
For a short holiday, so much of moving around can be quite tiresome. After all, vacations are for rejuvenation. The Serai Chikmagalur provides that in ample measure. Each cottage here is a combination of the classic and contemporary. The structure is built along the central water axis, which forms a symmetry that exudes a certain sense of calm. Each residence is surrounded by greenery and boasts of natural rosewood floors, a private pool and a gazebo.
Needless to say, it was not easy to drive back after such a wonderful stay in coffee country.
(The writer?s stay at Chikmagalur was hosted by The Serai)
