SOME TOPICS need no debate or prolonged discussions. Then there are some that invite multiple opinions, but none of value really (think politics and cricket). Finally, there are fields where the only opinion that matters is yours and each time you revisit the subject, you find your stance somewhat altered?it tells us something about our own sensitivities and proclivities. Wine belongs to this category of rumination.
Recently, in California, I managed to squeeze in a winery as part of a pilgrimage that is a must when in these parts of the world. The chosen winery this time around was Honig. Honig is German for honey, which explains their logo: a bee on the bottle. It also represents their stress on ecological harmony and sustainability, for bees can only thrive where nature is in balance.
But Michael Honig couldn?t have known all this when he went back to his family ranch in the early 80s, all of 22 years old, and decided to make wine and revive his grandfather?s unfulfilled dream. His grandpa, Louis Honig, was a marketing professional, who had grown and sold grapes from this farm and always aspired to retire and make wine here. The dream was completed when the first vintage of their Sauvignon Blanc was made in the garage in 1981 and went on to win coveted awards. And so the die was cast: the Honigs would be winemakers thereon. The rest of the family moved back, too, and started assisting with various roles around the winery and, soon enough, they were in business and in much demand.
But commercial expansion isn?t how this winery has planned its growth. Over 50 years since Louis first planted Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon at his vineyard, the house even today produces wines solely from these two grapes. The idea was simple: work with nature and don?t tweak it too much. The Californian weather is great for certain grapes and not so great for others, and they were wise enough not to change the course of nature. Not to say that other wineries don?t make great Chardonnay, Pinot or Merlot, etc, but, at Honig, they have had their vision rather lucid from the start.
The wines are delicious, showing elegance and depth even while being approachable and not too daunting. The alcohol levels are fairly contained for this part of the world and that plays a very important role in making these wines supple and smooth yet not excessively heady. We got to try the Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon in two versions?the generic Napa one and the more specific Rutherford variants?and the stylistic differences were apparent from the first sip. It showed great focus in their winemaking approach in being able to preserve the innate nature of the crop that goes into each wine. Also, there seemed to be enough variety on the table for none of us to feel the absence of a creamy Chardonnay or a fruity Pinot Noir. There may not be many winemakers who are as astute (as also somewhat eccentric) as Michael, but it is good to know that these lands are in safe hands and the wines turn out more than just fine.
The lesson for Indian winemakers could be that they, too, should learn to focus on their strengths and, more importantly, their land?s strengths to make wines that nature yields forth rather than trying to squeeze their resources to satiate what the market trends seem to be hinting at. In the long term, a good understanding of your land and a strong determined belief in your approach are what really contribute to sustained success. As for Honig wines, the good news is that they are available in India; not exactly cheap, but nowhere nearly as exorbitantly-priced as other good Californian wines usually are. And one sip should be enough to convert you to their brand of genius. But, as I said above, wine is all about introspection, so don?t take my word for it, try it and then decide.
The writer is a sommelier