Before you gasp and lick your index to turn the page over quickly, let me just say this: this here is not about all that is wrong with our local wines. This is more about wines and their general state of acceptance in India. The latter is a lot easier to write about, well at least more positive and it can fit into the space here that I intend to fill.
I have been following the wine industry fairly closely for over half a decade (I could say five years, but this way it sounds longer) and the way things have changed, people may need an entire lifetime to witness the same in the Western world.
In the beginning, even before my return from Europe, the market was as pure and virgin like a tween. There was a lot to do but nobody to really do it and conversely, those who wanted to be the pioneers realised they would need deep pockets. Many years passed and the number of importers grew, almost multiplied. Today I can easily count about a double dozen of good level-headed importers who are serious about their work and passionate about their wines.
Gradually, the quality of wine imported also improved, becoming more refined and defined. I foresee a time when importers will get region specific, presenting variety and depth from a few places rather than a larger but feeble footprint.
Wine also helped many allied business develop rapidly. Sadly though this wasn?t driven by passion at all; this was driven by pure monetary motives ? local wineries started dotting the scene trying to cash in with wine that was sick to taste, wine clubs and associations headed by wine-illiterates reared their ugly head, fly-by-night wine consultancies sprung-up ? and the consumer was the one to be left with the bad taste. I tried to react, even revolt, but it wasn?t to help: they multiplied and the only thing the serious could count on was that the consumer would eventually come around thus weeding out such unwanted elements. And that brings us to today. The industry is a lot more formed, the unwanted elements exist but people are recognising them for the fiascos they are. More professionally managed units are setting up shop. Retail is opening up, hotels are contemplating sanity in pricing…It sure ain?t no Utopia but every drop counts. Italy and Australia still rule the import market with France in the upper segment and Chile and Argentina a below. New Zealand is getting there while South Africa is still flirting from a distance. Indian wines sadly remain unexceptional, nothing you would want to lose your virginity to, really. Gradually, we are getting more detailed as not just the wines? quality but everything around it is also being questioned and upgraded ? from the sanctity of the storage area to the knowledge of the server who brings it to us and the glasses we drink it in. To sum up, the wine scene is positive, land may not be on the horizon yet but at least the waters are not choppy and there is a nice wind in our sails.
I do realise that I have been fairly generic here today but gradually I will bring on the bite. Because the one thing the Indian wine industry definitely needs is an honest opinion. Not just mine, yours too.
The writer is a sommelier