Are Indian consumers drifting away from the fast fashion frenzy? Recent events in India’s clothing industry offer some clues.
Lee Cooper has launched an ECO Collection, consisting of jeans made out of recycled cigarette butts. With approximately 4.5 trillion butts littering our environment, they not only contribute to unsightly pollution but also release toxic chemicals and take years to degrade. A spokesperson of the company told FE, “Cigarette butts present a significant environmental challenge, being the most prevalent form of plastic waste globally. Our recycling process transforms these discarded cigarette butts, sourced from post-consumer waste, into a valuable resource, ensuring zero waste and environmental responsibility.”
The company uses approximately 200 cigarette butt fibers to produce one square yard of textile weighing 10.25 oz, it said. But it is not the only one dipping its toes in the business of sustainable clothing.
Virgio, another clothing company, says it stands for “pro-planet fashion” with its range of dresses, co-ords, bottomwear and topwear for women. “Our vision at Virgio goes beyond just creating eco-friendly clothes; it’s about embracing a circular, pro-planet model in fashion which is backed by technology. We understand the pressing need to reduce the fashion industry’s wastage and carbon footprint,” says Amar Nagaram, founder and CEO, Virgio.
The company sources environmentally friendly material such as modal, lyocell, cotton and recycled fabric. It is focusing on reducing waste in its production processes and is embracing ethical manufacturing practices. Its recent launch used 100% recycled materials too.
But is there demand? Certainly. Findings from a report by the Boston Consulting Group (BCG) suggest that by 2025, the market is poised to soar to an impressive $9 billion from $7.8 billion currently.
Saurabh Srivastava, vice president, Amazon Fashion, says the marketplace has observed a surge in eco-conscious brands, particularly in the direct-to-consumer (D2C) sector. “Within our apparel selection, you can find sustainable options such as Fabindia’s eco-friendly offerings, M&S’s linen collections, and brands like Vero Moda and Suta,” he says. “These brands leverage cutting-edge technology and processes to deliver exciting styles that resonate with the fashion sensibilities of young Indian consumers.”
Experts add that this shift is being primarily driven by the younger generations, particularly younger Millennials and Gen Z, who are more conscious about the environmental and social impacts of their purchasing decisions.
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According to experts, the surge stems from the staggering amount of waste generated by the industry and worries about its impact on nature. Historically, fashion companies would unveil new clothing lines biannually, typically coinciding with the spring and summer seasons. However, influential brands like Zara and H&M, also widely popular in India, disrupted the cycle by introducing collections all year round, aligning with the latest fashion shows and trends.
According to a 2022 report titled ‘Circular Economy in Municipal Solid and Liquid Waste’ by the Union Ministry of Housing and Urban Affairs, textiles constituted a significant portion of the total dry waste generated from municipal sources in 2021, amounting to 15%. This placed textiles as the third-largest dry waste stream, following plastics (45%) and paper/cardboard (21%). Additionally, The Indian Textile Journal reported that annually, over 1 million tonnes of textiles, predominantly polyester, are discarded, primarily originating from households.
As the negative impacts of fast fashion become more apparent, there is a growing movement towards slower, more sustainable fashion practices, say experts. “Consumers are increasingly prioritising quality over quantity and seeking out brands that offer transparency and accountability in their production processes,” says Yasin Hamidani, director, Media Care Brand Solutions. “This trend is encouraging fashion companies to reevaluate their business models and explore more sustainable alternatives.”
While there are plenty of opportunities, the industry has many hurdles to cross. Ambika Sharma, founder and MD, Pulp Strategy, points out that the supply chain is complex as sourcing sustainable materials and ensuring ethical labour practices require transparency and traceability, adding to the production cost. That apart, sustainable alternatives are often pricier, impacting profit margins and pricing strategies for the brand. “Sourcing costs can be 50-200% higher based on the fabric you’re using,” adds Nagaram of Virgio. This is a big challenge for the industry, especially as Indian consumers can be very price-sensitive.
Moreover, navigating regulatory standards concerning sustainability claims is another intricate aspect for businesses in this sector.
Given the complexities, experts say a brand selling eco-friendly clothing can make a mark with transparent communication about sourcing, manufacturing, and environmental practices. Leveraging social media, influencers, and content marketing can help build a loyal customer base. Competitive pricing attracts budget-conscious consumers too. “Targeting metropolitan areas like Delhi-NCR, Mumbai, Bengaluru and Pune, known for their environmentally conscious demographics, presents significant opportunities. Online platforms reach consumers across India, including Tier 2 and Tier 3 cities, where demand for sustainable fashion is growing,” concludes Media Care’s Hamidani.
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