When HAVELI, the old restaurant at The Taj Mahal Hotel, Mansingh Road, New Delhi, shut down, it was decided to leave the wall with the mural as it is. The reason was simple: the mural had been painted by artist Anjolie Ela Menon when she was an ?emerging artist? some 30-odd years ago. Varq was built around that wall and also around the idea of bringing art to the plate. In its vision, Varq was going to be an attempt at redefining fine Indian dining, a step away from the wholesome practice of serving dal makhani out of miniature handis brought right to the table. This was going to be an experience that would be as much about presentation as about taste. But Ashish Ugal, executive sous chef at The Taj Mahal Hotel, tells me, it would be hasty and simplistic to call what Varq does as ?fusion? cuisine. While the presentation may be French in its style, the flavours are very much Indian?even if the crab is served on a crisp filo pastry.

The amuse-bouche is a bite-sized portion of khandvi, which, I am informed, was on the menu long before Narendra Modi became Prime Minister lest anyone thinks it?s an attempt at some sort of gourmet appeasement.

Famed chef Hemant Oberoi, known for his innovative approach to cuisine, conceived Varq with the aim of bringing fine dining to Indian food. It was an attempt to take away the commonly-held notion that Indian food was only about curries. At Varq, you still get a curry, but it is presented as one would present a sauce. So my kali mirch murg comes with a delicately-spiced gravy over slivers of chicken breast. For an instant, one may think it is bechamel sauce and even anticipate its taste, but at first bite, you know it?s a curry alright. It is this element of surprise on the plate, which comes without the fuss of molecular gastronomy, that delights and yet doesn?t overwhelm. And the food does look pretty.

But I am keen to explore the idea of fusion and why Varq flirted so closely with its basic tenets and yet kept away. Chef Ugal tells me that the aim was to serve authentic Indian flavours. This didn?t mean that one would avoid innovation, but that the food would stay true to its flavours. Therefore, south Indian curry patta finds its way into north Indian dishes without demur. The flavour palate is hence expanded with the use of ?idiosyncratic? combinations.

Taj kitchens have always been savvy with one ear to the ground. They have experimented and brought new cuisine concepts to India, while remaining loyal to the local palate. If there is one hotel company that does not patronise its guests? taste buds, it has to be the Taj. But it is not beyond playing with its guests? taste buds. So while dal makhani ruled north Indian restaurants and each tried to outdo the other in its preparation, Varq created lal moth, an enviable rival to the former that might even make you resent the dal makhani?s ubiquity. Furthermore, Varq sticks to the Indian route and does a tea and food pairing?showcasing its offerings of infused teas?despite its extensive wine list, making it a truly unique dining experience.

I urge chef Ugal to part with his recipe for lal moth, which has been a revelation to me and a much-needed detour from dal makhani. A man who finds it difficult to say no, he agrees. So here it is:

Lal moth

Ingredients

225g lal moth (whole)

50g Kashmiri rajma

5g salt

250g white butter

5g cumin seeds

45g garlic, chopped

30g ginger-garlic paste

10g deghi mirch powder

10g ginger, chopped

5g green chilli, chopped

75g tomato paste

150 ml cream

1 tbsp kasoori methi powder

1 tbsp oil

50g dum ki gravy

Method

Wash the lentils and put them for boiling overnight. When boiled and cooked properly, temper it. For this, put oil in a haandi, add chopped ginger, garlic, deghi mirch, green chilli, cumin seeds, ginger-garlic and tomato paste, dum ki gravy and cook .

Mix the tempering with the boiled lentils and cook together. Add salt. Finish by adding white butter, cream and kasoori methi powder. Stir and serve.

Advaita Kala is a writer, most recently of the film Kahaani. She is also a former hotelier having worked in restaurants in India and abroad