Todo Tranqui – It’s all good! A road journey in Uruguay to discover some of the best beaches in South America

February 03, 2019 2:13 AM

This progressive country has long been off the radar. But it has some of the best beaches in South America and discounts for foreign travellers

Punta del Diablo in Uruguay is the last significant beach town before the Brazilian border. (Photo: The New York Times)

“Todo Tranqui”—it’s all good!—is a phrase you get used to hearing when you spend time in Uruguay. This small country has a laidback vibe that’s like Xanax for the soul, plus some of the best beaches in South America to boot. Exploring them usually means renting a car in the capital, Montevideo, and cruising north-east to discover peaceful hippie communities, chic fish restaurants by the sand dunes, a newly lively water-sports scene and off-the-grid villages where you can sleep in a hammock and commune with sea lions.

And you can do it on a budget: As of September, the government has discounted restaurant and rental car bills by 22% when paid with a foreign credit card (foreign travellers don’t pay the country’s value added tax, or IVA). Foreigners don’t pay the IVA on hotels, either. This regulation is in place until April and makes a huge difference in making the country affordable for visitors. While Uruguay is still mostly off the radar, tourism numbers last year were up by 50% in some places. While the summer season runs from late December until the end of February, the warm weather actually begins in November and lingers until the end of March.

There are wineries to visit and whales to watch. But the main appeal of Uruguay, a progressive country wedged between two giants led by right-wing politicians, Argentina and Brazil, is taking it easy: locals are as chilled out as it gets, more than 10 cars is a traffic jam and cows outnumber humans four to one.

Driving up the coast could take five hours or, if taking time to explore each town, five days. Car rental companies — the usual international names like Hertz and some similarly priced local companies — are scattered throughout the city and at the airport. The two-lane highway that curves up the coast from Montevideo is rarely crowded, except on Sunday evenings headed back into the capital, and you’re more likely to be stuck behind an old rattletrap of a truck than to hit a line of cars. The road is well maintained, too, with gas stations along the way advertising hot water dispensers, essential for locals who go nowhere without their yerba mate tea. The countryside is flat and green, dotted with sheep and cows but few buildings once you leave Montevideo.

Posada Lune de Miel is a collection of red-painted cabins arranged around a pool in Punta del Diablo; and (right) the remoteness of Cabo Polonio is treasured by its handful of year-round inhabitants. There’s virtually no Wi-Fi and electricity is minimal (Photo: The New York Times)

The first essential stop on the coastal route is Punta Ballena (Whale Point), about 75 miles up the coast. Here, on a spike of land jutting out into the water, is Casapueblo, once the home of one of Uruguay’s best-known visual artists, Carlos Páez Vilaró. It’s now a museum filled with his colourful canvases (some in homage to his son, one of the survivors of the famous 1972 plane crash in the Andes). The eye-catching white stucco spikes and balconies of the building (there’s a hotel attached) look almost Grecian standing out against the water, and the museum stays open until the spectacular sunset over the sea is finished each day. (Entry, 320 pesos or about $10.)

A few miles away lies Punta del Este, favourite vacation spot of well-heeled Argentines and Brazilians, who party until dawn in the clubs and recover on the beach all day. It’s the biggest concentration of glitz and glam in a country where jeans count as formal wear, and while it doesn’t hold much appeal for the frugal traveller, it’s worth stopping for a stroll along the beach and a quick selfie with Los Dedos, the “hand in the sand,” an enormous sculpture of fingers emerging from the beach.

For meals, avoid the pretentious overpriced dining rooms and head instead to Cantina del Vigia, where steaks, pizza and vegetables all take a turn in the twin wood-fired ovens before arriving at the simple wooden tables. Dinner for two, around 2,000 pesos.

While Punta is all high heels and champagne, Jose Ignacio, a small beach community 45 minutes farther up the coast, is understated wealth. The dirt streets are home to elegant boutiques, and its top restaurant, La Huella, is a beach bar — though a beach bar with outstanding grilled fish and elegant cocktails. It’s so popular that even if you make a reservation, you can easily wait an hour for your table; in laidback Uruguayan fashion, there’s no hurry. Sip on a chilled glass of a local sauvignon blanc as you wait; if the sea breeze gets chilly, they’ll lend you one of the chic wool blankets they also offer for sale. It’s more of a splurge: Lunch for two with drinks is around 2,500 pesos.

Jose Ignacio’s modernist concrete and glass beach houses are some of the most beautiful, and staying for a couple of nights to spend afternoons on the pristine beach is well worth it. Airbnbs are easy to come by, and a weekend in March in a well-equipped one-bedroom a block or two from the beach can be had for $250.

Cruising north from Jose Ignacio on Route 10 brings you to a singular quirk of infrastructure, Puente Laguna Garzon. This is a ring bridge designed by Uruguayan architect Rafael Viñoly, and it makes a circle across the water of Laguna Garzon. Tempting as it is, you can’t just drive around and around (it shunts you off) but you can walk around and take in the views of the kitesurfers practicing nearby.

Wind sports have taken off in Uruguay in recent years; now it’s not just the fishermen who make their living from the lagoons. Surf schools have opened up, and you’re likely to see kitesurfers and windsurfers making the most of the Atlantic breezes wherever you go.

The farther up the coast you get, the more bohemian the country becomes, but before driving to more northern beach towns, take a detour about 30 miles inland to Bodega Garzón, the country’s premier winery. Built from local stone and glass, the modernist winery boasts extraordinary views of vineyards, rolling hills, ponds and beautiful fields from its hilltop perch. The absolute quiet of the space, disturbed only by the occasional hare, capybara or long-tailed lizard, is a reminder of how empty much of the country’s interior is.

The winery’s temperate climate and proximity to the sea make the wine, especially its albariños and tannats, some of the country’s most complex. An afternoon here — particularly if you splurge on lunch at the on-site restaurant, where the menu was conceived by Argentine fire-master Francis Mallmann — is a delight, and a last gasp of upscale indulgence before entering the department of Rocha, where everything immediately becomes much more laid-back. Tours with tastings range between 800 and 2,500 pesos depending on the wines sampled, while a five-course lunch comes in at 4,300 pesos, not including booze.

Punta del Diablo is the last significant beach town before the Brazilian border, and its unevenly paved streets and ramshackle restaurants get crowded in the high season, with families spending entire days on the miles-long stretch of beach and groups of young people filling the bars in the evenings. Its small restaurants and shacks selling carved mate gourds and seashell mobiles are pushed up from the sea in a semicircle, looking out onto rocks and waves that start accumulating surfers when the wind picks up in the evenings.

Most shops will close between 2 and 5 pm — inconvenient if you’re a North American who likes to dine at 6, but perfectly normal for a country that has dinner at 11. If you’re here in the off-season, bring plenty of cash: ATMs are only brought in for the summer months, and not every place takes a credit card.

A series of shops selling fresh fish and seafood line the street overlooking the beach, although many locals still prefer to grill beef on the parrilla (grill) of their rental house. VRBO and Airbnb have plenty of good options, but book as far in advance as possible, especially if you’re here in the high summer.

(Nell McShane Wulfhart, NYT)

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