Warming up to wine: How climate change is redefining the taste of Indian wine

Amid increasing climate uncertainty, India is ensuring that the next chapter of its wine story is shaped as much by resilience and innovation as by its terroir

Pouring Through the Heat
Pouring Through the Heat

Wine has long  been regarded as a mirror of its environment. From the slopes of Mendoza to the hills of Tuscany, every bottle reflects not only grape variety and tradition, but also the influence of climate, soil and season. These elements together form terroir—the distinctive character of a wine shaped by its natural surroundings.

For centuries, this balance remained relatively stable. Today, that equilibrium is being disrupted. Rising temperatures, erratic rainfall and extreme weather events are altering growing cycles and harvest patterns. In 2025, global wine production was estimated at around 232 million hectolitres (mhl), a modest 3% increase from the historically low 2024 harvest, but still about 7% below the five-year average. Behind these numbers lies the deeper structural shift—climate change is beginning to reshape how, where and what kind of wine the world produces.

While traditional wine regions grapple with these changes, emerging producers like India face an even more complex challenge—growing a young industry amid increasing climatic uncertainty.

Changing perception

Wine and India were not always natural companions. For decades, wine remained a niche indulgence, largely confined to luxury hotels, expatriate circles and special occasions. That perception has changed dramatically over the past 15 years.
Today, nearly 10 million Indians consume wine regularly. In 2022 alone, India drank approximately 38 million litres of wine, signalling a steady expansion of the category. “India’s wine industry is on a strong growth path. Demand is expanding beyond metros, and Tier II and III cities are increasingly adopting wine for social, dining and celebratory occasions,” says Gorakh Gaikwad, chief operating officer and chief winemaker at Sula Vineyards.

Sula’s growth mirrors the industry’s trajectory. “We have scaled production from just 50,000 bottles in 1999 to over 17 million in FY25,” Gaikwad says. “Our own-brand sales outside Maharashtra and Karnataka continue to grow in double digits.”
As domestic demand rises, Indian producers are no longer focused solely on scale. Quality, consistency and regional expression have become equally important—precisely the areas where climate volatility is creating new challenges.

Climate sensitivity

Wine is among the most climate-sensitive agricultural products in the world. Wine grapes are perennial crops, growing year after year in the same location and rooted in highly specific microclimates. Unlike annual crops that can be replanted elsewhere, vineyards represent long-term investments that depend on stable environmental conditions. “Climate change is undeniably transforming the way wine is grown and produced across the world,” Charles Joseph Donnadieu, corporate manager at The Lalit Suri Hospitality Group, tells FE.

“As temperatures rise, grapes reach maturity more quickly, pushing harvest dates earlier each year and altering the traditional rhythm of the vineyard,” he explains. “This accelerated ripening often leads to fruit with higher sugar levels, which in turn produces wines with elevated alcohol content and riper, sometimes heavier flavour profiles.”

In general, warming has accelerated the rate of fruit development. Over the past 30 years, harvest has shifted 24 days earlier in Germany, mostly due to earlier bud break (10 days earlier) and faster sugar accumulation, with the period from veraison to harvest becoming nine days shorter. However, extreme heat can interfere with fruit development—disrupting ripening, degrading aromas and stressing vines beyond their adaptive limits.

In India, these effects are compounded by erratic monsoons and water stress. Warmer ripening periods reduce acidity, alter tannin development and shift aromatic expression—fundamental elements that define a wine’s balance and ageing potential. “Prolonged heat and increasing drought conditions place significant stress on the vines,” Donnadieu says. “Water scarcity can limit vine growth and reduce grape size and yield, ultimately lowering overall production.”

Beyond yield, climate change is also altering wine composition. “These environmental shifts also affect acidity levels, tannin development, and aromatic compounds in the grapes,” he adds. “Even familiar varieties begin to taste and behave differently than they once did.”

For Indian vineyards, rainfall variability poses an equally serious threat. “Erratic monsoons make vineyard management complex. Too little rain stresses vines, while excessive rainfall increases disease pressure and disrupts harvest planning,” says Gaikwad.

The experience is not uniform across regions. “In the Solapur area, we have recorded almost double the rainfall over the past three years compared to historical data,” says Alessio Seccio, founder and director, Fratelli Vineyards. “This has increased pressure from September onwards to protect vines from downy and powdery mildew.”

The consequences can be severe. “If not managed carefully, disease can reduce both quantity and quality by up to 50%,” Seccio says. For Indian vineyards, the combined effect of heat stress and unpredictable rainfall is reshaping quantity and quality, making consistency increasingly difficult.

Overcoming challenges

As climate risks intensify, adaptation has become unavoidable. Vineyard planning in India is now increasingly climate-led rather than tradition-led. “Yes, climate trends are a key factor in vineyard planning,” Gaikwad says. “Warmer temperatures accelerate ripening, reduce acidity, and change flavour profiles.”

One response has been a shift in grape selection. “Sula monitors varietal performance in Nashik and Bengaluru, expanding heat- and drought-tolerant grapes like Mourvèdre and Grenache, while scaling back less resilient varieties,” he says.
Viticultural practices are also evolving. “We also adapt pruning, canopy management, and irrigation, and select resilient clones and suitable vineyard sites, ensuring consistent quality and long-term sustainability,” Gaikwad adds.

At Fratelli Vineyards, disease management has taken centrestage. Increased rainfall has required closer monitoring, faster intervention and higher costs, all aimed at preserving grape health without compromising quality.

Across the industry, technology is playing a growing role. Weather tracking, improved irrigation systems and disease forecasting tools are helping producers respond more quickly to extreme conditions. While these measures raise costs, winemakers increasingly view them as essential investments.

Geography itself may begin to change. “India’s wine map may evolve as cooler, higher-altitude regions show potential for certain varieties. Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, and parts of the Northeast may become relevant as research and trials progress,” Gaikwad tells FE.

Seccio echoes this view. “Heat waves and water constraints will push producers to higher altitudes and more carefully selected sites even within these states /regions,” he says. “In our case in Akluj, it is already sitting on a higher side in terms of altitude. We might see more focus on varieties that tolerate heat and drought.”

Industry-wide experimentation is expected to intensify. “There will be increase in site and variety experimentation, new plantings in higher altitude and cooler microclimates. Greater diversity of varieties—more Mediterranean and heat-tolerant grapes alongside the current staples,” Seccio says. Sustainability has also moved to the centre of adaptation strategies. “Water efficiency will be central—drip, sensors, rainwater harvesting, and better soil health,” Seccio adds.

At Sula, climate response extends beyond vineyards into operations. Over 60% of its winery and hospitality operations currently run on solar energy, with a target of 70-75%, supported by expanded battery storage.

“We reduced water use per case by 5% in FY25 and aim for further reductions and increased recycling,” Gaikwad says. “Methane capture generates clean electricity, and localised glass supply with lighter, recyclable bottles reduces emissions. These initiatives strengthen climate resilience and support our net-zero goal by 2050.”

The road ahead

Looking ahead, climate models suggest India’s wine regions will continue to face rising temperatures and greater rainfall variability. These changes could compress harvest windows, strain water resources and further alter wine styles.
“The very style and character of wines, from freshness and balance to ageing potential, are evolving,” Donnadieu says. “Winemakers are compelled to rethink long-standing practices and adapt to a climate that is changing the identity of wine itself.”

For a young industry still building scale, this presents a structural challenge. Climate adaptation is capital-intensive, and smaller producers may struggle to keep pace. Yield volatility also complicates pricing, contracts and long-term planning.
Export ambitions could face additional hurdles, as global markets demand consistency. At the same time, climate change may open new opportunities— higher-altitude vineyards, alternative grape varieties and innovative wine styles could help redefine India’s wine identity.

India’s wine stands at a critical inflection point. Consumption is rising, geographic reach is expanding and producers are investing in quality like never before. Yet the climate that underpins this growth is becoming increasingly unpredictable. 
Global warming is no longer a distant threat. It is already reshaping vineyards, altering harvests and changing the taste and structure of wines. For Indian producers, long-term success will depend on how effectively they adapt to this new reality.

This article was first uploaded on January twenty-four, twenty twenty-six, at thirteen minutes past nine in the night.