Nail art is becoming popular not without a reason. From simple looks to complex 3D designs, the creative application of colours on your fingertips is now a sought-after form of self-expression and wearable art. However, as pretty and impressive as they might look, medical experts warn of the potential risks that nail art can pose to your health – from brittle nails to fungal infections, allergic dermatitis to even skin cancer. The professionally filed and painted talons involve application of carcinogenic gels and ultraviolet radiation for drying, among other chemical contents, that can have an adverse impact on your health.
Dr Unmesh Mukherjee, consultant, radiation oncology, HCG ICS Khubchandani Cancer Centre in Colaba, Mumbai, says that while nail art is generally safe, “the professional systems to apply and remove it (gels and acrylics) carry legitimate health risks”. Nail art, according to him, has two main risk factors – the cumulative DNA damage from UV curing lamps and the aggressive chemical thinning of the natural nail plate during removal.
In a recent article, Adam Taylor, a noted columnist, writes that the nail glue used to attach acrylics to the natural nail is typically a mixture of alcohol, cyanoacrylate and photo-bonded methacrylate, with other ingredients including formaldehyde, which is a known carcinogen.
Regular users face risks ranging from brittle nails to fungal infections and allergic dermatitis. The most damaging factor, however, is not the application, but the removal process. “Soaking nails in 100% pure acetone for extended periods and then scraping the softened product off strips the protective keratin layers. Over time, this makes the natural nail as thin as paper,” he writes.
“The most significant long-term risk is ‘permanent nail dystrophy’ where the nail matrix is so damaged that the nail grows back permanently rigid or deformed,” says Dr Mukherjee. Persistent redness around the cuticle, ‘pulsing’ pain under the nail, or white, yellow, or green discolouration, which indicates an infection or nail-bed separation, otherwise known as onycholysis, are some of the warning signs for permanent nail dystrophy, he adds.
A study published in Nature Communications in January 2023 emphasises the fact that even brief exposure to these UV lamps leads to DNA damage and mutations in human cells. “A single nail session exposes one to a ‘chemical cocktail’,” says Dr Mukherjee. This cocktail offers UVA radiation emitted by the curing lamp; the toxic trio of toluene (causes nervous system damage), dibutyl phthalate (endocrine disruptor), and formaldehyde (a carcinogen); and finally acetone, which dehydrates the skin severely.
Referring to a common myth that says nails ‘need to breathe’, Dr Mukherjee explains, “Nails are dead keratin and don’t breathe; however, they do need a break from occlusive chemicals to maintain their natural moisture balance.” He further warns that it is imperative to be weary of the brands used in nail art. Many budget salons in India use products containing MMA (methyl methacrylate), a bonding agent banned in several countries for causing permanent nail loss and respiratory issues, he explains, adding: “Always ask for EMA-based (ethyl methacrylate) products, which are the safer professional standard.”
Dr Safiya Tanyeem, dermatologist, Apollo Medical Centre, Koramangala, Bengaluru, says that while the risk of cancer is generally low, it is not zero — attributing the biggest risk to the curing lamps that emit UV radiation. Risks increase with frequent treatments, poor technique, and low-quality products, she says.
“Press-ons are generally safer, as they involve less chemical exposure. Chronic nail thinning, persistent fungal infections and contact dermatitis are all long-term health risks of frequent acrylic and gel nail art,” explains Dr Tanyeem.
Prevention & aftercare
As scary as it might sound, you can, however, minimise the risks for acrylic or gel nail art. Press-on nails, for instance, are a lesser evil, when compared to acrylic, says Dr Tanyeem. “Acrylics are strong, and involve more chemicals, and therefore present a higher risk of nail damage. You can reduce the risks by using sunscreen on hands or UV-protective gloves,” she adds.
According to Dr Mukherjee, UV protective gloves are your best friend. “These are fingerless gloves, usually UPF 50+ protected, which leave only the nails exposed. They work as a shield against the UV rays. Many global brands are now easily accessible on the Internet and in specialised stores in India,” he explains. Additionally, he says, “Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher on your hands at least 20 minutes prior to your nail treatment and make sure it is water-resistant.”
Dr Mukherjee, too, advocates for press-on nails over gel or acrylic nails. “Press-on nails are significantly safer. They do not require UV radiation to cure, the adhesives are less harsh, and they can be removed using warm water and oil instead of harsh solvents. For those with sensitive skin or a family history of skin issues, press-ons are the superior choice,” he says. The UVA radiation has a higher penetration depth in the dermis, causing DNA mutations and collagen breakdown.
Dr Tanyeem suggests a handful of simple safety measures for people indulging in nail art. “Avoid peeling or picking of the nail paint, moisturise the hands daily, keep the nails clean and dry, ensure that the removal of nails is done only by a professional, and take reasonable breaks between nail sessions, allowing the nails some recovery time,” she says. The most damaging step in the nail art process is the aggressive filing and improper removal of the nail art, she adds.
An article on the effects of nail polish on nail health and safety, published by Harvard Medical School, advises that in the case of gel polish application, the customer should specify to the nail technician to avoid aggressive buffing, particularly electric buffing (often used to remove gel polish), and to not scrape the nail plate too forcefully. It also reiterates that picking or peeling of nail polish can result in brittleness of the nails.
The powder dip polish, which contains a resin often made up of chemicals used in super glue, is followed by the application of an acrylic powder, and then an activator. With these, the article says that the major concerns are sanitation and hygiene — the jars of acrylic powder are often used for multiple clients, who may dip their fingers into the jars for application. This “could become a reservoir for bacteria, fungi, and viruses”, it reads. A harsh removal process and the use of electrical files are common for this type of polish as well.
Dr Tanyeem of Apollo Medical Centre adds, “There is no blanket recommendation as such, but moderation is key. Avoid continuous back-to-back acrylic sets and allow for nail recovery time.”
Disclaimer: The information in this article is for educational and informational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. While the author has incorporated expert medical guidance while producing the story and ensured full authentic information is provided to the reader, you should always seek the advice of a qualified healthcare provider regarding a medical condition or treatment. Never disregard professional medical advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read here.