“Not to recreate Bangkok. Not to bring back the greatest hits. And definitely not to play by the rules.” This is how chef Gaggan Anand describes his comeback to India after 20 years, as he readies to open the doors of his first restaurant in India, Raga, in Delhi on August 26.
Dishing out innovative Indian cuisine at the multi-award winning restaurant, Gaggan, in Bangkok, the celebrated chef finally gets an address in his home country. A restaurant in Mumbai to be helmed by Garima Arora fell through in 2016, and Anand discontinued a residency in Delhi’s Hyatt Regency after two months in 2023, where he charged Rs 50,000 per person for a fixed menu. He returns, this time with a full-fledged establishment in a prime location on Janpath in the national capital. “Maybe some things aren’t supposed to happen quickly,” is how he describes his wait for an Indian address.
Prime Location
The story goes that Zorawar Kalra, founder of Massive Restaurants, with Masala Library one of its brands, went to Bangkok to eat at Gaggan last year. So bowled over was Kalra that he persuaded Anand to open in India, offering the prime spot on Janpath where Masala Library stood a few years back. Kalra’s reputation of a successful entreprenur, the unbeatable location, and Anand’s unfulfilled desire of a place in India all led to Raga happening.
“We were supposed to re-open Masala Library at this location, but after my meal at Gaggan a year ago in Bangkok, I was convinced that this is another level of food, which must be brought to India,” Kalra told FE. Asked about the collaboration and future plans, Kalra said: “Gaggan and I have developed a very strong working relationship. And this will lay the foundation for further collaborations. But right now we are not looking at other cities for Raga, but to make it the best it can be.”
A blend of group executive chef Rydo Anton and Gaggan Anand’s names, Raga will be helmed by Anton in the kitchen. The new restaurant promises the same cuisine Gaggan offers in Bangkok, with many of the classics such as the Yoghurt Explosion recreated in Delhi, along with some new dishes, including a vada pav re-interpretation and versions of tabak maas and nalli nihari.
“A textural, visual, emotional journey of food — to make you feel something,” is how the Delhi offering is described. With only 32 seats plus a chef’s counter facing the kitchen for five persons, the restaurant will offer a 22-course tasting menu priced at Rs 11,111 per person, with bookings and payments to be made in advance on its website. Wine and other beverage pairings are separate.
Kalra had to convince Anand in pricing of the menu, especially after the popular Hyatt residency was priced at Rs 50,000. But for a restaurant planning a long haul, moderate pricing made better sense. “Every thing is collaborative at Raga, the decor and pricing included. However, when it comes to the cuisine, the entire lead is with Gaggan and Rydo,” Kalra said.