In yet another controversy around cultural appropriation, global fashion label Ralph Lauren’s latest collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week this month has found itself under scrutiny in India, this time for showcasing traditional Indian jhumkas without acknowledging their origins. As the iconic Indian earrings made their way from Bareilly’s bazaars to Paris Fashion Week, they were presented merely as “authentic vintage accessories,” with no mention of their cultural roots.
Social media users were quick to call it out. One comment read, “The Janpath cool girl aesthetic has reached Ralph Lauren,” while another criticised the omission more sharply, calling it “peak whitewashing” and arguing that rebranding cultural symbols from the Global South without credit is far from trivial.
This isn’t an isolated case. Luxury brands have repeatedly faced backlash for drawing from Indian heritage without due recognition. Most recently, Prada came under fire for its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, where its ‘toe ring sandals’ bore a striking resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri chappals. Initially, the brand failed to credit the centuries-old GI-tagged craft that is handcrafted in Maharashtra and Karnataka, prompting criticism from artisans and cultural groups alike.
Price of Omission
The pricing disparity only added fuel to the outrage. While Kolhapuri chappals retail for around Rs 1,000 in India, Prada’s version was priced at over $1,000 (roughly Rs 1.2 lakh). Within a week of the backlash following its June 2025 show, the brand acknowledged the inspiration and announced a three-year collaboration with Indian artisans, aiming to develop Made-in-India products.
Yet, such instances are part of a longer pattern. Global labels have frequently borrowed from Indian craftsmanship, often without attribution. From designer handbags shaped like auto-rickshaws to high-priced kaftans inspired by traditional kurtas, the line between inspiration and appropriation continues to blur. Even intricate crafts like Lucknowi mukaish embroidery and Kashmiri wood carving have appeared on international runways and luxury products, sometimes without credit to the artisans who have preserved these traditions for generations.
Take for instance, Louis Vuitton’s Spring/ Summer ’26 menswear collection featured handbags fashioned as mini auto rickshaws. Italian brand Gucci sold ‘floral embroidery organic linen kaftan‘ priced at $3,500 (Rs 2.5 lakh), inspired by the desi kurta. Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut featured $200,000 (Rs 1.7 crore) ivory-and-gold coat, featured at Paris Fashion Week in 2025, used traditional Lucknowi mukaish embroidery, requiring 12 Indian artisans over 34 days to complete.
The coat sparked controversy for failing to credit the Indian artisans or the traditional craft’s heritage. Dolce and Gabbana launched its new ‘Trevi Bag’ collection featuring intricate Kashmiri wood carving patterns on their bags priced at RS 20 lakh. The brand gives due acclaim to Fontana di Trevi, an 18th century marvel of Rome on one side, but there is no credit for the Kashmiri wood carving patterns used on the other half of the bag.
The story of the jhumka itself underscores what’s at stake. Worn for centuries across the Indian subcontinent, from temple jewellery in south India to bridal heirlooms, the jhumka is more than an accessory-it’s a cultural symbol.
However, there is a parallel narrative of recognition as Indian designers are gaining global visibility, with international celebrities embracing their work on prestigious platforms.
Red Carpet Reclamation
At the 2026 Oscars, several global names chose Indian couture and jewellery, highlighting the growing appreciation for authentic craftsmanship.
Korean-Canadian filmmaker, writer, and animator, Maggie Kang, co-director of KPop Demon Hunters, won the Oscar for Best Animated Feature Film at the 2026 Academy Awards. Kang wore Rimzim Dadu, the Indian couture brand known for its sculptural metal craftsmanship, bringing a touch of Indian design to Oscar’s party scene. Many other global stars chose Indian couturiers and jewellers for the big night.
Sinners actor Li Jun Li stunned in Gaurav Gupta fiery red ensemble while South Korean singer Rei Ami wore a Rahul Mishra black-and-gold embellished mini dress. American actor Ginnifer Goodwin wore an 18K gold Sabyasachi choker and paired it with sheer black organza gown. British fashion journalist Zanna Roberts Rassi wore Swadesh x Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla featuring ikat-inspired beaded crop top featured sculpted power shoulders and was meticulously hand-embroidered with thousands of bugle beads, stones, and crystals.
Even if global fashion continues to draw from India’s rich design legacy, the conversation is shifting, from mere inspiration to the urgent need for acknowledgment, collaboration, and respect.