A walk between Japan’s postal towns

Old meets the new on the Edo-period highway connecting Kyoto and the present-day Tokyo

August 15, 2026 21:50 IST

Walking the Nakasendo: A Journey Through Japan’s Edo-Era Postal Towns

The first thing I noticed after leaving the stone-paved streets of Magome was the bell. Hanging from a wooden post at the edge of the forest, it came with a simple instruction, “ring it loudly to keep bears away”. I gave it a hearty clang, more for the experience than out of fear, though knowing Asiatic black bears still roam these mountains added a touch of excitement to the walk.

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I had arrived in Magome, one of Japan’s best-preserved shukuba-machi, or post towns, after a journey that reflected old meeting new. The journey began with a Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nagoya, a semi-rapid train to Nakatsugawa and finally a local bus climbing into the Kiso Valley. I stayed in a traditional ryokan, where dinner featured mountain vegetables, river fish and an astonishing variety of mushrooms — food that has long sustained travellers on this route.

Magome and neighbouring Tsumago once served as vital rest stops on the nearly 500-km Nakasendo, the Edo-period highway connecting Kyoto and Edo (present-day Tokyo). Merchants, pilgrims, samurai and feudal lords would spend the night here before continuing their journeys through the mountains. Today, the 8-km trail linking the two towns lets visitors experience that history on foot. The twin Otaki and Metaki waterfalls provided a memorable stop before the trail descended into Tsumago. Unlike many heritage villages that exist solely for tourists, Tsumago still feels lived in.