The mix of American styles and global craftsmanship is a common theme in the fashion world, but a recent runway show has started a complicated talk about where designs actually come from. During Paris Fashion Week on March 8, Ralph Lauren showcased his Fall 2026 women’s collection, usually a time for fans to celebrate his classic looks.
This time, the event became a centre of debate because accessories that looked exactly like traditional South Asian jewellery were used on the runway without any mention of their history. These silver, bell-shaped earrings looked just like the jhumka – a style of jewellery that has been part of Indian culture for over two thousand years and is still a staple in the wardrobes of many modern Indian women.
Public backlash floods social media; Netizens decry ‘cultural appropriation’
Social media platforms like X and Instagram were full of criticism shortly after the show ended. Fashion critics noticed the earrings had the same layered and beaded shape as the jhumka, which dates back to the Chola Dynasty and traditional dance. Many people felt that calling these pieces vintage accessories without mentioning their South Asian roots felt like a way to erase the history of a cultural icon.
Juggernaut CEO Snigdha Sur was one of the many voices on X who questioned the brand for selling Indian fashion without giving proper credit. One user on the platform wrote a post quoting an image of the Ralph Lauren earrings, summarizing the crux of the matter: “they are gentrifying jhumkas guys.”
Several users expressed frustration, with one person saying the jewellery was part of their culture and should not be used as a costume. This situation shows the ongoing tension when Western designers use heritage from the Global South as a source of profit without giving a clear tribute to the original creators.
Another LA-based jeweller by the name of Sophia Buhai, was in hot waters online a few weeks ago due to a similar reason. The designer had vaguely listed a pair of jhumkas on their website as ‘Petite Nadia Earrings’ for a hefty cost of $695 which is over Rs 63,000 in Indian rupees. In comparison, jhumkas found in India – their country of origin – are much more affordable and worn by women across a diverse range of economic backgrounds.
The brand’s Focus on indigenous collaboration
Ralph Lauren defended the collection by explaining that the jewelry was created through its Authentic Makers and Artist in Residence programs. Deccan Chronicle reported that the brand clarified the pieces were made by Native American designers including Neil Zarama, Jimmy Begay, and TÓPA.
This project is part of a larger effort by Ralph Lauren to move away from just taking inspiration and instead work directly with the communities that have influenced the brand’s Southwestern American style for years.
Native American designs often have geometric patterns that look similar to some Eastern jewelry, but the very close resemblance to the Indian jhumka caused the most public disagreement.
This follows a similar issue from 2025 when Dior was criticized for not crediting Indian artisans for a very expensive coat featuring mukaish embroidery, and for Dolce & Gabbana’s Kolhapuri slipper fiasco. At a time when racist attitudes towards Indians on social media platforms are at an all-time high, microaggressions and blatant theft of culture without credit reflect poorly upon luxury houses that should know better.