A Mercedes-Benz is a statement – one that celebrates technological prowess, automotive history, and luxurious interiors. But last week, while driving the E-Class in a new shade called Verde silver, I realised a body colour can be a statement, too. This new colour appears to be a shade of silver with a hint of green, but in bright sunlight, a verdant green emerges from within.
Much like how the Verde silver paint reveals deep undertones, pulling up to Taj Palace, New Delhi, highlights a culinary parallel. Called Loya, this flagship restaurant that serves lunch and dinner takes you on an immersive gastronomy journey across the northern parts of the Indian subcontinent, covering the Himalayas, Punjab, and even Afghanistan.
Car and food
The E-Class is known for its effortless power, and it doesn’t need to shout to be the most capable car in the room. The food at Loya doesn’t shout either – even though it’s robust and bold (with items such as ‘gosht ki lazeez pasliyaan’ and ‘kathal baingan bharta’), and presented with a level of finesse synonymous with the Taj.
The chef at Loya told us that this is the cuisine of the soldiers of the north, native tribes, and fierce warriors, and different compared to what was usually served to the erstwhile royalty. Loya has tried to preserve the time-honoured cooking techniques of the North – the drama of ‘dhungar’ (smoke), the aromatics of ‘baghar’ (spices tempered in hot oil), and the richness of ‘dum’ (slow cooking).
Must-try food items
Most restaurants eventually end up being popular for particular food items – such as Karim’s Old Delhi for ‘mutton burrah kebabs’; Moti Mahal Daryaganj, Delhi, for ‘butter chicken’; and Bukhara at ITC Maurya for ‘dal bukhara’ and ‘sikandari raan’ – and Loya might also take that route, but as of now, almost everything is a must-try, including interesting names such as ‘siyal katlu’ (urad dal kebab); ‘dal ki chaat’; ‘murg shobat’ (chicken soup); ‘loya dum murg’ (slow-roasted whole chicken); and ‘Faridkot meat curry’ (mutton cooked with poppy seeds).
A musical journey
Just as the E-Class’s Burmester 4D surround sound system cuts-off outside noise, Loya is the first restaurant in India to launch an album (by musician Shreyas Patkar), which is a combination of classical, indie, and instrumental sets that plays as you eat.
Not for everyone
Excellence has a price. The top-of-the-line E-Class LWB 450 4Matic that we drove to Loya comes at Rs 93.5 lakh, ex-showroom, climbing to Rs 1.06 crore, on-road – significantly costlier than competitors like the BMW 5 Series LWB (Rs 75.8 lakh). Similarly, a meal at Loya comprises set menus like Bemisaal (Rs 10,500) and Nayab (Rs 8,500), and even smaller portions like 2 Padao (Rs 4,000) and 3 Padao (Rs 4,500) are expensive. These heavy menus may also lead to food wastage (unless you decide to carry back home, with people at Loya eager to help).
The final connection
Just like the E-Class offers luxury and automotive technology without the ostentation of a Maybach, Loya celebrates a place where timeless techniques, old culinary traditions, and local ingredients are savoured. Maybe true luxury lies in the heritage you uncover – be it a car or a restaurant.
(‘Power plates’ is a new column in which we travel to unique restaurants, connecting the flavour with the car.)
