Faith

The battle for Munlom The indigenous religion of the Lepchas is close to extinction Tashi Tobgyal   Known for its vibrant culture of Lamaism and a compassion for emigrants, there’s much more to Sikkim than Buddhism. Today, in spite of a rich heritage that dates back to more than four centuries, this land of rice is just an evolutionary shadow of Tibet in popular perception. But this Corner Country of India has an unmistakable native charm of its own shadow. But four centuries ago, things were different. Legend has it that the Lepchas were born at the foothills of the Kanchenjunga, a revered mountain deity. Anthropologists, however, classify them as immigrants who moved southwards from China centuries ago. Some of them, research suggests, reached Sikkim and Nepal, and the land was showered with the blessings of “Takbo Thingum”, the lord of the Lepchas. With patronage from an organised society, Munlom, the faith, flourished in the region. Soon Demadzong, as it is natively called, started spreading, with sorcerers (the men were called Bongthing Yaba and the women Bongthing Yama) touring the land, treating the sick with the help of Astachyo, their holy scripture. Sustenance was simple and the mysterious depths of the surrounding forests became their heritage. Nobody has seen the Astachyo though. But in Keocheopalri, I met Aku Patti Bonthing, a woodcutter yaba who gave me a bunch of sulphorous paper, saying that it was a copy of the Astachyo. Impoverished, yet sporting a shy smile, he translated a number of stories to me, including that of Takbo and the battle of the Muns, and of the vanquishing of Chugemung, the master of darkness. Legend has it that the Yabas and the Bongthings formed an army to fend off aliens giving a bad name to their faith. Effigies of animals and beasts formed the centre of worship and rituals — christened animistic by present day research. However, the rituals are devoid of much flamboyance. Also, alcohol is an important ingredient in all the rituals. Some Bongthings also use Vajras at the time of performing rituals. The Bongthings initiates the rituals in an inebriated state because they believe this position opens the doors for the ancestors and the spirits to read the soul. The Bongthings also chant sutras to cure diseases — a practice similar to the present-day faith healing. The Yaba and the Yamas are also a library of ancient folklore, some of which is attributed to the Chinese. As bards, they have helped the heritage live through centuries. While the majority of the Lepchas have turned either to the Cross or to the Lamas, a small fraction still continues to adhere to the depths of their folklores. Much of the jungles today are extinct, but for these aboriginals, it is still the deepest truth. Indeed, a new battle for Munlom has just begun.

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