Before 1990, when militancy began in the Valley, about 30,000 to 35,000 pilgrims, most of them from within the state, would visit the Amarnath cave.

Later, the violence eroded the numbers, but that was only until the insurgents threatened to disrupt the pilgrimage. The turning point came around the middle of the decade, when some pilgrims were killed on the route to Amarnath. Hindu religious bodies all over thecountry decided to take up the challenge of the militants and the number of pilgrims increased dramatically.

But tragedy struck in 1996. The weather wrecked havoc and hundreds of pilgrims (out of the year's muster of 65,000) lost their lives. The government constituted the Sengupta Inquiry Commission to examine safety on the Amarnath trail. Its recommendations included the opening of an alternative route through Baltal, which is comparatively short but steep, and the registration of pilgrims to give the government some idea of the numbers it was dealing with. The government was also asked to provide security and facilities on the pilgrim trail, which again resulted in a jump in traffic.

Despite fears that Kargil would bring the numbers crashing down this year, the response of the pilgrims has been far beyond expectation. Three days (July 12-14) after registration was opened, about 18,000 pilgrims from all over the country had signed up at the eight counters opened in different cities by the Jammu andKashmir Tourism department. According to S.S. Bhalla, Director, State Tourism, the rush is likely to increase in the days to come.

The first darshans of the ice Shivlingam in the Amarnath cave will be performed on Purnima, July 28. The final darshan is due on August 26.The traditional route for the yatra is Pahalgam-Chandanwari (2895 mtr)-Pissu Ghati (3377 mtr)-Sheshnag (3352 mtr)-Poshpathri (4114 mtr)-Mahagunas Top (4276 mtr)-Panjtarni (3657 mtr). The alternative route through Baltal is unlikely to be opened this year because of its proximity to the Zojila Pass and Drass.

The holy cave is 48.5 km from Pahalgam. The first stop is Charri Mubarak, where the pilgrims kit themselves out, then carry on to picturesque Chandanwari (which can also be reached by taxi). Beyond this point, the trek becomes risky. The next stop is on the right bank of Sheshnag Lake. About 29 km from Pahalgam, this lake finds mention in the Nilmat Purana. Looking down on the deep, blue waters of the lake is the Kohinoor glacier (5,181mtr), resembling the hood of a cobra. Most of the yatris spend the night at Sheshnag. Volunteer organisation run langars here and provide tents.

Panchtarni, named for the five streams that course through this highland valley, is reached through the Mahagunas Pass, the highest point on the route. The cave is only 6 km further on and after crossing a narrow mountain pass, the track descends to the banks of the Amar Ganga. The devotees take a dip in the chill waters and smear themselves with Amarbhoot, a white substance made of calcium chloride and sulphate. Amarbhoot is the symbol of Amareshwar, the Lord of immortality.

Inside the cave -- about 15 metres in length, 17 metres in breadth and 14 metres high at the centre -- the yatris have darshan of the Shivlingam. The natural ice-lingam waxes and wanes with the changing phases of the moon.

Alongside are two ice-lingams representing Parvati and Ganesha. According to legend, Lord Shiva narrated the Amar Katha (secret of creation) to his consort Parvati atthis cave. Parvati fell asleep during the discourse but a couple of pigeons which were also in the cave heard the whole Katha and became immortal. Even today, when the snows and the intense cold send all other birds to more hospitable climes, these pigeons are in attendance during the pilgrimage.

A part of the offerings at Amarnath cave go to the Muslim Malik sect, making it a unique symbol of the communal amity and secularism which prevailed in Kashmir down the ages. In fact, this holy cave was discovered by a Muslim shepherd of the Malik sect.

The arrangements for this year's yatra, which begins the day after tomorrow, are almost complete. The state government requires all pilgrims to register themselves before they start on the trek to ensure that it is safer than at any time in the past.