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Wednesday, March 10, 1999

Monumental neglect

 
The explicit and mesmerising friezes at Khajuraho's temples have always been something of an enigma to historians. Largely clueless about the symbolism and sexual imagery characterising this treasure trove of architectural and sculptural excellence, they have tended towards a discreet silence -- and Khajuraho has over the years sadly been relegated to the sex-tourism industry.

Hopefully, the year-long millennium bash flagged off by President K.R. Narayanan this weekend will rectify this by demystifying the erotica and inspiring fresh academic inquiry. Hopefully, the impressive litany of CD-ROMs, poetry anthologies and star-studded performances will lead to an enduring interest in these fascinating motifs. And hopefully, the Archaeological Survey of India's statement of intent to undertake a more holistic preservation effort at Khajuraho will not remain just so many words piously mouthed at an anniversary extravaganza.

But even as Khajuraho is finally accorded centrestage, the country must ponder over itsturn-of-the-millennium record in preserving and appreciating its cultural heritage. For a country that boasts of an ancient civilisation, India is woefully apathetic towards its rich legacy. Just a casual stroll down any Indian city's monument-dotted roads and alleyways would provide ample evidence of this -- evidence that is merely mirrored across the countryside. And the apathy exists at all levels.

The ave- rage denizen or tourist is inexplicably moved by a ``Kilroy was here'' spirit the moment he enters a remotely awe-inspiring structure and immediately gives in to the impulse to scrawl his signature for posterity.

That is, when he is not too busy attempting the loudest echo of his life, with not a thought about the implied vandalisation of the monument. But then, why blame the common man? After all, a hushed respect in centuries-old buildings is rather difficult to muster when in the name of maintenance they share a distinct sameness -- distinctly similar (as too incongruous) coats of paint, colourediron railings and red paan splotches. Indeed, the visitor's eerie sense of deja vu has more to do with this modern-day uniformity than with any mystical association with the past.

For all the talk of looking ahead, the authorities would do well to pause and glance back. Piece-meal, isolated restoration work has to be replaced by a holistic preservation programme. This calls for greater interaction with historians and city planners alike so that even as monuments retain -- or are imbued with, as the case may be -- a whiff of the past, they don't stand out as exotic islands in an urban jungle and instead form an integral part of the environs.

So while Khajuraho gives a new, welcome spin to millennium fever, there is an urgent need to focus on the country's numerous heritage sites.

Admittedly, they may not be as ancient, but given the combined onslaught of encroachments, pollution and neglect, they really may not survive ten whole centuries to win an entitlement to a glorious rehabilitationfeast.

Copyright © 1999 Indian Express Newspapers (Bombay) Ltd.


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