History with a Latin flavour

San Juan lives and breathes tourism, welcoming thousands of cruise tourists every day

INDER RAJ AHLUWALIA

The buzz in the air while in the air sets the tone and explains it all. The flight from Miami to San Juan was packed as always. As always, there was lots of hand and head shaking and non-stop chatter that typically meant nothing.

Old San Juan leaps straight from the pages of history books and sports true Latin flavour. Shift Spain into a tropical setting, put in rum-swigging parlours and loud live music, and what you get is the spirit of the south.

That’s San Juan for you. Originally conceived as a military stronghold, this 475-year-old neighbourhood today lives and breathes tourism, welcoming thousands of daily cruise tourists who board ship after the customary shopping, drinking, dining and lazing around.

With the buildings a happy jumble of old colonial styles nudging modern ones, and the streets paved with cobbles of adoquine, a leisurely foot tour is ideal for seeing the town. Or, take a ferry harbour cruise, passing local landmarks like Casa Blanca, the City Hall, EI Morro Fortress, the Advana Federal, San Juan Gate and La Forteleza.

Fascinating art galleries, shops and cafes grace the historic district with its Gothic cathedrals, massive 16th century forts, towers, concert halls, lively casinos and acclaimed restaurants. There are designer boutiques, modern floor shows, and the celebrated, ‘must see’ restaurants of the Mesonas Gastronomics programme, a Puerto Rico tourism venture that recognises high quality in restaurants. The local project features a nightly LeLolai cultural festival at various hotels, with a buffet of local delicacies and an evening’s folklore ensemble.

With tourism came the shopping. Start anywhere, but serious shoppers should try Calle del Cristo for gold, disco jewellery and traditional crafts such as carved santos (small wooden figures of saints or religious scenes). The prices are mostly good.

We sailed at sunset. Ahead, the Caribbean was a pale gray, gradually turning black, while behind us the lights of San Juan twinkled like little stars in the galaxy. Our cruise would cover proverbial exotic destinations, we were told, “gems of the South Caribbean”. We braced ourselves for the party. And, it was quite a party, as Royal Caribbean is known to dish out.

We woke early, ready for the first bonanza. Weaving our way past several ships, we docked and disembarked into a world of green foliage and laughter.

A dozen ships bringing thousands of tourists and their cameras from the world over to the island means lots of hustle and bustle. And so it was.

World class dining and exciting night life, some of the Caribbean’s most spectacular views and 40 beautiful beaches combine to make St Thomas my pick of the world’s cruise stop-overs. Though National Geographic magazine has rated the local Magens Bay among the world’s 10 most beautiful beaches, the entire island, with its picturesque harbour, lush green foliage and colourful flowers, lends itself to great natural beauty. With its little waterfront restaurants and quaint shopping arcades that offer some of the Caribbean’s best deals for leather goods, cameras and jewellery, downtown Charlotte Amalie pulls the crowds.

While in the downtown, don’t miss climbing the 99 steps up for a truly stunning view of Charlotte Amalie Harbour. We took the much-touted, rather shaky drive up to the ‘Mountain Top’, birthplace of the world famous banana daiquiri. On a more sedate note, we learnt the island’s history in the museum at Fort Christian before visiting the synagogue.

The next morning brought another delight. St Martin is a dual-nationality island, co-owned by the Netherlands and France. While casinos animate the night life on the Dutch side, the French part features great cuisine and trendy hotels with more discreet entertainment. Small, stylish, trendy and welcoming with its fine shopping and bistros is Philipsburg, the capital.

Nature has worked wonders on such a small territory. Creating a picture book scenario are coral reefs, some 38 white sand beaches, small pearl like islands, and the famous multi-toned grape vines that are a local feature.

The end result is total, almost heady relaxation.

“Lush garden” is how Columbus described St Croix when he discovered it over 500 years ago. Today, sugar sand shores, crystal blue waters and rolling green hillsides provide clinching evidence to support his claim.

From the calm waters surrounding Buck Island Reef to emerald green golf courses overlooking the Caribbean, from famed dining in chic restaurants to late night snacks at waterfront cafes, the “lush garden” has it all. Bike past historic great houses and stop for a refreshing drink at a beachside joint. Explore the island’s turquoise waters by sailboat, or go sword-fishing. It’s the done thing.

Sporting distinct 18th century Danish architecture and offering the most sumptuous seafood imaginable are Christiansted and Frederiksted, the island’s two waterfront towns. Christiansted’s ‘Jump Up’ and Frederiksted’s ‘Harbour Night’, held at various times yearly, invite visitors to shop while local bands belt out their stuff and partygoers frolic in the streets alongside Mocko Jumbie stilt dancers as they dance away the evil spirits.

It’s one big carnival, very lively, very Caribbean in spirit...